Thread: DYI Pergola/Gazebo?

It's not terribly hard to do if you are comfortable with tools.

Lots of the hardware chains have plans online (such as Mitre10 - Planning & DIY - Resources - MitrePlans - Build a Pergola ) and there is also the excellent Decks and Pergolas manual - http://buybooksonline.com.au/the-aus...nual-p-48.html which you can get in most of the large hardware stores.

Also have a look at the renovate forum - Renovate Forums - Home

Originally Posted by NaeNae

It would have to be freestanding

That's too bad, actually -- because the easiest type of pergola to build (I think) is the type that you attach to the side of your house.

The big advantage here is that you can use the existing strength of your house to support the pergola structure -- via a "ledger" board that you attach to the studs of your house -- usually just above the sliding doors that typically open to an outdoor patio or deck.

Also, this style of pergola is probably better to build after you have installed a deck -- which would allow you to attach the pergola posts to the deck frame (rather than install footings, etc.).

As much as I like free-standing pergolas, in my opinion they are a much more complex project to take on.

Ideally I'd like it to attach to the house however we have a veranda 1.8m wide veranda that goes all around the house and where the pergola would be going there is an outside wash house that is stand alone which would be at the back end of the pergola.

I have been told that the wash house cannot be used to attach the pergola to

I am happy to post a photo to help explain ... is that allowed here?

A photo would be most helpful, plus dimensions.
The only tricky bit about a free-standing pergola is the bracing.
There are two accepted methods.
1. If you allow the embedment of the posts themselves to provide stability then 1/3 of the post must be below ground. Therefore if 2.4 mtrs of the post is above ground then 1.2 mtrs must be buried. This gives a total post length of 3.6mtrs with 1/3 below ground.
Few DIY'ers have the means to dig a 1.2mtr deep stump hole. You'll require a stump hole digger.
2. The alternative is to provide bracing on at least two of the "walls". Rather ugly if it’s just the usual 2 members at 45deg in an X pattern. However, there are several interesting methods of providing that cross bracing if you just use some imagination.
A common method I personally used of several was a brace of 3 posts at each corner set say 600 to 900mm apart with bracing in between in a variety of methods. Very stable structure and with one at each corner provides good bracing and architectural interest at the same time. But...triples your post costs.

Very often, a free standing pergola with no roof sheets of any kind do not require a permit of any kind. (Check with your council)
If it is attached anywhere to the house however, it will.
Also, as soon as you put any solid type of roofing sheets on it, (iron, f/glass/polycarbonate etc) you will then need a permit. (Again, check with your council)
Cheers
Jim

not sure if the attachment will work but it gives you an idea of what I am talking about.

The area still needs to be leveled etc I was hoping to mount the posts in stirrups to keep it matching the veranda? I certainlt could not get a hole digger into the area next to the well, that will need to be dug by hand.

maybe I am biting off more than I can chew

Originally Posted by NaeNae

I was hoping to mount the posts in stirrups to keep it matching the veranda?

That merely means you will have to design the bracing into the pergola itself. Not a problem.

I certainlt could not get a hole digger into the area next to the well, that will need to be dug by hand.

You'll only require roughly 300x300x600 Easy hand dig.

maybe I am biting off more than I can chew

Of course you're not.
One step at a time. First step....design
Ask advice here on how to do each step, then do it.
Whatever skills you need that you don't have...you can learn.
Have confidence in yourself.

Cheers
Jim

Grandad-5,

do yo think if I used some ornate wood brackets on all the corners and perhaps a balustrade (sp?) on the 2 open sides that it would offer the construction more stability? Initially it would just be the corner brackets as we'll eventually be doing the decking but that will have to wait until we can work out what we're doing with the well

We're pretty lucky where we live we don't need council permits to do this project, I just need to find my grid paper to draw it all up, rough measurements have it approx 5m wide x 12ishm long the other roofs are at a 35degree angle so we'll need to match that.

I can see it in my mind, just need to draw it up, price itand get hubby to level the area.It will be a long prject I suspect, due to finances, but with a toddler and baby, its almost essential to have an undercover outside area so they can play with their slides etc when its wet

Sorry Nae Nae, fancy corner brackets won't cut it.
This is the first time you've mentioned dimensions. That is huge.

Size won't make it more complicated to build, the same techniques are used regardless of size. But it does make it expensive. And the weight of rafters, cross-ties etc you'll have sitting up high on top of 8 or so posts all sitting on little brackets means the bracing will need to be seriously substantial.

Try to picture the whole structure twisting down into a heap to get a grasp of what I mean. A structure like this doesn't fall straight down. It tends to spiral down.

If I was presented with this job when I was building, I would have had in the back of my mind that it would be much cheaper in steel. When the size of timbers required rise to a certain point, their cost starts to become prohibitive when compared to steel and I would know I'm not likely to win this quote.

Having said that, to a DIY'er, having it made in steel by someone means all the $ has to be found at once, whereas timber can be purchased as you go and the cost can be spread over a longer period. And you end up with what you want.

I think the first thing to do would be to put the word out here to someone with up to date span tables so we can work out a design.

Its a big ask to ask a DIY'er to pitch a roof for a 5 metre span 2 1/2 mtrs up in the air. Can we please have a bit more info on hubby's experience so we know what we can suggest please?

But at this stage, I'm thinking starting with posts with beams around the perimeter checked into the posts and then FLAT rafters spanning the 5 mtrs.

I really need to see a span chart but I'm thinking nothing short of 10x2 f7 will span that distance. Maybe 8x2 at shorter centres.
Then brace it.

This gives hubby a flat surface on which to pitch rafters.

Another method, which I have used myself is home-made trusses using simple half lap joins. The downside of this the weight of each truss would make lifting them up there a team effort.

Lets wait until we can get some accurate dimensions, then someone to help with a span table.
From there we can discuss bracing methods once we have a design to work with,

Cheers
Jim

Yeah its pretty big ...

We originally thought of doing a flat sloping roof but the problem with that is it will look too much like an "after thought" ... which it is really only by 113 years ROFL. Have attached a piccie of the house, a pitched roof certainly would be the best option. We have thought about steel but it would look out of place, the aesthetics is really really important as the property will (eventually, years and yeays from now) be opened up maybe once a year for historical groups to come through.

Pop has the most building experience but is now physically restricted, hubby and myself have limited experience

is it ..... "tell her she's dreamin" ??

Originally Posted by NaeNae

is it ..... "tell her she's dreamin" ??

No way, I just want to make sure its done right. Your kids are going to be playing under it.
"Pop" sounds llike a valuable resource. An old time chippy is just what the doctor ordered. Regardless of physical ability, he has the knowledge.

Let's just wait for a couple more guys to weigh into this discussion so we can throw some ideas around.

Cheers
Jim

Thought this pic may help to illustrate.
It's not a pergola, it was what they refer to as a lych gate. Originally, it was a covered area where the carriage could be parked while the driver opened the gates.
Obviously, this one won't provide much shelter but it looks good.

The span here is slightly less than your 5 mtrs I think, and the pitch is steeper than you're planning but it illustrates the point.

These are trusses made on the ground and lifted into place. The bracing on this structure was via the stump holes and the fencing on both sides.
There was no wobble to it at all. Mind you, the posts went down 4 or 5 ft.

It was a two man job to lift the trusses into place.
The fellow I took with me that day had no fear of heights, unlike me that takes to lunchtime before I'm happy up high.

The trusses themselves are simple half lap joins with liquid nails and clinched nails at the top and bolts used on the cross ties. The timber is oregon, but that was just what we used in those day. There was no re-dried structural treated pine. That is what you would use today.

Cheers
Jim

Jim,

YES thats the look I am after l

I had a thought (amazing what you come up with when your vaccing a toddlers lunch with a screaming baby in her cot)

I wonder if using one or two 4x4 or 2x4 noggins (sp?) in between the inner (house side) pergola posts and the veranda posts would help to act as stablisers? the posts for the veranda will hopefully be the line we'll use for the pergola........

Pop is not an old chippy but anold farmer who wanted to be an engineer. When the old pig stye was blown over in a storm he made the roof trusses and 9 custom door frames to fit the old stye so my reckoning is he would probably come up with some ideas too ...... it is his house afterall

Originally Posted by NaeNae

I wonder if using one or two 4x4 or 2x4 noggins (sp?) in between the inner (house side) pergola posts and the veranda posts would help to act as stablisers? the posts for the veranda will hopefully be the line we'll use for the pergola........

Definately, but I would firmly attach a member on the sides of the posts rather than in-between like a noggin is.
That would take care of the bracing in one direction, then you would only need to brace the second direction. (I've never got the hang of this xy axis lingo)

Pop is not an old chippy but an old farmer who wanted to be an engineer.

Better still. There's nothing an old farmer can't turn his hand to.
They don't always use accepted methods but it inevitably works.

Cheers
Jim

There are a few areas of concern re a free standing high pitched structure close to an existing roof. As well as bracing, another concern is creating a wind tunnel between the two roofs. If the laps on the original iron face into the prevailing wind, things may get nasty.
After looking at your photo, I cant see any reason why you couldnt run out off the existing verandah beam. A "flat" roof would not look out of place as a pergola takes on a look of its own as it is not part of the main structure as such. What does look out of place is what we call a "near miss." That is, a structure trying to imitate the original but somewhat out of context. This is a risk you would run with a freestanding high pitched roof on legs. I imagine you are being guided by the wash house and its lines in relation to the house. Your pergola is a completely different kettle of fish.
Imagine, main beams running out from existing verandah beam at each existing post, butting end of beam scribed to accommodate existing gutter, outer end supported on posts to match existing verandah posts, purlin beams run between main beams at suitable spacing for roof cladding. Structure to have the minimum fall to either existing gutter or, if height allows, to new guttering along outer edge.
To make the new blend in with the old, always try to run from existing members ie beams from above existing posts. Imitate spans ie existing roof battens and pergola purlins. Imitate sectional sizes ie pergola posts to existing verandah posts, pergola beams to verandah beams.
I think you would be surprised how well it would all tie in.
Hope this helps.