Thread: Dumb Countersinker

Of course!!! Great idea Termite. A greenie for you.

um, so you counter sink first then drill your hole do you?

ooook

I didn't know that either.

Ben.

Ps. my counter-sinkererer works fine if you drill first. Thats my excuse.

Termite - are you using your metal-working counter-sink? The thingy with multiple cutting edges? 'Cause if you are, I had the same problem until some years back, when I switched to the el cheapo hardware store sinks with the single cutting edge. No more chatter in pre-drilled holes. The down side is that if you don't change back to predrilling harder woods for whatever reason (see, you're not the only lazy w'w'r on this BB!), these things don't like it at all - they take a lot of pressure and are apt to go wandering off centre if you're free-handing. Some of the problem is that they're made of pretty soft stuff, and don't hold a very sharp edge. I'm still waiting for the perfect counter-sink to come along!
Cheers,

I'm still waiting for the perfect counter-sink to come along!

I thought I had one. Just set the clutch on the drill to it's "drill" setting, and let her rip till the screw head disappears!

No need to change bits or anything!

P

Originally Posted by bitingmidge

I thought I had one. Just set the clutch on the drill to it's "drill" setting, and let her rip till the screw head disappears!


P

Yeah Midge - No worries if your fixing penis radiata for plaster board.
Actually, I've never found the clutches on any drill I've had worth bothering with - mine stays on 'drill' 365 days a year. (Another symptom of the slack/lazy w'worker?). Until you develop a sensitive touch, setting screws can be a lot of fun - I'm getting there!!
Avagooday,

Yeah Midge - No worries if your fixing penis radiata for plaster board.

Ian, Is this a soft or hard wood?

Himzo.

Himzo - It's mostly soft.
That was a bit of a 'slip' - an old mate down in Vic, used to refer to it as that, and it always amused my small mind.
Being of a 'scientific' background, y'know....
Avagoodone,

If you want to get consistant countersinking without pre countersinking use a proper electric screwdriver with a nose cone the same as gyprock fixers use and use rib head countersunk screws similar to chipboard screws.

Wotsa countersink.
I thought ya just put in the screw til it was flush, then wacked it with a hammer, small hammer for softwood, big hamer for hardwood.

Am I doing it wrong?

I gave up on trying expensive bits, acyually too lazy, I just gouge it out with the phillips screwdriver bit, never thought of using an american screwdriver, thanks Outback. Big hammer eh?

Yeh that's it Hovo, mind you, to set a roofing tek screw into jarrah, we're talking sledge hammer big.

On a more serious note, has anyone tried these.

Countersink

Outback
With tha thing I'd have screws set in half an inch with a meteor around them. I'd have to use a cold chisel as a punch to use the sledge hammer on them,

Outback, I use a very simular bit to that one that was made for melalworking and it is great. Using either a hand drill, bench drill, corded or battery drill it dosent matter it works fine. The main key is my attention to detail in setting it up and keeping the speed slow. The one I have is made to handel soft metals such as ally so I reasoned that it would work in wood.

Cheers

Munchkin

Originally Posted by outback

On a more serious note, has anyone tried these.

Countersink

G'day Outback,
Not so seriously, YES

I've used them, but I know them as a "Cone Cutter"

I use them for enlarging [circular] holes in plastic, PVC etc.
and yes they 'just happen' to make good countersinkers,
Though you only use the VERY tip of them.
They go out to about 2" on the big ones.
The screw would end up getting lost in the hole.

Count