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  1. #1
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    Question Drill Bit/Countersink/Counterbore Units

    Hi all,

    Has anybody used "Drill Bit/Countersink/Counterbore Units" such as the ones sold by Lee Valley (refer link below).

    <!--StartFragment -->http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,180,42240

    How well do the tapered drills match the tapered shank of timber screws? How successful are these units at countersinking in hard woods?

    I am planning to make some outdoor furniture out of Jarrah and I don't think the countersinks I've got at the moment, some cheapies from Bunnings, will cope all that well. They chatter like mad in hardwoods such as Tassie Oak and are often difficult to keep centred on the screw pilot hole.

    I was thinking that units such as these ones sold by Lee Valley might make my countersinking efforts a little more successful.

    Any comments as to the relative merits of these or any other countersinking alternatives would be gratefully accepted.

    Regards,
    Mirboo. <!--StartFragment -->

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  3. #2
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    Mirboo

    Yes mate I use them all the time Tassi oak no problems
    I got them to get a better finish close to the edge of small boxes with thin walls, now use one every time I put in a screw , Well op to 12 GaugeHave been using some septic ones from bunnies No. 6, 8 & 12, about 420 EACH
    this year however at the N'cle wood show got a set from carbi-tecco 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 & 12 FOR $25



    The trouble with life is there's no background music.





    Russell

  4. #3
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    Default

    Try your countersinker before drilling the pilot hole. Sometimes this works better.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  5. #4
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    Have got a generic set from carbetec at work. They work quite well and make it easy to drive a wood screw as the thread is cutting into the wood not trying to push wood out of the way for the shank. The set from Lee Vally look a lot better quality.
    Have a nice day - Cheers

  6. #5
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    I too have the Carbatec set. They are OK but not great. Sometimes the grub screws holding on the collar don't bite properly. Interestingly they are only single flute drill bits. Looks like the Veritas ones are too. I agree that the Veritas ones look better made.

  7. #6
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    Carbatec also have an up market set ( wi Fuller) with plug cutters but at $250 too pricy for what I need




    The trouble with life is there's no background music.


    Russell

  8. #7
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    Sydney
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    Post Thanks for the replies!

    Thanks everyone for your replies to my countersinking question.

    Today I had a few goes at doing the countersinking before drilling the pilot hole as per "rodm's" suggestion. I was drilling into Tassie Oak using my drill press and a single flute Sutton countersinker. I didn't have trouble with chatter but the countersinker did wander a bit, or rather, it pushed the wood which I was holding in my hand off line a bit. I think I'll try again with some different drill speeds or maybe I will have to clamp my work to the drill press table prior to each countersinking operation.

    It would seem from the replies of "Ashore", "Wood Butcher" and "Ecc" that "Drill Bit/Countersink/Counterbore Units" work OK. Now I just have to decide if I want to spend the money to get a set.

    Thanks again,
    Mirboo.

  9. #8
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    I have the set from lee valley and they are a joy to use.
    A perfect tapered hole and countersink/bore everytime. Yes the tapers fit the screws exactly.

    Only problem (and this goes for all the drill mounted countersinks I have seen) is that the countersink will block the 'flow' of wood up the drill flutes. This means the wood won't clear the hole as well and you may have to pull bits out from under the countersink.
    Great minds discuss ideas,
    average minds discuss events,
    small minds discuss people

  10. #9
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    Mirboo, are you "spotting" the hole location with a punch or similar, this may help the c'sink locate better. The other thing may be the cutting lip/s on the c'sink may be blunt, requiring more feed pressure than ideal.


    HTH..........cheers..............Sean


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

  11. #10
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    Redlands area, Brisbane
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    I haven't bought these myself. I have a set of untapered countersinks from Insty-Bit and these work well enough in all the timbers I've tried including Tassie Oak. They also have the added advantage of being hex quick change.

    In theory tapered drill holes will work better but in practice with some wax on the screw thread, you will not notice the difference provided you have used the right hole size for the screw size. See this link for a chart of the correct drill and screw sizes. One other tip, buy square drive screws and the correct driver. They really do work better.

    One thing worth shelling out for are the tapered plug cutters from Veritas. They work extremely well and are much more reliable at plugging the countersink holes tightly.

  12. #11
    Join Date
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    If you want to get serious about screwing and screws and associated counterborers go to the Sachy Robertson web site:

    http://sachys-robertson.com.au/index.html

    Once you have used them you won't be bothered with anything else.
    Perhaps it is better to be irresponsible and right, than to be responsible and wrong.
    Winston Churchill

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Sydney
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    590

    Thumbs up

    Hi all,

    Instead of the set of "Drill Bit/Countersink/Counterbore Units" discussed earlier in this thread I decided to order the countersink unit shown below.

    http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...240,42281&ap=1

    The unit arrived in today's post. It is made by the Beall Tool Company in the USA.

    Have not yet tried it out on anything harder than Tassie Oak but I can already tell you it works better than any other countersink units I own. In Tassie Oak I was able to produce nice clean tapered holes that were centred on the pre-drilled screw pilot hole. The unit produced no chatter and did not wander. Although it is still early days, I am very happy with the unit so far.

    Regards,
    Mirboo.

  14. #13
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    Mirboo They look like a top set
    The only prob I have found with countersink units like that I sometimes go a little too deep and dont get a flush finish
    If you hold the screw up against the unit and draw a felt pen line I have found I get a better idea of when to stop
    Glad however you got a good result


    The trouble with life is there's no background music.



    Ashore

  15. #14
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    I bought the Carbatec cheapies not long ago, & concur that the grub screws don't hold the countersink/counterbore on properly, on anything harder than pine anyway.

    Part of the issue I think is that the countersink cutting edges don't seem to have much relief behind them, and consequently don't cut very well, which probably causes the slippage.

    Intend to try sharpening them with better relief and see how they go then.


    Cheers.............Sean, blessed relief


    The beatings will continue until morale improves.

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