Thread: filling holes in slabs

If they're large gum vein type holes you can fill them with epoxy casting resin, eg Araldyte M. They then look like gum veins, but the holes are gone. I believe it can be pigmented, but haven't tried it.

You could also use an epoxy adhesive such as Techniglue, which can (and needs to) be pigmented. I'd suggest making it darker than the surrounding timber rather than trying to get an exact match, which you won't.

If you use artists pigment, you need very little. leftovers from minimum amount you can buy will probably be bequeathed to your grandchildren.

Do a search for casting resin to read more info about using it. It sticks like merde to a blanket!

Try casting resin, maybe with some black dye to resemble the sap lines in Redgum.


Al

Thank you both for the suggestions- particularly about colouring the Techniglue resins- the stuff I mixed up dried white and looked dreadful. i have some redish coloured analine dye powder I will mix in.

Gidday Rosethorn

<!--StartFragment -->Epoxy is an excellent gap-filler, and it can be colored to blend with the wood. Sawdust from the same wood as that being repaired can be blended with the freshly mixed epoxy before it hardens. Pigments such as black and burnt umber can also be added to match a dark knot. Fill defects using one epoxy color at a time to create a good match. You may also simulate the natural look of a knot by creating a swirling pattern in the colored epoxy. (Richard Marks DIY.com)

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If you need anymore Info I'll post a Link Rosethorn........Hope this Helps!!!!!!

Regards Lou
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Thanks Lou,thought that it was possible to add sawdust, but you have confirmed it for me-much appreciated.

Rosethorn

Rosethorn noticed you've completed your first couple a posts...................TIME for the INITIATION BwarrrrrrrHAHAHAHA:






Welcome to our Forum


REgards Lou

If you use sawdust, remember to use a fine dust - at least up 180 grit dust from a besltsander. (First time I tried this I think I used wood chunks off my thickenesser thinking "hey, this is sawdust!". Anyway - that a a long while ago..)

Brickies colouring oxides from the hardware are also cheap & excellent epoxy resin colouring agents. Cheap and lots of different colours that can be mixed to generate a good match. You don't need much, just a pinch. You'll need to practice before getting the exact colour you're chasing. (Some big gum veins look OK with just a clear / transparent resin fill).

But to back up the other comments .... resins / epoxy resins are fantastic filling agents for holes, knots, gum veins, cracks, splits, etc etc. You need to work them in with a spatula. Ovefill a little then just sand back to level the next day.

Thanks for the tip Richard?, I've routed out the first lot I put in- cause it looked terrible and am now sanding to get some dust. Am I right in thinking West systems turns out white when you mix it?
regards Rosethorn

Rosethorn heres a link to David Marks in Action..........Might help you out with some of the process:

http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/ww_oth...556267,00.html

Regars Lou

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Rosethorn, link for westsystem epoxy resin below.

West System is clear / translucent by itself. But if you add the microfibre thickening agent, it will go whiteish. By itself, West System is very runny. Which is great for filling holes, etc. But if you're buttering up board edges or filling mortice & tennon joints, it's nice to have a glue that's a little more viscous. So WestSystem market their thickening agent. But if you add fine sawdust, that will thicken it also.

Read the safety instructions. I know guys that have developed huge resin allergies because they didn't wear disposable rubber gloves etc. And wear a dust mask if / when you're mixing the microfibre thickener.

http://www.westsystem.com/

Richard

What Richard said about gloves - try disposable vinyl ones. Also wear an apron and have a bottle of metho and rags ready to clean up spills & smears quickly.

For small holes and cracks various forms of Supa Glue are excellent but too expensive for larger holes.


Ross

Lou,Alex&Richard,
Thankyou all for your suggestions,links and hints-it helps a lot.
cheers Rosethorn

My preference is never to try and match the colour to the timber. It is particularly difficult as timber changes colour over time and with finishes. Rather I prefer to match the colour to a natural defect, such as a knot. Failing that, I'd rather just colour it black - never clear. Use 5-minute epoxy.

Regards from Perth

Derek