Thread: Driveway gate, sizes, material and hinge type

Have a look at Accoya treated pine instead of the normal stuff, it's much more stable and doesn't have the nasty chemicals. You will need to use stainless fasteners though, the acetic treatment will destroy anything else.

I'd also consider either pegged or wedged mortise and tenons so you have mechanical holding power and not just glue.

I have called my local Accoya supplier. too expensive. I might as well go Cedar.

Just some things I think of when dreaming of more gates and fences.

Cedar is normally pretty pricey stuff as well .

The more you house woodwork like in a rebate for the fence the more it holds rubbish and moisture the faster that breaks down those areas .

If you could design a fence or gate where everything sat off each other piece but was some how fixed well you could have something that would last 100 years instead of 15

So a welded galvanized gate with the fill in boards added but fixed with spacers so the boards sit off the frame a little would be good I think .

$3000 for three gates frames. That sounds pricey ! steel is cheap and welding is fast . But its could have to do with hinges and fittings . Delivery as well maybe ?

If you go just the timber , its got to be good joinery . The bracing and direction of that and how it relates to the hinges is important . Another most important thing I think is how the ends that the gates hang off are done . Just a post each end going down some standard depth is always a silly idea . They sag and the gates start rubbing in the center. You need either an end assembly which cant allow sagging . They take up space . like 2.4 each side of a gate . Or I like tall posts with a cross piece going across the top to each post. Or you put the post down twice normal depth, what ever that is ? like 1.2 meters and concrete. I still reckon they can sag though .

Ill never forget having to dig out two front gate posts by hand and get the concrete out of the holes after the ones I paid to have put in lasted 10 to 15 years. Flaming hard work, For someone used to a indoors workshop with a radio .

Rob

Originally Posted by Albert

For gate, double swing manual gate, opening 3.5m -3.8m
I have approached a local welder for the gate frame to be made in steel. the cost is $3,000 for driveway and pedestrian gate.

find another welder. A friend recently commissioned a welded steel gate -- prices varied from $2,000 to $300. He went with the $300 version. The $2000+ version was priced on the basis "anyone living at your address can afford to spend $2000 on a gate" so shop around some more. You might also consider powder coating the steel.

I try to get this look.

0000083_henley-h2-flat-top-wooden-driveway-gate-pairs.jpeg

similar to this but with timber running horizontally.

as Auscab said, BRACING is critically important.
I'd be somewhat inclined to use 3 layers of marine ply for the frame (makes bridle and M&T joints a cinch) and nail or screw the slats to the frame.

Originally Posted by auscab

Just some things I think of when dreaming of more gates and fences.

Cedar is normally pretty pricey stuff as well .

The more you house woodwork like in a rebate for the fence the more it holds rubbish and moisture the faster that breaks down those areas .

If you could design a fence or gate where everything sat off each other piece but was some how fixed well you could have something that would last 100 years instead of 15

So a welded galvanized gate with the fill in boards added but fixed with spacers so the boards sit off the frame a little would be good I think .

$3000 for three gates frames. That sounds pricey ! steel is cheap and welding is fast . But its could have to do with hinges and fittings . Delivery as well maybe ?

If you go just the timber , its got to be good joinery . The bracing and direction of that and how it relates to the hinges is important . Another most important thing I think is how the ends that the gates hang off are done . Just a post each end going down some standard depth is always a silly idea . They sag and the gates start rubbing in the center. You need either an end assembly which cant allow sagging . They take up space . like 2.4 each side of a gate . Or I like tall posts with a cross piece going across the top to each post. Or you put the post down twice normal depth, what ever that is ? like 1.2 meters and concrete. I still reckon they can sag though .

Ill never forget having to dig out two front gate posts by hand and get the concrete out of the holes after the ones I paid to have put in lasted 10 to 15 years. Flaming hard work, For someone used to a indoors workshop with a radio .

Rob

Thank you Rob, all valid points! the foundation for the post at the moment is 1000mm deep, 300mm x 300mm. I think that is deep and big enough if its a light gate.. the plan was to use 2m long post, and 1 m foundation, to me, the ideal foundation should be the same length as whats above ground especially when its holding weight such as the gate.

Looking at the material cost and galanising cost, its close to $1000 alone, I am very tempted to buy a welding setup to do the welding myself to save $1000 worth of labour... did some metal work in my teens so just need to practice a bit to pick it up.

Originally Posted by ian

find another welder. A friend recently commissioned a welded steel gate -- prices varied from $2,000 to $300. He went with the $300 version. The $2000+ version was priced on the basis "anyone living at your address can afford to spend $2000 on a gate" so shop around some more. You might also consider powder coating the steel.


as Auscab said, BRACING is critically important.
I'd be somewhat inclined to use 3 layers of marine ply for the frame (makes bridle and M&T joints a cinch) and nail or screw the slats to the frame.

Agreed. the welder I have used is not cheap but he does good work. Timber gate needs to be braced well and properly, probably same cost as a welded steel gate if contracted out, and I am not sure if I have the time for that, it will be a busy month.

You can buy steel gate frames from bunnings. No need to find a welder
https://www.bunnings.co.nz/search/pr...directFrom=Any

Originally Posted by auscab

Or I like tall posts with a cross piece going across the top to each post. Or you put the post down twice normal depth, what ever that is ? like 1.2 meters and concrete. I still reckon they can sag though .

Ill never forget having to dig out two front gate posts by hand and get the concrete out of the holes after the ones I paid to have put in lasted 10 to 15 years. Flaming hard work, For someone used to a indoors workshop with a radio .

Rob

While I agree with most of Rob's post, I would stay away from filling post holes with concrete. It does no more than thicken the post underground but it does nothing for the surrounding earth which supports it. I recommend you ram the earth with the blunt end of a crowbar. The post hole should be a minimum of 1 metre deep and deeper for posts >1500mm. Ram the base of the hole, insert the post and ram every 150mm of loose soil or clay as you fill the hole adjusting for plumb as you go. It takes a while but the result is worth the effort.

I apply anti-rot solution and bituminous paint to seal the subterranean section just for good measure.

mick

quick update.
At the end I decided to go with steel gate and steel column. the pedestrian gate was removed, various components sizes were reduced (65x3 shs instead of 75x3 shs frame) and I will do the spray painting, the process has made the price come all the way down from $3k to an acceptable $1400.