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25th June 2009, 10:28 PM #16
Good idea! Here's one. But... How do you check you've mounted it perpendicular to the bit? And what happens when you use the back end of the drill to tap screws in? And can you guarantee that your workpiece is level both ways? Something to think on...
Cheers, Richard
"... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.
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25th June 2009 10:28 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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25th June 2009, 11:04 PM #17
It's sort of a chicken or the egg problem, of course. First, you need a hole already square to a surface, to hold a large/stout rod (approx. maximum chuck capacity), to clamp in the chuck. Attach the bubble level with hot-melt or such. Drill some test holes, insert the rod, check for square both ways. Persuade it to plumb by fine-tuning adjustment hammer. And repeat as necessary.
Use the drill's handle to apply pressure, instead of hammering its butt.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
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25th June 2009, 11:10 PM #18
Could you attach or clamp a long bit (in the chuck) to a spirit level, line up the bubble level on the back of the drill, and glue in place? May have to rotate bit to check level in all directions.
Tex
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25th June 2009, 11:10 PM #19
Thanks Joe, makes more sense now. And I'll try not to use the drill butt as a hammer...
Cheers, Richard
"... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.
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25th June 2009, 11:33 PM #20
I used the plunge router method. But if you think about it, there isn't any requirement for the holes to be perfectly perpendicular unless you are intending to use two dogs against the same flat surface of the workpiece you are clamping. If using one dog only against any one surface of the workpiece, the dog can be approximately 90 degrees and work fine.
"If something is really worth doing, it is worth doing badly." - GK Chesterton
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25th June 2009, 11:36 PM #21
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26th June 2009, 09:37 AM #22Senior Member
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It's pretty clear people have given this some thought!
I do plan to use more than one dog hole in unison to clamp table tops etc.. so i do need some accuracy i think.
I also need to attach an end vice to the bench. I'm going to use the "construction" type where you add your own wooden jaws front and back. To attach the rear jaw i'll be drilling into the end of my bench, and also drilling up from the bottom to intersect, and use bolts with those "sideways" nuts... i know thats not the right name for them but cant think of the correct term. When I do this I'm definitely going to need to be accurate.
And the one thing building my bench taught me is that i'm NOT great at eye-balling things. I had to chisel out the counter-sunk holes I drilled for the nuts to fit on the thread rods. As I had to drill the counter-sink and then drill through from the other side of the leg... they weren't coming through on centre... rather a annoying.
So with that lesson learnt, and the prospect of future accuracy required, I dont think eye-balling will be the go.... so i might just bit the bullet and buy the contraption.
I'm sure in years to come it will get used again and I'll be glad I have a simple solution. And I do have a designated "tool fund" that can cope with the purchase.
I think i'll also get some of those levels for my drill as well for free-hand work. They look like they'd be very handy.
Thank you all for advice and thank you to Peter and Richard for your offers of equipment.
Tom
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26th June 2009, 09:59 PM #23
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26th June 2009, 10:05 PM #24
Like that little magnetic level I bought "cos it'll be useful one day"....
Cheers, Richard
"... work to a standard rather than a deadline ..." Ticky, forum member.
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27th June 2009, 12:43 AM #25In pursuit of excellence
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For a similar purpose (dog holes for a timber rack), I got one of the jigs like Richard has in post #14. There are lots of different cheap variants around, mine was around the $30 dollar mark and it was money very well spent. They are exceedingly handy for drilling a uniform hole in something you can't get onto your drill press (if you have a press that is). If you don't have a drill press then they are required buying IMHO.
In your situation I'd use one of these style of jigs, and a decent spade bit as suggested by other posters.
Cheers,
Justin.
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27th June 2009, 08:22 PM #26Member
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When I drilled my dog holes, I used an auger bit rather than a spade bit or Forstner. Auger bit works so much better than a spade bit and so much quicker.
I'm not so sure that you need to be overly worried about vertical accuracy. I initially used my drill press to drill a 19mm hole into a block of hardwood about 75mm thick so I could clamp the block to the bench top and use it as a guide where I wanted to drill the dog hole. That kept it nice & vertical but then after a few holes, I just eyeballed one hole and found that I was able to drill a perfectly acceptable vertical hole without any guide at all. My bench dogs work very well despite no guide.A camel can work for a week without drinking. I can drink for a week without working. Not original, but I'm happy.
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