English Elm - some observations

**Thylacene** · 12th October 2015, 11:05 PM

So I managed to find a local bloke who runs a portable mill, so I wandered out to check out what he had on offer. Among the goodies he had laying around he had some sticks of English Elm (his description), so I bought a couple of 150x50 x 1.5m lengths from him to see what it was like.

The boards were cut from a reclaimed tree that has been down for several years, and the timber is dry and appears well seasoned.

I knocked 350mm off one end and threw it across the tablesaw to make a box. I figured this was a good way to experiment before committing to making some drawer fronts and shelves.

It is a strange beasty, with two of the four boards I cut from the 50mm thickness staying relatively straight and the other two doing their best to turn into boomerangs overnight. There was some signs of released stress as it was sawn, but that almost doubled overnight. It looks like I might salvage a 6mm thick board from the current 11mm thickness from the piece closest to the ruler, and maybe 8mm from the other.

DSC_0263.jpg

There are some nice grain features in the boards, but that also means that they are very difficult to work with a blade. I spent some time trying to get a nice finish and a level face on two edges of the board, with a level of frustration, as the interlocked grain meant that with my best efforts at sharpening (which may still need work) I got tearout going one way, and the other way the rings in the grain went "fluffy".

DSC_0264.jpg

I mucked around and ended up using a belt sander to get a smooth finish on one piece, so I ripped it in half, and set out to make a box, which is still work in progress. The photos below show the Elm with a coat of Danish Oil, the pins have been left long intentionally, with the edges rounded as an experiment.

DSC_0262.jpg

The small amount of cupping was "clamped" out of it, and it will be interesting to see how it behaves over time. The oil brings out the features in the grain, and in my opinion, it is an aesthetically pleasing timber.

DSC_0265.jpg

So having had a play, I searched the web for articles on using Elm and it appears to be an uncommon choice for joinery, and possibly for the reasons I have mentioned above. There are very hits returned on google, and those that are speak of it being difficult to work with hand tools.

I will continue to experiment with the couple of pieces that I have, and worst case scenario it will just become boxes for pressies.

Anyone have any tips to minimise loss due to the cupping? I am thinking of trying to cut for the best result based on the grain to end up with some smaller boards that I can join. or alternatively, rip it into 3-4mm thick veneer, and put those on an MDF substrate (something I have not done previously).

Sorry for the photo quality, they were taken under fluoros with a phone.

Cheers

Taz

**Acco** · 13th October 2015, 04:20 AM

Looks like it's from a branch or a young tree from the end grain in the first pic, which would explain the movement but I'm not quite convinced that it is English Elm. I'm wondering if it's Chinese Elm

**Thylacene** · 13th October 2015, 07:34 AM

It came out of a log approx 16" in diameter, he has another length of the same log on site, it was docked to be able to be transported in a trailer. The log appears reasonably straight.

The grain on the larger piece I have looks like the tree attempted to grow limbs (possibly pruned) when it was quite young, and then has just grown over it. It is an interesting experiment, I will try to enhance my sharpening skills to give it every chance.

**Thylacene** · 13th October 2015, 06:41 PM

Originally Posted by Acco

Looks like it's from a branch or a young tree from the end grain in the first pic, which would explain the movement but I'm not quite convinced that it is English Elm. I'm wondering if it's Chinese Elm

Had reason to visit him again today, confirmed it is English Elm AKA Ulmus minor 'Atinia' as there were photos provided showing the tree before it was felled in Bungendore. A search for this on wikipedia revealed that my observations are pretty close to the mark, not used often for furniture due to its tendency to move around etc.

Anyway, I have 3 1.5 x 150 x 50 sticks of it that I will find a use for, maybe put breadboard ends on it to minimise the movement. Will be interesting, have paid for every bit of my education to date, just another lesson I reckon.

**Enfield Guy** · 13th October 2015, 08:26 PM

You could try stacking it with stickers and weight it down for a while and see what happens. I've done this in the past and has saved stuff that didn't look usable just post resawing.

**cadas** · 16th October 2015, 10:39 PM

Elm moves and will always do so. As I type this I have my feet up on an elm coffee table I made nearly 20 years ago. Simple design made from 50 mm thick planks (four planks). It was a sod to plane, scrape and sand, but even now after replaning twice, it is bending gently again. We've learned to accept it.

I'll take some pics tomorrow, but it looks almost identical timber to the stuff you have there.

My other experience with elm was buying 40 coffin kits made from elm from a retiring undertaker. These comprised a rough base, sides and a dressed top. Looked great, and I bought it to build a bar in a hotel from it. Would have made a great talking point.

6 ft under was probably where it should have ended up.

**Thylacene** · 24th May 2020, 09:34 PM

Yep, I bought some a few years back thinking it would make nice boxes. It changed shape every night [emoji1787][emoji1787]

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**T91** · 24th May 2020, 11:14 PM

when I machine elm to make something (ie put it through the saw,jointer & planer), I put it in clamps with 19mm stickers on something I know is straight for a couple of weeks... 7 days absolute minimum imo.

**wood spirit** · 12th July 2020, 12:51 AM

my experience was that it was bouncy ie it had give that came back. easy to work -but a softish kinda thing to work.

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