Thread: Draw boring a Mortise and Tenon Joint.

Originally Posted by Mychael

I've just been watching some youtube clips demonstrating draw boring to tighten up a mortise and tenon joint.
I noticed that the dowel pins they were using were also handmade, is this a requirment to have it work or could it be done useing modern dowel? I was thnking mutli-groove to better take the glue.

Mychael

I don't think it matters what you use. Hand made dowels are normally used so the timber matches, but equally it can be so the timber contrasts. Ready made dowels are very limited in types of timber available.

It is also my impression that the grooves are to let glue escape rather than increase the holding power. The old method before fluted or grooved dowels were available was to plane a very slight flat on one side. This achieved the same relieving of glue pressure.

Remember the holes in the tenon and the mortice are deliberately drilled out of alignment to pull the joint together.

Regards
Paul

I have done draw boring only once and that was just so that I could try it out.

My understanding is to have the wall of the pin smooth to stop the groves being crushed by the side walls when the two items come together.

As there is extra length this get cut off and then sanded or planed flushed with the surface. I would not want to see the grooves at the end of the piece. Others may have different thoughts?

Thanks. I just want to have a bit of a play. See how I go at it, might be a project for the next bench.

The dowels are rived to ensure that the grain is straight. Otherwise they are at risk of snapping.

Some argue for straight dowels/pins, which is probably a modern derivation, as traditionally the pegs were tapered.

Pictorial of drawboring using a rived and shopmade dowel/peg: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Drawboring.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

I usualy use a smooth straight pin but just put a slight chamfer on the end so it can make a smooth transition through the tenon. My draw bore pin is an old sharpening steel, does the job.

Great link. thanks Derek.

Originally Posted by derekcohen

The dowels are rived to ensure that the grain is straight. Otherwise they are at risk of snapping.

Some argue for straight dowels/pins, which is probably a modern derivation, as traditionally the pegs were tapered.

Pictorial of drawboring using a rived and shopmade dowel/peg: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Drawboring.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

The traditional method uses tapered pegs which completely fill the holes. I put up some info here and here which may or may not be of interest to you.

That was interesting reading. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Woodwould

The traditional method uses tapered pegs which completely fill the holes. I put up some info here and here which may or may not be of interest to you.