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  1. #1
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    Default Drawer Stops Solution

    I have just made a new work bench with two-way drawers, so they open from either side of the bench.

    Any bright ideas on how to make drawer stops? I have thought of a couple of possibilities, including recessed ball catches, but thought it wise to tap into the brains trust to see what ideas more experienced people have.

    Thanks,

    John
    Last edited by John Samuel; 23rd August 2012 at 03:12 PM. Reason: Can't spell

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Put a block at the end of each runner (Both sides). Then put a screw from inside the draw side to just on the outside (ideally centred from front to back). It should then catch on the stop blocks at either end.
    Or drill a hole and push a wooden dowel thru to the outside of the draw.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Sounds like a tough one. I don't have an answer for you YET!!
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  5. #4
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    I think I've got one for you.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  6. #5
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    This is the concept. I would use 2 per drawer.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  7. #6
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    Wongo
    how would that work?
    When you pull the drawer from the opposite side, the front would not go past the stop

    I would put the stops at 2 different levels.
    Bottom stop works for one end and top stop works for the other.

    Cheers
    Wolffie
    Every day is better than yesterday

    Cheers
    SAISAY

  8. #7
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    Default Sorry guys ...

    I am such a novice I can't even get the terminology right.

    Stopping the drawers from coming out of the carcass was the easy part.

    What I am trying to do is to have some sort of stop that tells me the drawer is fully closed, so both fronts are flush with the carcass.

    Here is a pic showing the construction method. The drawers sit on timber runners, and even loaded are not difficult to slide.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wolffie View Post
    Wongo
    how would that work?
    When you pull the drawer from the opposite side, the front would not go past the stop

    I would put the stops at 2 different levels.
    Bottom stop works for one end and top stop works for the other.

    Cheers
    Wolffie

    Did I not say the stop could move freely from one end to the other, between the 2 lines marked "Stop here"?

    C'mon guys its time to upgrade your imagination.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    I am such a novice I can't even get the terminology right.

    Stopping the drawers from coming out of the carcass was the easy part.

    What I am trying to do is to have some sort of stop that tells me the drawer is fully closed, so both fronts are flush with the carcass.

    Here is a pic showing the construction method. The drawers sit on timber runners, and even loaded are not difficult to slide.
    Its my fault. I didn't read your question properly. Anyway I had funny working out the solution you didn't ask for. Sorly!!
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  11. #10
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by John Samuel View Post
    I am such a novice I can't even get the terminology right.

    Stopping the drawers from coming out of the carcass was the easy part.

    What I am trying to do is to have some sort of stop that tells me the drawer is fully closed, so both fronts are flush with the carcass.

    Here is a pic showing the construction method. The drawers sit on timber runners, and even loaded are not difficult to slide.
    Ball latch at 90deg registering in latch striker on side of draw
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    Did I not say the stop could move freely from one end to the other, between the 2 lines marked "Stop here"?

    C'mon guys its time to upgrade your imagination.
    Sorry, your drawing confused me
    Cheers
    Wolffie
    Every day is better than yesterday

    Cheers
    SAISAY

  13. #12
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    Default Ball Catch

    Thanks, rwbuild.

    That is the solution I arrived at too. I was wondering if there was a better way.

    Cheerio,

    John

  14. #13
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    Just a question Johny. Why is it so important to have something to tell you that the drawers are fully closed? To me it is far more important to something to stop them from falling off.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  15. #14
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    Default My shin hurts

    Wongo,

    When I finished the drawers I put some lube on the runners and when I went to push a drawer closed for the first time the front I pushed disappeared into the carcass. Even after I loaded the drawers, when I push them closed one side or the other tends to stick out.

    Also, until now everything in my workshop got covered with dust. The drawers in this axillary bench (which is lower because it is primarily used for assembly) mean that my tools, screws etc will stay clean. I am so impressed by their effectiveness I am about to build 2 big drawers and an enclosed cupboard under the main bench. My grandfather said, "not open shelves for tools; drawers or enclosed cupboards." he was right.

    Mate, I want to do two things ... keep my tools and bits and pieces clean ... but more importantly I want to not bash my shins on a drawer as I walk around the bench carrying a panel (did that the day I finished the job). I have never been accused of being neat, but it is nice to have my bits and pieces not covered in dust, and my shins intact. To do both well, I'd like the drawers to "click" closed rather than disappear halfway into the carcass or to stop still protruding three inches.

    By the way, in the pic posted earlier you will see that under the bench is my spraying table. It is a dream. When spraying a cabinet, often the light is such that I can see the wet lap really well from one side but not the other. Because the spraying table is on castors, I can spray one end, give the table a couple of pushes with my foot and turn it through 180 degrees, so the cabinet is always oriented so I can easily see the film building and the wet lap. I do love it to death.

    Finally, I have tucked your idea away in the certain knowledge that it will come in handy one day. If I had thought about that for a month, your solution would never have occurred to me. Thanks.
    Last edited by John Samuel; 24th August 2012 at 11:04 PM. Reason: Oops!

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