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  1. #31
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    May 2013
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  3. #32
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    Aug 2008
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Muss View Post
    They are great but you can get them for half the price on Amazon Staedtler Mars 780 Technical Mechanical Pencil, 2mm. 2-PACK: Mechanical Pencils: Amazon.com.au

  4. #33
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    Apr 2006
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    Hobart
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    5,105

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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    They are great but you can get them for half the price on Amazon Staedtler Mars 780 Technical Mechanical Pencil, 2mm. 2-PACK: Mechanical Pencils: Amazon.com.au
    Or quarter price in UK.
    staedtler 780c | The Hamilton Pen Company

    [£6.95 retail = £5.79 ex VAT = Au$10.71 plus postage.]

    For some reason pens and pencils are exhorbitant in Aus!

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Millmerran,QLD
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    73
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    11,095

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    jpdv

    Returning to the original question, much depends on the criteria and the budget. As an example of this, I had to devise a minimalist tool kit for my carpenter son living overseas at the time in Slovakia. No power tools, no tools he could not access very cheaply himself and a postal weight restriction shipping from Oz. It is a very difficult thing to do and very dependent on what you wish to accomplish.

    As an aside, he never got to use any of the tools that were sent and now lives in Norway (where he could have used the tools fitting out a mobile home based on a Sprinter van). I believe the tools are in storage in Slovakia at a former partner's parents house!

    Regards
    Paul
    Bushmiller;

    "Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Newcastle
    Age
    69
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    1,071

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    -Pull saw Might as well discover this right at the beginning
    -Square
    -Power drill
    -Coping saw
    -Chisel
    -Sharpening stone
    -Join the forum..... and you are off and running.

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
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    Elizabeth Bay / Oberon NSW
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    76
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    934

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    I started my tool collection by buying what I needed for the job in hand; and still do. You quickly work out what's essential and what's not, and it's easier on the bank account. Some things now sit in the cupboard but they're there when needed, often by someone else.

    I would sooner see a newbie working with wood from the get-go rather than trying to work out what they might need down the track.

    mick

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

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    My minimum kit for building furniture ....

    Felder CF741 (combination machine):




    Felder FB710 ...





    Ok, Ok ... just kidding


    • Stanley #5 jack plane with 2 PM-V11 blades (heavily cambered and light cambered) - thicknessing, jointing, smoothing
    • Veritas Small Plow - grooves, rebates
    • Veritas Large Router Plane
    • Stanley #53 spokeshave
    • 4 x Veritas PM-V11 bench chisels: 1/8", 1/4", 3/4", and 1". - dovetails, joinery
    • Lie Nielsen thin kerf dovetail saw - dovetailing, joinery
    • Japanese Ryoba 270mm - cross/rip sawing; tenons.
    • Coping saw
    • Starrett 150mm double and 300mm combination squares.
    • Stanley 0-10-598 utility knife
    • Vesper 7" sliding bevel.
    • Festool C12 cordless drill/driver with bits 1/16" - 1/2".


    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Hobart
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    My minimum kit for building furniture ....

    Felder CF741 (combination machine):




    Felder FB710 ...





    ....



    Derek

    Plus a full set of Festool stuff, in systainers, of course, anally stacked like in all those German videos.

    G

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Hobart
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    My minimum kit for building furniture ....


    • Stanley #5 jack plane with 2 PM-V11 blades (heavily cambered and light cambered) - thicknessing, jointing, smoothing
    • Veritas Small Plow - grooves, rebates
    • Veritas Large Router Plane
    • Stanley #53 spokeshave
    • 4 x Veritas PM-V11 bench chisels: 1/8", 1/4", 3/4", and 1". - dovetails, joinery
    • Lie Nielsen thin kerf dovetail saw - dovetailing, joinery
    • Japanese Ryoba 270mm - cross/rip sawing; tenons.
    • Coping saw
    • Starrett 150mm double and 300mm combination squares.
    • Stanley 0-10-598 utility knife
    • Vesper 7" sliding bevel.
    • Festool C12 cordless drill/driver with bits 1/16" - 1/2".


    Regards from Perth

    Derek

    Amazing, a list like this is so personal that I thought no two people would agree, until I read your list.

    I would make only a couple of minor adjustments:
    • Increasingly I use a Lie Nielsen low angle jack plane (#5) for virtually everything. Add a third, scrub plane blade and ... Could switch to a Lee Valley to get three PM-V11 blades. Its a trade off between the lower centre of gravity of the LAJack versus the easier adjustability of the Stanley.
    • Prefer the wooden handled Veritas spokeshave because wood is nicer than steel.
    • And the Festool CXS is so cute.


    And what about a hammer?

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

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    Graeme, agree with the LA Jack for a #5. Your selection here is possibly better.

    The CXS is an interesting choice. I think that it has the same motor as the C12 (in Oz/Europe this is 10.8v, but in the USA they refer to it as 12v). The C12 has a little more oomph than the CXS, which gives it a wider range. However the issue is that a cordless drill for the workshop really does not need to be big and powerful - just enough for screws or removing waste for mortices.

    I have many spokeshaves. These were all in use last weekend as I shaped some stools ...



    The Stanley #53 is third from the bottom. It is the best all rounder around, with an adjustable mouth with opens for a rank shaving, then closes down for a finish cut.

    The sleeper among this bunch is the low angle Veritas, which is very similar to the Stanley wooden shaves. It worked so well! (working end grain, which is why).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
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    Bundaberg
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    54
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    3,402

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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    I have many spokeshaves. These were all in use last weekend as I shaped some stools ...
    Can I ask about the top one; the metal one hiding behind the wooden rams-horn shave?
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    CT, that "wooden rams-horn shave" is a travisher. These are used for hollowing seats ...



    These are used to hollow out the seat. Here I am using the shallower of the two ...





    Now the small metal one(s) at the rear are modified (handles removed) boot-makers spokeshaves, and these are used for the same purpose.

    Here they are with handles (pre-restoration of the blades) ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    7,696

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    I have a C12 but the only reason I bought it was because at the time it was just about the only brushless motor available. Today I would say a drill is a drill and I don't know that the Festool premium adds anything to drilling holes. I use the Bosch 12V drill in the workshop and can't think why 18V or more is necessary, outside the workshop 18V is a plus of course.
    CHRIS

  15. #44
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    Jun 2010
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    Bundaberg
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    54
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    CT, that "wooden rams-horn shave" is a travisher. These are used for hollowing seats
    Travisher; of course! I knew the shape rang a bell but couldn't quite put my finger on it...

    Regarding the heel shaves; that's what I thought it was having seen them crop up for sale regularly. I have often wondered how they'd cope with timber and most of the ones I've seen had pretty badly worn out blades so never mustered the courage to get one. With the benefit of experience with both items which do you find more useful overall for your stool seat shaping; the wooden travishers or a modified heel shave?

    (to avoid hijacking this thread any further; if you would be so kind as to answer this in the stool WIP you must be writing that would be fantastic! )
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  16. #45
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    Apr 2006
    Location
    Hobart
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    Quote Originally Posted by derekcohen View Post
    My minimum kit for building furniture ....


    • Vesper 7" sliding bevel.

    ...
    Regards from Perth

    Derek


    Interesting that you should have included Chris Vesper's sliding bevel, Derek. I think that it is quite important to include one aspirational tool in one's tool kit. Its purpose is to be used, but, far more importantly, to subconsciously raise one'e horizons. Just look at it, examine its lines and engineering, hold it, caress it and use it. Think: This is as good as it gets. Inspire me a little.

    Aspirational tools might include any of:


    • Vesper sliding bevel,
    • Colen Clenton adjustable square,
    • Terry Gordon block plane.
    • Simply, the best of the best!

    I thought of including a Tasai chisel with damascus steel blade, but that might be a dream too far.

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