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Thread: Will this epoxy work as glue?
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6th July 2021, 03:32 PM #1Member
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Will this epoxy work as glue?
Looking to build an outdoor table that will be exposed to the elements with no protection (apart from oil/finish).
Joinery will be Domino floating tenons.
Will using something like this work as glue? I notice some US Youtubers starting to use a similar product.
Dunlop 254ml 2 Part Epoxy Builders Bond - Bunnings Australia
Thanks
Tony
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6th July 2021 03:32 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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6th July 2021, 04:04 PM #2China
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Why not use PVA?
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6th July 2021, 06:30 PM #3exposed to the elements with no protection
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6th July 2021, 08:02 PM #4
I have used Titebond 3 in quite a few outdoor applications recently with no problems, but read of some issues in the US. I now use Sika tech glue, which is a urethane, totally waterproof. Why mess around with a product that isn’t specifically made for joinery?
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6th July 2021, 08:24 PM #5GOLD MEMBER
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There are a number of epoxies in self dispensing tubes at Bunnings but haven’t seen that one. It sounds more of a filler than an adhesive to me
Why not just get a product that is made for the job along the lines of this
Norglass Staybond Epoxy Glue, $39.95 | Whitworths Marine
Pricepoint is the same and it will be much easier to work with and a better colour. Most of the epoxies in the gun form are pink or off white colour
You don’t want to go to all the effort of making furniture only to have a failure with a simple issue of wrong glue selection
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7th July 2021, 06:46 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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I’ve used that stuff and it’s strong as but it goes off in the mixing nozzle and therefore you need several if you don’t use the whole tube, same setup as chemset epoxy for holding down bolts. It’s clean to work with though, no atmospheres blowing around as you mix them in. I buy 20 litre packs of this 500 Series Epoxy Resin ( only for use with Fast, Slow or Super Slow hardener ) | Trojan Fibreglass Online
and then add fume silica powder (atmospheres) to it to make it whatever viscosity I need. It works out way cheaper and it lasts for a few years on the shelf. The dunlop tubes are fine for small jobs but you need several nozzles.
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7th July 2021, 07:46 AM #7GOLD MEMBER
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Or don’t use the mixing nozzles and dispense onto a sheet and hand mix. As RB said it goes off in the nozzle fairly quickly if you don’t keep dispensing the contents.
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7th July 2021, 10:06 AM #8Senior Member
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Epox-E-Glue 200gram Kit Coloured : Boatcraft Pacific, the home of wooden boat building.
there’s this stuff. I’ve used it in boatbuilding. Very good as an adhesive , similar consistency to Vaseline. You scoop out a couple of similar sized blobs of each, mix it and use. Good open time too."World's oldest kid"
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7th July 2021, 10:33 AM #9Member
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Thanks guys for the info and for providing the other options.
I'll do a bit more research.
I was planning on using Titebond III, just a little concerned about longevity being exposed to the elements
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8th July 2021, 02:24 PM #10
The only self-dispensing eopxy that I have used is Araldite. It works well enough, but most other epoxies are better.
I have done a lot of epoxy work, and the only epoxies I use now are WEST System or the local fibreglass shop's generic copy thereof. And almost always with the slow hardener option. I don't need to be rushed. I dilute the first coat with acetone or MEK to aid penetration then use straight. When needed, I thicken it with colloidal silica or saw dust
Epoxies must be mixed until they clarify, so I am very sceptical of any "self mixing nozzle"; sounds like a mass market good average product at best. But that might be all you need!
PS: If you haven't used epoxy before, then heed the safety instructions. It is seriously nasty stuff and the effects are cumulative.
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8th July 2021, 02:58 PM #11
The self mixing nozzles work well for construction grade applications like the various Ramset epoxies. You can glue threaded rod into a slab and get cyclone-rated pull resistance. For joinery? Don’t know. I have used West System for about….thirty years now, off and on. Last time I had a complete bond failure in western red cedar, causing delamination. I didn’t spend too much time on the post-mortem, but think it was a case of bone-dry material wicking the epoxy out of the joint prior to curing.
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8th July 2021, 10:02 PM #12GOLD MEMBER
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polyurethane glues are waterproof and probably cheaper than epoxy and doesnt require mixing. Some options here
PU60 - TimbaTech Pty Ltd
Sikabond 125g Brown Techgrip Multi Purpose Polyurethane Adhesive - Bunnings Australia
Gorilla 236ml Glue Bottle - Bunnings Australia
Polyurethane Liquid Glue – Titebond Glues and Adhesives: Woodbond Adhesives Pty Ltd
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polyurethane glues are waterproof and probably cheaper than epoxy and doesnt require mixing. Some options here
PU60 - TimbaTech Pty Ltd
https://www.bunnings.com.au/sikabond...esive_p1660985
https://www.bunnings.com.au/gorilla-...ottle_p1662679
https://titebond.com.au/products/polyurethane/
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8th July 2021, 10:11 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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yep, i've seen this stuff melt the plastic container i was using to mix it up in. but i still have a chunk on a garage floor from some spillage that i'm yet to get off due to just how dam stuck it is. Flogging it with a ball pein hammer is the only way i can get it to move.
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9th July 2021, 04:14 PM #14
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9th July 2021, 06:36 PM #15
Quite so. The least of these is a nasty, recurring dermatitis.
From a typical epoxy MSDS...
Hazard Statements
H315 Causes skin irritation.
H317 May cause an allergic skin reaction.
H319 Causes serious eye irritation.
H411 Toxic to aquatic life with long lasting effects.
and the hardner...
Acute toxicity, Oral, Category 4
Acute toxicity, Dermal, Category 4
Acute toxicity, Inhalation, Category 5
Skin corrosion/irritation, Category 1C
Skin sensitizer, Category 1
Germ cell mutagenicity, Category 2
Specific target organ toxicity (repeated exposure), Category 2 Acute aquatic toxicity, Category 2
Chronic aquatic toxicity, Category 2
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