Thread: Filler suggestions sought

Originally Posted by david.elliott

What do you guys use?

Timbermate or builders bog, depending on the job. I can’t recall the Timbermate ever softening after a coat of WB finish.
Plastibond is better than builders bog, but a lot more expensive.

Body filler or even plaster filler. If you're getting raised areas from sanding either your pad is too soft, you're pushing too hard, or you're switching to finer grits too soon (or some combination of those); let the weight of the sander and the paper do the work, you should just be guiding it around.

Often use plaster jointing mix as I normally have it out at the same time.
Our last renovation the paint shop recommended RedDevil to patch trim fixings, must say I was impressed and would use again.
Red Devil One Time Ready Mix Filler - Direct Paint

Edit:
Bog all day for big holes and where reshaping is required.

While I can't say that I've ever noticed Timbermate not playing nicely with water-based paint, I won't say that it's not possible.

When the ol' Timbermate is getting a bit dry, I'll often use a small dab of Titebond III PVA glue to bring it back to the desired texture. (Only mixing what I need for the job at hand, of course.)

I have noticed that the result tends to be marginally more moisture resistant - probably due to TB3's makeup - although I wouldn't rely on it as any form of long term moisture barrier.

It may work to reduce moisture take-up while the paint is drying though.

Mind you, for anything larger than minor gap filling it's either timber in-fills or Builder's Bog.

Thanks all,
I have used and still use builders bog for the big ones. And timber inserts. The door I had to put the leadlight in was only a few weeks old and in a bathroom AND did not have the bottom edge painted. Was not till I got it home I saw the state of the MDF facing. Not my problem in reality, however as the last one to touch the door, it became my problem. I used super glue and builders bog to rebuild the fluffed up corner, lots of success.

When my Timbermate gets a little hard I add water to work with it, so that tells me it melts with water. Perhaps I'm not letting it dry long enough. I'll persist with the bog and adjust my sanding regime, thanks for those tips...

About the Red Devil... I remember now seeing a 140 odd youtube playlist of a chap in the USA building a spec house from scratch just to record the process. The painters were incredible, and used Bondo and Spackfilla. Every nail hole got al least three visits with one of those, the whole house was sprayed inside, and the trim got 5 coats and the walls 3. There was a team of 8(?) and they were there for 3 days. Awesome finish. Perhaps I'll try that next time...

David

I'm a sometimes user of Agnew's Water Putty when trying to fill defects before painting. I only really use the coloured Timbermates with a clear finish. Water putty can also dry harder than the surrounding timber.

Originally Posted by Fuzzie

I'm a sometimes user of Agnew's Water Putty when trying to fill defects before painting. I only really use the coloured Timbermates with a clear finish. Water putty can also dry harder than the surrounding timber.

I too am a big fan of Agnew's water putty. Much more usable than builders bog.
Rgds,
Crocy.

Originally Posted by Old Croc

I too am a big fan of Agnew's water putty.
Crocy.

Me Too. But there is a way to use it that took a bit to learn when I first started using it.

I don't like trying to sand it unless its just small fill spots like nail holes. It to hard for the sand paper. I moisten it after its set and scrape it flat on larger fill jobs. Dont rub or sand while its wet or you go to deep. Just whet the scraper levels it at.

I like applying it like a plasterer uses plaster on larger fill jobs . Spread it in and level it off before it sets below the finished height. Come back when set and do that for the second and third go if it needs it.

I add Titebond 3 as well if It needs to be better tempered for use with water.

Its a great filler for adding oxide colours to match timber or colour job but I only use it on the underside of pieces . I don't use it much on the top side which will be polished. Its the filler I use underneath for the nail or screw holes or the loose knotty sections.

I use Agnews Water Putty also. The original pack that I had was a cardboard cylinder with a metal top so showing my age

Another plus for the Agnews putty - no horrid fumes like bog, easy use and cleanup.
Adding a little pva/bondcrete seems to make it set even harder - but dont leave it set too proud, can be a bear to sand.

I've been watching this thread, and interested...

Does the Agnews Water Putty cope with large holes?

I’ve had some termites in skirting boards. The pest guy came in and went digging into various skirting boards looking for the little blighters. (I would have expected him to have used a stethoscope or something, but then this was the first experience of seeing these guys at work. So I had no idea.)

Anyway, I’ve got lots of gouge marks and splinters of wood having been pulled off at various places and various sizes. Do you think Agnews would be able to fill such holes?

Plastibond is your friend especially if you want a fine finish. Takes a bit of practice but using Plastibond and catching it just when it's at the rubbery stage and trimming it off almost to surface level with a razor blade saves you loads of sanding . Another trick is to allow it to harden fully, then cover the repair area with a piece of wide masking tape and sand through the tape with 120 to 240 grit if you really want to go fine, go down to 400 . finally you will only have the adhesive from the tape left . Scrape this away with your finger nail and gently sand the remaining filler away with fine paper till you're satisfied with the result. I'm sure you're aware of this but always sand with a sanding block that will also prevent the "pimple" problem you were talking about. In the beginning sand in one direction then "cross cut" by sanding diagonally across your initial direction of sanding . When you are close to the end stage sand only in a back and forward motion. If you are just slapping paint or some thixotropic finish this doesn't matter a great deal however on a flat high gloss finish it will make all the difference. Timbermate, I find is a bit soft when it dries to get a really good finish on it.

Originally Posted by elanjacobs

Body filler or even plaster filler. If you're getting raised areas from sanding either your pad is too soft, you're pushing too hard, or you're switching to finer grits too soon (or some combination of those); let the weight of the sander and the paper do the work, you should just be guiding it around.

Cornice cement on small >3mm holes and drill out for plugs above that.

Originally Posted by bootes

Another plus for the Agnews putty - no horrid fumes like bog, easy use and cleanup.

I tried this for the first time. Quite impressed. I believe I’m a fan.

Though, there was a smell I noticed as I was mixing. Fumes that are emitted when the water was added. Possibly. I did see bubbles. But I have no idea.

Then I’m thinking of how incredibly fine the chemical is. A powdery dust like talc. I wonder if the smell I was picking up was me breathing in the powder that I’d disturbed as I had scooped it from the tub and dropped it into my mixing container. No idea.

Despite the apparent ‘no horrid fumes’ notion, I think this stuff is best mixed in a well-ventilated location keeping the wind direction in mind while using, or wear a mask.