Thread: How to finish this table

I am going to pose a different view point. I can relate how you want this to look as new as the day it was purchased. How about just patching up the large holes with epoxy and finish it almost rustic. I have a very small coffee table in front of a futon that used to be a table. Heaps of scratches and two holes on the side that I left.

A belt sander will work and you will need to get rid of the belt sander marks after that with either a ROS or hand sanding.

Hand sanding is a lot more work.

If you're deadset on cleaning it up and refinishing, I'd get into it with a random orbit sander on max speed, with 60 grit paper. Once you've got all the marks out, work your way through the grits up to about 400.

Trav

So are you saying that a belt sander will create just as much work as I am trying to avoid?
I have never used a ROS, is this going to be more effective than my old sander? It can't be any worse

I had not really considered leaving it asis, I was just working down the path of getting a nice smooth finish. I'll have to think about that and have another look at it.

I made a coffee table from a very old school desk - think 100 year old long bench - and did pretty much as suggested above. Used the best side as the top, planed & sanded to make it flat, and the other side, with kids initials etc carved into it, just lightly sanded, so the history is still there. I finished with polyurethane, nowadays I'd probably use wipe-on poly or oil.
Coffee table - Australian cedar, NG rosewood.jpg

Originally Posted by michaellxv

So are you saying that a belt sander will create just as much work as I am trying to avoid?
I have never used a ROS, is this going to be more effective than my old sander? It can't be any worse

I had not really considered leaving it asis, I was just working down the path of getting a nice smooth finish. I'll have to think about that and have another look at it.

The easiest way to get a new, flat, smooth surface is with a drum sander. There must be a forum member close to you who has one and who would help out. It is a two minute job. Alternately, find a local cabinetmaker and see if he will do it for a few bucks.

Alternately, a belt sander is a reasonably fast way to remove material. To keep it flat, start by sanding at 45 degrees to the grain in both directions and finish sanding along the grain. You non't need anything more aggressive than 120 grit paper. My belt sander has a frame that helps to keep it flat and to prevent one edge "digging in".

In any event it will need finish sanding, by hand or with a ROS. The older 1/3 sheet orbital sanders are nowhere near as effective as modern RO Sanders. Once you own a ROS, you will wonder how you survived without one. I seldom use a ROS for bulk material removal because it can be difficult to keep the surface flat.

Another technique I used for table tops before I had a drum sander was to get a lump of steel about 6 by 12-18 inches and nearly one inch thick. Put cork or rubber on one side and clamp or glue a piece of sandpaper over that. Then attach ropes to the clamps and pull this weight back and forth along the grain. It takes a little time, but you will flatten the surface nicely. I finished a 5 ft by 5 ft table using that method, (with SWMBO on one piece of rope and me on the other) and it took an hour or so.

Start by steaming as many dents and scratches as you can using a water soaked rag and an iron (do not burn yourself. Steam burns are nasty.)

As with any tool, practice makes perfect. My preferred method would be the belt sander starting with 80 grit. Don't be afraid to work across the grain either, then with the grain. As John Samuel nominates, 120 with the grain would be your best bet for final sand. Regardless of grit, always work systematically and don't use excessive pressure (this will then avoid deep scratches). 240 grit and above are a waste of time IMO when using a belter.

A cabinet scraper will give best results to finish off. I acknowledge ROS's are handy tools, but I'm personally not a fan. Remember that any sanding or sander tears/scratches the grain regardless of grit and incorrect use of ROS's can leave pigtails on your work surface. Scrapers will give a more superior finish if burnished correctly.

Wipe with thinners or meths on a rag towards the final stages to reveal any sanding scratches that are still present.

Craig.

Originally Posted by CMB

A cabinet scraper will give best results to finish off. I acknowledge ROS's are handy tools, but I'm personally not a fan. Remember that any sanding or sander tears/scratches the grain regardless of grit and incorrect use of ROS's can leave pigtails on your work surface. Scrapers will give a more superior finish if burnished correctly.
Craig.

Craig, I'd agree with you if you were talking about Orbital Sanders, they are notorious for leaving "pig tails", but a quality ROS with proper use just doesn't. I couldn't live without my ROS's

Regards,

Rob

Rob, I wasn't suggesting they are not a useful tool. Your comment regarding leaving pigtails, "a quality ROS with proper use just doesn't" is not that dissimilar to my comment "incorrect use of ROS's can leave pigtails". I have used many brands for many hours and can vouch for their purpose and ability.

michaellxv's comment "I have never used a ROS" suggests that he does not own one. Based on a saying I like to use "the tool does not maketh the craftsman", my advice to michaellxv would be simply not to rush out and purchase a ROS when there are alternatives. Having said that, michaellxv make be fortunate enough to have a big fat bank account and be more than willing to rush out a pick up a top brand ROS. With a little practice he'll get great results like yourself.

Crafting by hand can be much more rewarding to some than hanging of the end of a powered tool and it should never be underestimated what can be achieved with what we already have in our workshops or can otherwise purchase with minimal outlay. I have many machines and powered/unpowered tools but no ROS, and have created many high finish items for myself and others.

I personally don't see the need have one up high on my must have list but that is just me, and each to their own.

Good luck with your project michaellxv however you decide to go about it.

Craig.

Thankyou all for your suggestions.

I have just another look at it and i'm warming to the idea of flipping it over and using the old bottom as the top. This side is reasonably smooth and would just need a finishing sand. While I have probably removed quite a bit from the old top I think there is a long way to go to completely remove evidence of all the cuts on the surface. These are not what I consider character cuts as there are no initials or clever grafiti it is just cuts across the grain. Hidden underneath is probably the beat place for them.

On the subject of my one and only sander. No I don't have an overflowing bank account so like everyone else I will hasten slowly in the purchase of a new sander. However after close inspection of the sander this is something I probably need to do. My poor 20+ year old B&D (actually made in England) has seen better days depsite the fact that it still runs, the padding on the base being no longer flat and no longer present in the corners.

IMAG0084_2.jpg

Michael

P.S. Craftsman would be too strong a word to describe my skills.

Hi Michaell,
Have a look here or here. Either will save you hours of work.

Regards,

Rob

A belt sander has been mentioned,BE VERY CAREFUL as these beasts can cause you more work than you started with,if you have never used one IMO don't, use a ROS instead.
The idea of turning the top over sounds a lot better and a lot less work,but having a distressed look can be ok to.
Good luck whatever you do

Would a hand plane work?

Originally Posted by code4pay

Would a hand plane work?

Yes, but only if you are a glutton for punishment. The boards are joined which would make it difficult to keep the job flat.

Originally Posted by code4pay

Would a hand plane work?

yes definitely IF
the plane is a #5, #6 or #7,
the plane is properly fettled
the blade is sharper than razor sharp
you have a sturdy bench to work on (and I mean sturdy as in no wobbles when planing)
and you know how to use the plane
the task would be completed very quickly


If you're thinking of going into the Green shed and buying one of the planes packaged in heat sealed plastic -- you will probably spend more time and dollars fettling the plane and getting the blade sharp than you would buying and using a mid range ROS