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Thread: How to file straight
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18th December 2005, 05:25 PM #1GOLD MEMBER
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How to file straight
I know its not really woodwork - but does anyone have any tips on filing straight. When I use a file I usually end up rounding the workpiece slightly. I've tried a jig with remarkably little improvement. Any ideas ?
While we are at it, any ideas on how to clean needle files - the ones with really tiny teeth which are way too small for a file card or wire brush. Ditto rifflers - bigger teeth but still dont seem to suit a file card.
thanks
Arron
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18th December 2005 05:25 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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18th December 2005, 06:35 PM #2
try picking the grot out of the file teeth with a sharp trimming knife
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18th December 2005, 07:54 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
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Rub the file with blackboard chalk before using. This should stop a lot of soft metal sticking to the teeth & make what does stick easier to remove.
As for filing straight - the sensable answer is - lots of practice. Just reduce some off cuts to powder.
The silly reply is - when you find out, let me know They used to call me 'Lightning' - never struck twice in the same place.
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18th December 2005, 08:10 PM #4
Hi Arron,
As Bsrlee said, chalking up a file before use makes it much easier to clean up after use. I find that, sometimes, a small brass bristled wire brush is useful for cleaning a file.
As to filing a level surface, I'd forget jigs & such, and just do a few practice draws before using a file in anger. Use both hands where possibe, one on the handle and one at the end of the file, and draw the file over the workpiece using a square, block of square timber, whatever, close by as a visual reference.
It's probably not realistic to seek a perfectly square edge, but that's why engineers invented milling machines...
Cheers!
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18th December 2005, 08:38 PM #5
I not particularily good with a file, either. Good and bad days. To ensure I'm successful with them, I try to use them only for things I want rounded
However, I do know a trick for re-sharpening files that has worked for me. And tends to clean the crap out of the serrations also.
You, pour battery acid into a tray, lay the files in, leave overnight. Rinse them well with water latter. And what tends to happen is the acid eats away at the sides of the serrations, sharpening them up. Doesn't work with all of them, but most it seems to.
Reminder : the fumes from the solution arn't good. Ventilation a must.
Works for me cause files are expensive, and old files are very cheap cause people think their useless. I buy say 20 blunt files for about $5 at a time. After dipping them all something like 15 of them are sharp enough again for use.
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18th December 2005, 09:21 PM #6Originally Posted by apricotripperDriver of the Forums
Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover
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18th December 2005, 11:37 PM #7
Hi Arron,
I think the other guys have sorted out the cleaning question, and brslee is right about practice for straight, square faces. It can be done, but lots of patience. A file can only ever really leave a flat or a convex surface (that is when you've rolled your action) not like a chisel which is capable of a concave face. Focus on the high spot, and it is possible to slightly flex your file to act more in the centre. Constant checking with a square against a light source and use of marking-out blue or even a thick Artline pen as a witness will ensure you know where the high spots are. Have you heard of draw filing? Thats the way to finish off, and covers a wide area. Clean, sharp files always, and keep them protected, not knocking against each other...the usual way you'd treat a chisel.
I love filing, and will have a go at wood, metals, or bone!
Cheers,Andy Mac
Change is inevitable, growth is optional.
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19th December 2005, 12:06 AM #8Originally Posted by apricotripper
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19th December 2005, 12:59 AM #9
At places like Supa-cheep you can get brass wire wheels with about a 8mm shaft that you can fit in a drill chuck pretty cheep
If you don't have a drill press grip your drill in a vice locked on and run the pin file gently over the spinning brush, running with the serrations
As to filing flat , practise , or if you have time , using a large file 12" or more preferably , grip this flat in a vice and push the job if small enough back and foward over it, should give you a flat surface.
Rgds
Ashore
The trouble with life is there's no background music.
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19th December 2005, 09:22 AM #10Originally Posted by redwood
I just funnel it all back in when I'm done and place the batteries back where I found them ....Love those blokes. Just holla for a Marshel. (seriously they don't care, I asked if I could take a couple of batteries, and the bloke shrugged, and while considering my sanity said 'yeh mate, whatever ! I don't want them..' )
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19th December 2005, 11:51 AM #11
And of course true darksiders make their own screws by filing the threads on a piece of rod, cutting the head slot with a saw.
Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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19th December 2005, 10:38 PM #12
Apparently the oldtimers used to sharpen old files by soaking in a container of, er, p15s.
Smell couldn't be any worse than the sufphuric acid.....couldn't it :confused:
Cheers....................Sean, gotta go sharpen a file
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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19th December 2005, 10:57 PM #13GOLD MEMBER
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I'd be a little reluctant to try the battery acid trick but I've had a lot of success cleaning bits and pieces as well as files using the cheapest white vinegar available from the supermarket. I usually buy it in a 4 litre container which goes a long way. it is quite gentle on metals and cleans up any rusty bits beautifully. The only drawback is that is is not quick - usually takes 24-48 hours to work its magic - and its very safe.
Bob
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19th December 2005, 11:35 PM #14
Another good liquid to try is K-9P is available from the RSPCA I believe the profits go to charity
Ashore
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19th December 2005, 11:39 PM #15
How to file straight.
long deliberate strokes
paralellograme action between the sholders and the hands
correct work height and stance
it is important to level the file on the job and make each single stroke count.
use a sharp file
don't be in a hurry
you are using a file to shape metal this is very different to a sanding action.
hope this helps.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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