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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    ...
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

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  3. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Victoria
    Age
    47
    Posts
    52

    Default

    Sorry, I missed this. With b bearing side mounts, I always work on the smallest/tightest size and deduct 26mm from that.

    All sounds easy in theory but great care needs to be taken measuring and building the drawer carcass/box to achieve this. Usually the bottom/front/back drawer components + 2 x side thicknesses. Not very hard to be a mm out with these calculations when put into practise due to drawer component side thickness actual size and human error. A tight drawer carcass/box will still usually fit but be very stiff with the soft close or push function not working. Better being looser than tighter as the runner can always be slightly packed if worst case scenario on either the drawer carcass runner or cabinet runner.

    No extra support needed as they are pretty strong. I always use euro screws in particle board/mdf but certainly not necessary. As mentioned my only gripe with them are the reliability of the soft close or push function over time. The actual movement of the slides are very reliable.

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    All good.

    So its easier to pack out one slide than it is to de-assemble, cut to size and re-assemble only to find you're too short and have to pack out anyway.

    LOL!

    Excellent post.
    Much appreciated.


    A 650mm x 450mm drawer made of 16mm melamine including bottom has some decent weight.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Victoria
    Age
    47
    Posts
    52

    Default

    16mm melemine is usually 16.2 - 16.5. I'd usually deduct 33mm for 2 x side thicknesses. Those slides are rated to 45kg Im pretty sure. Thats a fair bit of weight they can take.

  6. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    So round up for subtraction. 25.4 to 26 and 32.4 to 33.
    Excellent!
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    All drawers were working properly before transport.

    Now after delivery and setup some take two pushes to open.
    And one takes three pushes to open.

    Is there a trade secret I'm missing?

    thanks is advance
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  8. #37
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Brisbane (western suburbs)
    Age
    77
    Posts
    12,094

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    Could be a number of things, but I'd suggest the most likely cause is you've been a bit tight with your tolerances when fitting the inner parts of the slides. They need to be set far enough towards the front that pushing the drawer in releases the catches before the drawer front meets the cabinet. I had a problem with one of my drawers just like you describe. The solution is simple if you haven't used up all the adjustment allowed by the extended mounting holes, just loosen the screws & slide the fittings forward another couple of mm. If you can't do that, you might have to take them out, plug the screw holes & start again....

    Cheers,
    IW

  9. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    Thanks for that.
    All the drawers open.
    And they are flush faces.
    So the faces are not stopped by the drawer frame.

    Don't see how the mountings moved during the move.
    I thought maybe it was one side was unlocked and the other was locked so each push would just switch both.

    Luckily the client witnessed all 7 working perfectly before transport.

    If I run out of mounting holes I'll just move the slides up 5mm or so.

    I'm wondering now if having to move the heavy platform bed frame around after assembly on carpet has skewed the squareness of the drawer cabinets.
    Tolerances allow 2mm which really isn't much.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  10. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    I purchased 7 sets of the King PTO slides from Wilson & Brad.
    A ridiculous price not having an ABN.

    2 slides were replaced.

    I've got a third now that won't push open.

    The slide is beautiful when sliding in and out.

    But once clicked shut, they won't push open.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  11. #40
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    Summed up perfectly.


    Quote Originally Posted by ozka View Post
    Sorry, I missed this. With b bearing side mounts, I always work on the smallest/tightest size and deduct 26mm from that.

    All sounds easy in theory but great care needs to be taken measuring and building the drawer carcass/box to achieve this. Usually the bottom/front/back drawer components + 2 x side thicknesses. Not very hard to be a mm out with these calculations when put into practise due to drawer component side thickness actual size and human error. A tight drawer carcass/box will still usually fit but be very stiff with the soft close or push function not working. Better being looser than tighter as the runner can always be slightly packed if worst case scenario on either the drawer carcass runner or cabinet runner.

    No extra support needed as they are pretty strong. I always use euro screws in particle board/mdf but certainly not necessary. As mentioned my only gripe with them are the reliability of the soft close or push function over time. The actual movement of the slides are very reliable.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

  12. #41
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    1,014

    Default

    Barry, does the mechanism work without a drawer? Or is it faulty when not installed?

    All of these slides are VERY fussy when it comes to clearances and alignment. You have to be within a mm or so in all directions - they must be exactly the same height in the carcass, exactly parallel along their width, exactly horizontal, and there must be a 13mm space between the drawer side and drawer carcass on each side for the slide to fit in. And you've only got +/- 1mm grace across both the 13mm gaps combined.

    Get any of those wrong, and the slide will stick.

    The most common issue I had was that 13mm gap - usually a light planing of the drawer side fixed it.

  13. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Victoria
    Age
    47
    Posts
    52

    Default

    Eg: 16mm melamine 600mm cabinet. - 33 cab stock, = 567mm - 26mm runners, = 541mm (total drawer size) - 33mm drawer stock = drawer back/front/bottom size

    When I first started building drawers, I'd have trouble all the time, especially with the cheap single extension nylon runners. That was the go to runner up until 15-20 years ago. Having to cut and measure everything manually was the problem. Circ saw, straightedge & planer for whiteboard. My drawers/carcass would never be perfectly square and always twisted due to all my cuts being slightly out of square etc and the dimensions out a bit as well no doubt.

    One of the results of these discrepancies were having to stuff around with the mounting of the runners. I'd have to adjust each carcass runner afterwards for up and down via the slotted holes and then each drawer carcass runner for back and forth. It would add hours onto the job. The other main problem was the maths. The old 2 x stock thickness is often thicker than what is believed. Pays to hold 2 together and measure with a micrometer.

    Everything changed for the better once I finally got my own slide panel saw and got her dialed in. Simply set the rip fence or stop blocks to my measurements, cut = perfect square chip free cuts and if the calculations are correct then you get a perfectly functioning drawer. Always.

    Runners were marked out and mounted perfectly (using drawer fronts as a spacing) before carcass assembly using various jigs to replicate both side carcass panels and then screwed off permanently in non slotted holes, no adjustment needed ever. if the drawer and carcass are a matched size and both are square level and plumb. Ensuring these correct parameters enables one to even mount drawer fronts prior to assembly. I mainly use twin wall metal drawer systems which allow 2mm adjustment of the fronts in all directions.

    Push to open side mount are synonymous for being unreliable unless these factors are met and met well. Also the wider the drawer the worse they'll work as they struggle to sync unless you push the dead centre of the drawer. Top quality push to open box drawer systems like blum Legrabox and Grass and Salice equivalent have a syncro system for wider drawers (anything over 600mm wide I think) that fixes this problem. These models also have soft close with the push to open feature which is a pretty special drawer I use in higher budget Kitchens.

    Following this advice, one will soon realise that it is never the runner at fault but always the sizing, squareness, plumb and level of the drawer and/or carcass.

    I'm in Victoria, I would have been happy to get the runners for you Barry Sumpter, I have Wilson Bradley/Lincoln sentry/Hafele/Nover/Dorsett trade accounts. I'd be more than happy to organise to grab any of you guys whatever you need and it'll get sent to whatever Vic address I add. If anybody is interested? shoot us a pm Regards Ozka

  14. #43
    Join Date
    Jul 1999
    Location
    Glen Iris, Vic, Australia
    Posts
    2,196

    Default

    Thanks for the input gents.
    Had these working for a week or two.
    With decently heavy contents.
    Now it's back to being stuck shut.

    Removed the drawer fitting on one side.
    Worked perfectly on all runnders.

    Took the other one off and will NOT work in any of the runners.

    Man! Thats aggravating.
    Thanks,
    Barry G. Sumpter
    May Yesterdays Tears Quench the Thirst for Tomorrows Revenge

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