Thread: filling timber window frames

If you filling with bog to paint and sell then go for it. If its for you to live in I'd go for doing it properly.

care to enlighten me on what "properly" means?

Hi Koshari, I'm in the same predicament, at this very moment. New Wooden Window, Fitted : $1450. New Aluminum Window, Fitted, $1600. So I went to Berwick ( Vic. ) Swap Last Sat. & bought some Bog @ $8 ea. So I bought 2 = $16. I was quite happy with that. Bunnys want $ 43. They are not the same Product & this one is called " Auto One" Lightweight Body Filler, 2 Part, 450g. I'm assured this seller will be at the Great Southern Swap Meet, Ballarat Airfield,( Vic ) Sat. - Sun. 24th. - 25th. Feb. 2012.

Koshri, Auto body filler will not stick to the timber for very long , timber swells and shrinks, with the moisture , the auto bog will last for a couple of months then a crack will open between the bog and wood , THEN YOU ARE BACK WHERE YOU STARTED. clean out the damaged timber, and rot by cutting it out, then fill the gap with new timber glued in with epoxy resin, or a GOOD QUALITY WATERPROOF GLUE. sand prime and paint. this is the best way for a long term fix. Jeff

Unfortunately, rot in window frames is usually dry rot. In other words the timber has been getting wet and then drying out in an ongoing cycle. Dry rot is fungal and therefore has spore which can penetrate well into the timber beyond the evident rot. This means that to do the job properly you would need to cut out the rot plus any spalting and then a bit of good wood to be on the safe side. You may now be running seriously short of frame. Small pockets of rot are worth digging out but larger, deeper areas are better replaced.

just a revisit on what i ended up using,

the bottom sill i removed any compromised material with a wire wheel, chisel and brush and filled with agnews water putty,

Agnew's Water Putty: Filler for wood, plaster, concrete and more

the 2 outer sashes were in reasonable condition and a little bit of filler did the trick on them, the middle sash however was beyond salvation to i manufactured a complete sash out of h3 treated pine and removed the pain of glass from the existing one and used sellys putty to place it in the new sash.

all areas i worked on i then sealed with oil based primer and went over the whole frame with solaguard (except for within the sash cavity's where the window slides).

all in all it came up pretty good and i can only keep an eye on it and see how it goes.