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Thread: Filling in Wood Cavities
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24th February 2006, 07:26 PM #1New Member
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Filling in Wood Cavities
Hello,
for my year 12 major design project i am building a poker table.
i am still in the research and experimental stages of it and have come to a problem...
The stand for the table i have turned as i desired and left a little block where i have routed/carved out the four suits of cards (hearts, diamonds, clubs and spades) Now i would like to fill these cavities with some thing. I have tried cutting out the shape from another coloured wood but have found that it is near impossible to get it with out any gaps and using putty ruins the asthetics of it all. Some one in my class mentioned to fill it with enamol (but i think this wood ruin the wood) i had another idea of cutting coloured perspec's to shape (black and red acording to the suit) and using an iron and some thing to place over the perspecs to get it to melt in the cavity.
I was would just liketo know if anyone has any other ideas or if my existing ideas work or how i could better them would be greatly apriciated.
thanks in advance
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24th February 2006 07:26 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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24th February 2006, 08:04 PM #2.
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Welcom to the forum, sounds like a great year 12 project you have. What is the timber you are using? Light timber would suit a liquid epoxy with both black and red artist watercolors for the suits, and darker colored timber would look good with a thin sheet brass. Its often a good idea to cut the inlay first then the shallow rebate for it to fit. What kind of table is it? I m currently making a 2.5 x 1.2 mt Texas Holdem table with prime scottish leather padded suround and Brazilian Walnut drinks inlay and special "speed" felt playing surface. Wont be finished for another two - three months but ill post a pic when its done. Can you post a pic of your table for us to see when its finished. Good luck
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24th February 2006, 08:24 PM #3You've got to risk it to get the biscuit
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Originally Posted by LignumS T I R L O
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24th February 2006, 09:08 PM #4
Coloured epoxy resin.
- Andy Mc
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24th February 2006, 09:13 PM #5Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!!
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25th February 2006, 06:11 AM #6Senior Member
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West System epoxy with colouring oxides added / mixed to match the colour you need.
Richard
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2nd March 2006, 05:15 PM #7New Member
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Thank you for the posts.
At the moment i bought "shelleys Plasti-bond/hardener" im going to try it out tomorrow but i was wondering where i can get coloured oxides to mix with as mentioned in the previous post
Thank you so far.
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2nd March 2006, 07:03 PM #8
Most epoxies will happily accept water paints as a colourant. Sure oxides work well, but may be harder to get in the colours and quantities you need.
Just rip along to the next art class at school and trouser a couple of those little squeezy tubes of paint. WATER not OIL!
Check out the babes whilst you're there, as I remember all the good looking and sociable ones did Art and may look kindly on a horny handed woodworker.Bodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
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2nd March 2006, 08:58 PM #9
Bodgy, that is quite simply the most worldly and spiritual advice I have ever seen on the forum!
Sure we can sharpen planes, cut dovetails, pick different timbers at 200 metres ... through concrete, work a forge, repair a wok, but when it comes to life ..... ahhh Bodgy, you've nailed it!
Fletty
PS will be sending a greenie but I fear I might be out of rations!
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3rd March 2006, 06:20 AM #10Senior Member
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The colouring oxides should be available at most hardwares. Ask for "brickies colouring oxides" - I think they're mostly used for tinting cement mortar. They come in various container sizes. Buy the smallest. You only need a smidge to get the epoxy or plastibond coloured. Buy as many different colours as you can. You need to experiment a little to get the exact colour you want. If I'm filling gum veins - I use pure black. If you want to match the wood colour, you'll probably need to mix oxides. For example, for Jarrah I add a small pinch of red oxide (from the end of a popsicle stick) and stir that into the resin mix (with a metal spatula). Then I add an even smaller amount of black oxide. Mix well and you have liquid Jarrah. Over- fill all the cavities. Leave overnight if epoxy. Then sand flat.
I also use the Selleys plastibond a lot. The colouring oxides work well, even with the initial grey coloured plastibond. (Plastibond works very well for minor holes & defects - especially where I want a QUICK fix. However, if you have big defects & cavities, I would strongly recommend using Wext System epoxy.) Whatever you do, stay away from the wood putty's, especially for big defects. They eventually dry and crack. Awful stuff.
Good Luck with it
Richard
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3rd March 2006, 09:03 AM #11Originally Posted by flettyBodgy
"Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams
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4th March 2006, 01:10 PM #12
I know around here, the sell different colors of wood puddy. Maybe you could take some of that and fill them in, then sand over it
Farmall Teen
"No farmers, no food"
"Money talks, bull sh*t walks"
"If it ain't hard, it ain't worth a sh*t"
"It's better to be hated for you are than be loved for who you not"- Van Zant
"You've got to stand for somethin, of you'll fall for everthing"
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