Thread: Featherboard question

Hmmm, yes I wondered about that too! Ended up deciding that it was to turn with the screw handle to get extra pressure. If you use it that way NOTHING moves! Also handy to help get it undone again. If I'm wrong it wouldn't be the first time.

Originally Posted by aldav

Hmmm, yes I wondered about that too! Ended up deciding that it was to turn with the screw handle to get extra pressure. If you use it that way NOTHING moves! Also handy to help get it undone again. If I'm wrong it wouldn't be the first time.

I cost $13 for the Featherboard, a push block and 3 push sticks. Now I am sure that I could make a Featherboard. But the fact is that I have not, though I have needed one for a long time and by the time I bought the bits of hardware it would have cost more than $13 anyway. Not so sure about using the bit of metal as a big screw though. That said your guess is better than mine, since I had no idea. One thing I do like is that the push sticks are bright orange. I have been in the lazy habit of cobbling up,something from the scrap pile and then losing it just as fast. That hideous orange will be hard to lose.

I presume you are referring to the bar underneath?

i use the magnetic type but would guess that the bar underneath yours is for placing in the mitre gauge track on your saw table, particularly if it happens to be approx 19mm wide, but I could be wrong also.

Originally Posted by Bob38S

I presume you are referring to the bar underneath?

i use the magnetic type but would guess that the bar underneath yours is for placing in the mitre gauge track on your saw table, particularly if it happens to be approx 19mm wide, but I could be wrong also.

Bob the bar underneath is no problem. It fits into and locks into the mitre track. It is the metal bar on the top that has me beat. It could remove it and the Featherboard would work just the same.

I think the metal strip you refer to is a hold down for when the feather board is used with thin material on a router table.

Had another look at the pix but I can't really see the reason for the top bar - as it will work without it as you say - sorry about that.

If you do find the answer, please post, it could be interesting, as we obviously are missing something.

Ian, correct me if I'm wrong here, but isn't that only going to work (properly) on a specific thickness of timber where the top bar would be parallel to the timber surface? I suppose you could introduce a washer system to raise the top bar up, but without washers if you added say 3mm thickness to the "perfect" thickness timber then the bar would cause undue downward pressure on the edge of the board (or so it looks). Moreover, if it didn't cause the undue pressure then it would be loose and get pushed off the board as it went through the saw.

Or am I missing something?

Now I see - thanks.

Wouldn't have thought of that as I tend to use another feather board in the vertical position attached to the fence to do what is shown.

Originally Posted by FenceFurniture

Ian, correct me if I'm wrong here, but isn't that only going to work (properly) on a specific thickness of timber where the top bar would be parallel to the timber surface? I suppose you could introduce a washer system to raise the top bar up, but without washers if you added say 3mm thickness to the "perfect" thickness timber then the bar would cause undue downward pressure on the edge of the board (or so it looks). Moreover, if it didn't cause the undue pressure then it would be loose and get pushed off the board as it went through the saw.

Or am I missing something?

I haven't used a hold down spring, which is what the blade is, but I would think it is only really needed on thinner timber.
above about 1/2 or 3/4 inch, I would expect that gravity would be sufficient


this is part of Lee Valley's instructions for that type of feather board

Figure 1: Exploded view of featherboard.

Position the spring-action hold-down (arch facing up) at the required distance on top of the wooden feather board.

Set-Up

After you have determined the fence position on your table-saw set-up, place the table-saw locking insert into the surface slot of your table saw so that the relief cut end of the featherboard is in the feed direction of the saw. The featherboard should be approximately 1/4" back from the front (or feed direction) of the saw blade. The extreme point (or toe) of the angled end of the featherboard should be on the left-hand side.


Rotate the featherboard clockwise until it rests snugly against the material you wish to guide along the saw fence. Ensure that the spring hold-down is extended across to reach over and rest effectively over the workpiece before you tighten the knob.


Note: The spring hold-down should be placed so that it does not obstruct the use of a safety push stick to feed the stock through the blade. Also, keep your hands a good distance from the blade.


The material should run freely between the featherboard and the saw fence. The workpiece should not pull back towards you once it has begun to feed through the featherboard.


full instructions: Lee Valley Tools - Featherboard

Got it - thanks Ian. The spring was the missing link.