Thread: Filling Gum Veins

Hi Luke, I wouldn't be cutting around the veins unless they are where you need a joint which would compromise structural strength.Used correctly the gum veins add considerable character to your piece.

There are 2 methods I use;

1.Builders bog turbo, mixed with black cement oxide, or any of the coloured oxides as required.
Sets hard in a few minutes, is very stable and doesnt shrink, it is also easy to sand.

2. West system epoxy, takes much longer to garden but can also be mixed with black or other oxides as required.It is much more expensive than method 1.you can also use it clear so you can see into the veins.
It does lack any real viscosity unless fillers are added, so make sure it can't "escape"

I do the filling first. All the fillings suggested can be sawn, dressed, planed, and sanded, and if you use the hot meld dam method I suggested, you'll need to remove a little of the surface later.

I meant to mention earlier, you can use a pocket knife to remove excess epoxy once it has set. Just shave it off, then sand. I've always used epoxy after thicknessing and final planing and before applying the finish, and I've often used it to highlight a fault rather than hide it, as I like the faults in gums. I used it in wands I made my kids. Some of the turned pieces for the wands were redgum and had faults and voids. Filled them with black epoxy after I'd finished turning, and shaved and sanded it back to the surrounding surface, and told the kids it was dragon's blood. Worked a treat.

Another vote for the casting resin. I made a Jarrah dining table over 20 years ago. There were some quite large gum veins in the top pieces. I filled them with clear casting resin (no pigment) and the resin took on the colour of the wood. I reckon if I'd added black pigment it would have made the veins more obvious. I seem to recall it scraped easily.

Casting resin is cheaper than Techniglue, although the Techniglue is probably more useful for other jobs in the workshop.

I've used 5 minute epoxy for small stuff and overnight stuff for larger.
I have a jar of ebony sanding dust which gives a nice Matt black colour and sands ok and has taken whatever finish I'm using on that job.
Black pigment plus any dark dust will give a similar natural looking effect.
The original araldite in the twin tube despencer is probably cleanest and most economical.
Do a test on a piece of scrap before using it on your finished job.
H.