Thread: DYI Pergola/Gazebo?

I would retain the existing gutter. The beams would be scribe cut so that they would have their top edge flush with the gutter top edge. The remainder of the beam end would butt into the existing verandah beam directly above existing verandah post.
No, I wouldnt follow the rake of the verandah roof. That would be too steep. The slope would be best to the outer edge if there is enough height.
The wind tunnel I was on about is the same as what you have between the main roof and kitchen roof. A flat roof would allow the wind to pass over and under without a speed increase. I would imagine you would have some lifting on your existing roof between the kitchen and house.
If the roof line of the wash house is an issue, it could be reroofed as part of the pergola. Particularly if you choose to fall the pergola back to the existing gutter.
Next question?

Originally Posted by rustynail

The wind tunnel I was on about is the same as what you have between the main roof and kitchen roof. A flat roof would allow the wind to pass over and under without a speed increase. I would imagine you would have some lifting on your existing roof between the kitchen and house.

That makes sense ... when we re roofed the house a few years ago there was little lifting on that side of the house (the other side was much worse) and in all honesty all the noise we hear comes from the veranda at the back ....maybe the positioning of the house when it was built originally factored that in? The guy was a ship builder

Anyway, its certainly something I had not considered whichis good coz now I am thinking about it

I dont think you have mentioned in any of your posts which way the house faces, or which side the pergola would be. In relation to timber sizes for your spans, you may have to drop the 5m back a little if you are going to build in soft wood. The 12m is not a problem. If you are set on 5m, the beams running out would be pretty large and may limit head height. Let me know your timber of choice and I will work out some sizes.

me and my mummy brain we'll blame that on the newborn

The house faces Westish and the pergola would be on the Southside.

Timbers I am not too sure what to use really. It would need to be durable all the timbers on the house are hardwood but I'd imagine that would be a lot heavier and more exxy than a soft wood like pine?

I really don't know much about timber all I know is when we do the decking evenutally we're hoping to do it the same tongue in groove jarrah as what is on the veranda currently. Its worn really well over the 40+ years since the veranda was new.

I honestly wouldn't know where to begin with the timber of choice, was going to just pop into Mitre10 and see what they said and get prices once Ihad plans drawn up so I could work out prices.

There are currently 5 posts along the vernada side so was thinking of 11 new posts if we went pitched roof, 5 down each side of the length and one in the center at the front (so half of the 5, cannot match that at the back along the wash house because of the well). I am hoping to enclose it a little so the kids cannot just run straight off it eventhough once it is decked the height will not be so great that they would hurt themselves ... though the deck is a loooong way off at this stage.

Nae

Treated pine would probably be your cheapest option. Hardwood would be capable of larger spans but would be pricey in good durable specie.
You have two options in treated pine; CCA(copper, chrome, arsnic) or LOSP(light organic solvent preservative.)
LOSP is not suitable for in ground contact but is a good choice for above ground use. The oil based treatment helps prevent cracking in the surface of the timber and it paints well.
CCA is suitable for in ground use. Very prone to surface cracking and becomes brittle with age.
If posts are on bases LOSP would be fine.
To determin timber sizes I would need the measurement between the existing verandah posts, centre to centre or into over (both are the same) also the sectional size of the existing posts.