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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Atwell, Perth
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    259

    Default to edge or not to edge...

    Am about to embark on making the wife a extendable table for her to use as a cutting table (for sewing etc).

    Finally decided to go the cheap option and just use Melamime surface with a pine frame. Melamime gives a solid smooth and hard finish for her to run scissors up and shouldnt scratch too much.

    Anyways, basically I want the top to be something like a 600 * 1300 centre panel, with two 500 * 1300 panels that are hinged and can flip up when needed to join smoothly with the centre panel.

    Now, while in the up position, I intend to have them supported, however, when the sides are down, the weight will be held by the hinges alone. I am thinking I will get some of those full length hinges (ie will run the whole length of the table).

    My question is, is the melamime and chipboard going to be strong enough to support and hold the weight of the side panels while it is in the down position? or should I edge the melamine in a hardwood and glue and screw this with 50mm screws and then attach the hinges to the hardwood?.

    My gut instinct is that the screws in the melamine will tear out over time and use as the sides are raised and lowered, putting stress on the screws.

    If anyone with experience in this could give me some advice it would be much appreciated.

    cheers

    Redback

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Oberon, NSW
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Redback
    I am thinking I will get some of those full length hinges (ie will run the whole length of the table).

    My question is, is the melamime and chipboard going to be strong enough to support and hold the weight of the side panels while it is in the down position? or should I edge the melamine in a hardwood and glue and screw this with 50mm screws and then attach the hinges to the hardwood?
    Piano hinges (those full length hinges) will hold the static weight alright, but methinks your gut instinct is on the right track just the same. As it's to be a working table I'd be inclined to add the edging just to make sure it's not a problem.

    If 'twere to be more decorative I'd suggest different hinges and a slightly different construction that "hides" the top of the flaps when they're in the down position, but that's a whole other thread in itself...
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    tasmania
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    60
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    387

    Default

    I tend to agree with skewchidamn , the screws for piano hinges are quite narrow gauge and could pull out of the chipboard fairly easily imho . Maybe better to edge it as you suggested with some hardwood and screw the hinges into that . Another option might be the standard melamine specific ( Euro ?) hinges . That is an option I would consider .
    Regards
    Rick
    uhm , where am I ?

  5. #4
    Join Date
    May 2000
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    Clovelly Park SA
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    54
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    729

    Smile What about this

    My suggestion:

    I would 'frame' each piece of melamine in the pine as you say.

    Then I would join the flaps with the piano hinge on the bottom, to achieve a flat top. Something like this:
    Greatest Movie Quote Ever: "Its good to be the king!"
    ____________________________

  6. #5
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    Default

    Gidday Redback

    If your keen enough theres always a way. I think Epoxy is the Answer & would get onto something like a west system EPoxy.

    I
    had success reinforcing Melamine and Mdf with whats basically an epoxy Banding (See Pic)

    I'd do something similar to this (ensuring its flat). I'd pre-drill holes for some piano Hinge (Oversize) then fill with Epoxy. Its critical to let the Epoxy cure don't touch it for a week.

    After this i'd pre drill with a small diameter drill bit in the epoxy wells then drive in some good quality chipboard screws. You might be pleasantly suprised how well this works Redback.

    I've done something similar with hanging a door that was doing some serious floor scraping with seasonal movement...............havent had a problem since & the hinges arn't even morticed. This was done with a lower strength 5 min Epoxy.

    ....................Might be worth a go!!!!!
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    Atwell, Perth
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    Default

    Thanks guys,

    Gazza, yeah thats what I had basically decided, nice drawing though
    what did you use?

    The epoxy idea sounds interesting, certainly something to think about.

    Again thanks for the feedback

    Redback

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2000
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    Clovelly Park SA
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Redback
    .....nice drawing though what did you use?...
    Just Microsoft Paint dude

    So where are the piccies of the birthday jewellery box for your better half?
    Greatest Movie Quote Ever: "Its good to be the king!"
    ____________________________

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Atwell, Perth
    Age
    52
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    259

    Default

    made my first training box out of pine over the weekend. Not too impressed with my first effort, so certainly not posting it. Might need to do a couple more before I try it on that banksia, camphor, teak etc that I have planned to use!.

    Decided to splash out a buy a set of box cutting bits from Gifkins. I can justify the expense to the missus because its to make her something
    (of course she can't know about them till after her birthday!)

    Hopefully they will turn up today for a feast of box making over the weekend.

    cheers

    Redders

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