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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    NSW
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    774

    Default Edge for Malamine

    Hi all,

    I'm making some drawers for a cabinet in my shed out of malamine and I'm wondering what the difference is between the edging I bought from Nover and the edge banding I see in the malamine in my kitchen...?
    The edging on the malamine in my kitchen seems thicker and maybe made of a different material. The stuff that I bought you just iron on and it seems thin and flimsy looking compared to the edging on say the malamine you see that's already edged at Bunnings and the like.

    So does anyone know if you can buy that better looking eding - or is it something that is only for mass produced malamine?

    Thanks
    Geoff

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
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    Bald Hills
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    Default

    After not being happy with the stuff that was around i just edge now with thin ripped timber and a run with a flush trim router bit , the iron on stuff seems to want to peel after awhile.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Sydney
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    16

    Default Edging

    Hi Geoff,

    The edging for Melamine coated artificial boards comes in different thicknesses up to at least 2 mm.

    The iron on stuff you buy for the hardware store is usually about 0.5 mm and in my experience works quite well.

    I don't know if you can source the thicker stuff in 'iron on' products - it may need a professional edging machine to fix it firmly to the boards.

    Gerry

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    wa
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    106

    Default edge for melamine

    Lo Geoff,
    The melamine edging is .4 of a mil thick and capable of being ironed on. The other type of edging is called ABS and is not capable of being ironed on. The one mil can be applied with a contact adhesive but both the 1 and 2 mil are generally applied with a edge bander machine.
    Hope this helps
    Garry
    ssgt

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    NSW
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    774

    Default

    Thanks guys.

    So I need a machine for the good looking edging.... probably expensive too?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    You can get a handheld edgebander see here : https://www.woodworkforums.com/f13/po...banders-77753/

    I think they are about $400ish. I have one and they work well, the edging is much better than the iron on stuff.

    I bought mine from : Beyond Tools




    joez

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
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    5,107

    Default

    Good Morning Geoff

    Six months ago I rebuilt our kitchen - 16 cabinet units and 28 drawers.

    I got a local joiner to supply, cut and edgeband (2mm thick bands) all needed melamine. These were cut to a precision of 0.1 mm, I didn't have to breath melamine/chipboard dust, beautifully edgebanded and cost only about $100 more than I could have bought the melamine sheets and iron-on edgebanding. Worked for me.

    Cheers

    Graeme

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
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    3,260

    Default

    You can also manually glue the 1-2mm thick edging on with Tarzans Grip or epoxy.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Bradbury
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    1,429

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Master Splinter View Post
    You can also manually glue the 1-2mm thick edging on with Tarzans Grip or epoxy.
    U can use normal pva too. I've got a hand held edge bander at work now but before that, I'd just use pva and then masking tape to hold in place. Then trim it with a bevel cutter in the laminate trimmer. Pretty easy job.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    beechmont
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    2

    Default

    Don't u find edging can come away? nails with barbs?

    I've machined some myself and trying to work out fixing. I've used epoxy before w mixed results

    Thanks
    Tom

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Alexandra Vic
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    69
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    2,810

    Default

    Hi Tom,
    You haven't said what type of edging you were trying to fix, and there are a variety of different materials, thicknesses etc available commercially. I take it from the comment that you produced an edging to your requirements, probably from matching timber, and then had issues getting it to adhere in place.

    In a commercial environment, an edgebanding machine is used. This machine utilises a range of plastic edging materials supplied in rolls, or lengths of timber edging that are at least slightly longer than the edge to be finished. In all cases, the edging material is finished in thickness, but wider than the panel thickness, so that it will overhang the faces of the sheet when applied. The component to be edged is mounted on a plastic chain conveyor and moves through the machine at a fixed speed.

    Edging materials can be preglued, in which case the machine uses a concentrated heat source to melt the glue immediately prior to applying to the panel, or unglued, in which case the machine uses a glue pot and roller system to melt a glue and apply a thin layer to the edging immediately before fixing it to the panel. A pressure roller then rolls the edging to the panel as the glue cools and sets.

    There are a number of other stations in the machine, which cut and trim the edging to the length of the panel, them trim the edging material overhang off flush with panel faces, and round over the sides of the edging if required. Other stations can do other tasks such as buffing the sides of the edging if required.
    All of the functions of the machine are selectable to match the situation required for a particular component, and are individually manually adjustable to get exactly the required result.

    At a recreational level, simple edgebanders are available. These generally handle a limited range of edging, typically only preglued 0.4mm thick plastic tape. These machines have a platter to support the roll of edging tape, a channel to guide the panel along, a heat source to melt the glue on the back of the tape, a pressure roller to fix the tape to the panel as it passes and a manual trimmer unit to cut the tape once the panel has passed the pressure roller. Material edged this way ends up with tape that overhangs the panel faces and has medium length tails at each end of the edge being finished. The overhang and the tails are both trimmed by the operator before another edge on the panel is banded.

    Alternatively, you can use iron on timber veneers or edge tapes to manually edge a panel, again the veneer or tape is applied to overlap the panel faces and extend beyond the panel lengthways, and then trimmed to length and width manually before proceeding to the next edge.

    Generally speaking all of the above methods use a hot melt type glue with a rapid transition from fluid state to solid state as they cool, so the edging is locked in position on the panel before the fastening pressure is released, or immediately afterwards.

    Someone mentioned that they manually edged with PVA and used masking tape to locate the edging and apply pressure while the glue dries. This works well with a very thin coating of glue and edging that overhangs the panel.

    You mentioned that some of your attempts at edging have resulted in the edging lifting, and that you have used epoxies with mixed results. If the edging lifts, it indicates that either the glue used was not appropriate for the materials, or that too little glue was used if it was suitable for the task. I haven't come across people using epoxy for edging in the past, and would consider it unsuitable for any of the plastic edge tapes as it would not have sufficient penetration into the plastic to grip well. For a timber edging, it should penetrate the edging well but may well not penetrate or bond well with the substrate material. It also tends to create a skatey interface between the materials being glued prior to setting, which may make locating an edging that is finished to size difficult. Also cleaning up squeeze out would be difficult as it would be a hard and tough material. The squeeze out from the hot melt type glues is fairly soft and easily removed with a scrape with an old plane blade or similar and a wipe with some solvent.

    Hope this helps you understand some of the methods used in edging, and why they are employed.
    I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

    Default

    I would not bother with edging in melamine. It is not durable enough for drawers. It will chip and peel. You are far better off ripping your own edging in hardwood, at least 6- 10mm thick, and using this. Trim with a router. It will look better as well.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  14. #13
    rrich Guest

    Default

    What Derek said is probably your best advice.

    HOWEVER

    If you really want to edge. . . .

    Call a few cabinet shops in your area. Tell them what you're doing and ask for a referral to some one who will do the edge banding for you.

    BTW - The machine that we had at school did an excellent job but was in the $25,000 range.

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