Thread: fitting hinges

Hi Arthur,

I would also be interested in advice about how to install butt hinges. I have made several small boxes with butt hinges and I can never get them straight so that the lids close properly. The instructions on the packets make it look so easy.

Anyway, I have given up using butt hinges for the time being.

Not much help to you though, but your not alone.

Ivor

There are routing books and videos around that offer up the making/using jigs for cutting hinge inserts.
Check your local library.

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Johnno

Hi Arthur
Heres an alternative I've found that by clamping your doors together (in a bench vice) you can run a shallow rebate through both with a jig and a small router( I use a laminate trimmer as its easier to handle!) to the depth of the arm of the hinge.Dont usually rebate the arm going onto the carcase as this will give you your gap space around the doors.With this method you only see the rebate going thru the doors when u have them right open (not too often!)Its quite neat and easy to set up. Hope this helps!



[This message has been edited by Biggles (edited 25 June 2002).]

Biggles,

how do you go about doing a rebate with a flush cutter ? Are you talking about a top or bottom mount bearing ?

I can't quite fathom what you are trying to explain. Please elaborate

Cheers Ray

I find the easiest way is to lie half the hinge on the door stile. Trace around it so you you know where to cut. Then using a laminate trimmer with a rebate cutter (no bearing) and set the depth of cut using the trimmers adjustable fence to just the waste side of your mark. Then set the height of cut to the thickness of one door flap plus a bit. Usually the best way to work that out is to open the hinge so the two flaps are parrallel with each (anothers words in the closed position) this will leave a gap in-between the two flaps. Set your height of cut to the thickness of one flap plus that gap & you end up with a perfect gap between the door stile & carcuss. After routing this out basically freehand with the aid of the fence. you need to trim the cornors up with a chisel to sqaure the rebate to allow the hinge to fit in.

I also don't rebate the hinges into the carcuss. To fit the screws is fairly easy. I just use an awl (sp?) to centre the drill bit. Its only basic measuring to work out where to put the screws if you want to get technical. But I just usually put the door in place. Open it and then mark the hinge holes onto the carcuss.

I would suggest you do a few practise runs on some scrap first till you get the hang of it. This way you don't run the risk of damaging your pride & joy.

Cheers & HTH.

Shane.

PS. a handy hint is to turn the hinge upside down when marking out. This rests the hinges barrell against the doors stile allowing you to mark the hinge flap on the stile edge.

G'day
I do virtually the same as shane, except when fitting, I put a pencil line roughly where the hinges will go on the cabinet, then measure the distance from the top of the door to the centre of the top hinge centre hole. Add door gap (1mm) then drill a pilot hole and attach door. Check if height is ok, then drill the centre hole on the line through the hinge hole on the bottom hinge. Minor adjustments can be made by drilling the remaining holes (one at a time) off centre in the direction the door needs to go, start the screw, loosen the other/s and drive home.
cheers
Rod

Originally posted by zathras:
Biggles,

how do you go about doing a rebate with a flush cutter ? Are you talking about a top or bottom mount bearing ?

I can't quite fathom what you are trying to explain. Please elaborate

Cheers Ray

Hi Ray
In my reply I should have said that I use a straight cutter without a tracer bearing, using the base of trimmer against a straight edge.My jig often consists of only a fimly held hand square when using a trimmer and sharp cutter though a more elaborate one could be made if you use the same hinges often.Once hinge placements are marked (usually with sharp knife)if held firm should give acceptable results.
My apoligies