Thread: Fastening Plywood to Timber Frame

I would do it all in wall board / sheet rock / gypsum board. Anchor your French Cleats into the studs. While you 'could' anchor the French Cleats to the plywood, I would be concerned for long term. Besides, wall board is cheaper and looks more professional.

Put some fiber glass insulation between shop and office to keep shop sounds down in the office.
Find a reference point that will be accessible after the wall board is up, measure and record the distance to either sides of the studs. You will be able to find them for the screws holding the French Cleats to the wall.

My approach was to line the walls after marking out the studs on the floor then attached 18mm ply sheets over the lined walls with the ply sheets resting on the floor before screwing it to the studs. This gives more flexibity in future years if things change and removing the ply just means a few repairs where the screws were. I have hundreds of kilos hanging from my french cleats and it is all still standing.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

My approach was to line the walls after marking out the studs on the floor then attached 18mm ply sheets over the lined walls with the ply sheets resting on the floor before screwing it to the studs. This gives more flexibity in future years if things change and removing the ply just means a few repairs where the screws were. I have hundreds of kilos hanging from my french cleats and it is all still standing.

Thanks Chris - that's essentially my plan. I suspect I didn't make my query clear enough... what type and style of screw did you use, and how many of them/positions did you screw them on?

My concern on the workshop side is exactly that - I don't want these walls coming adrift from the studs. Hence, if you're happy to share details of the type and number of screws etc, I've a good model to work on

MM.

I've been lining sections of my detached garage with 12mm Ply over freshly installed studs at around 450 to 500mm spacing varies a little for each section along a wall... the ply is screwed to the every stud with screws at 300mm vertical spacing, all ply was drilled with a screw clearance hole and standard 8g x 40mm chipboard screws used into the pine studs. the 40mm length gives around 30mm into the stud and i didn't have to worry about services running through the studs so if that's the case you would pick the correct length to suit.

I'm trying to ensure any french cleats also get screwed to one or more studs

Go for gold with your length of screws if your worried where as 8g is fine for that weight especially if that partition wall hasn't any services going thru it, don't forget construction adhesive glue too. At 350 (yeap that close) - 450 stud centres with lining screwed of at even 150-200mm is more then enough and that's for certain tiled walls, and them screw lengths are 40mm - 50mm is pushing it. Id go anywhere from 300mm if your worried to 400mm with 40-60mm screws 8g coarse screws.
I'd be worried abt the poor bloke and the time it'll take to unscrew that wall apart when you've decided on a change of wall lining.

Mate a chippie I worked with lined his mancave with plywood full sheets hung with a heap of glue and bradds only shot in the rebate of the sheets in the borders he cut as part of the design. It's hard to fully explain in a paragraph or two. The idea he got from a YouTube. Scott brown carpentry. It's an awesome watch.

I'd have to check but I did not use any adhesive because I wanted to be able to remove the panels if necessary and if I remember I will take a photo tomorrow and post it here. I just went out and had a look, I used 8 gauge screws into the top plate of the frame and a few down each edge and none below about half way down each sheet and I am guessing they would have been 75mm long into 100mm Oregon frame, to go any longer they would have to be 10 gauge. I was surprised at how few screws I used TTTT and it has been standing there for about 6 years so I must have done something right. Loading the sheet to the floor is the secret I reckon and most modern framing would not be 100mm rough sawn Oregon. I'd go gyprock in the office unless you really want a feature wall, it looks good and is cheap to install. Bradford now do an acoustic batt which will suppress sound if that is necessary.

Originally Posted by slickmick77

Go for gold with your length of screws if your worried where as 8g is fine for that weight especially if that partition wall hasn't any services going thru it, don't forget construction adhesive glue too. At 350 (yeap that close) - 450 stud centres with lining screwed of at even 150-200mm is more then enough and that's for certain tiled walls, and them screw lengths are 40mm - 50mm is pushing it. Id go anywhere from 300mm if your worried to 400mm with 40-60mm screws 8g coarse screws.
I'd be worried abt the poor bloke and the time it'll take to unscrew that wall apart when you've decided on a change of wall lining.

Mate a chippie I worked with lined his mancave with plywood full sheets hung with a heap of glue and bradds only shot in the rebate of the sheets in the borders he cut as part of the design. It's hard to fully explain in a paragraph or two. The idea he got from a YouTube. Scott brown carpentry. It's an awesome watch.

Edit.. Srry just to clarify when I said go for gold I meant appropriate to your stud thickness. 90mm studs therefore 75mm should suffice.

The complete boards, there are 2 boards 1.2 x 2.4
IMG_2478.jpg

Each board is fixed at the top on a french cleat. Everything could be removed and both boards could then be lifted off the top french cleat.
IMG_2479.jpg

The clamps are hanging off a FC that is screwed to the parent boards
IMG_2480.jpg

Another shot of the clamp FC
IMG_2481.jpg


The clamp cleat where the two boards meet
IMG_2482.jpg


Another perspective on the whole thing
IMG_2483.jpg

Many thanks for the thoughts and useful input & photos, it's very much appreciated!

It seems there is far less physical stress on these than I was imagining, so hopefully this weekend will see a start on this

Will be posting updates in the thread in The Shed sub forum.

If there is any likelihood of water getting onto a shed floor (eg roof leak, sink overflow) then an old chippie recommended not to place water absorbent lining (eg ordinary ply, plaster or vertical lining boards) direct into the floor. Instead leave a 1/2" gap which can be filled (before or after lining) with something waterproof, even a piece of painted wood will do.. The reason is that water travels much faster up end grain than horizontal layers and can over time make a real mess.

It is of course possible to water proof the end of the ply sheet but it's usually difficult to be certain it is truly sealed. I was pleased I took the old chippies advice because within weeks of lining I had a small roof leak that covered one end of the shed floor with water.