Thread: How to fix SCOTIA to Plaster walls???

You don't say whether your walls are lined with plaster-board (aka dry wall) or are rendered. It makes a difference!

I'm guessing it's most likely plaster board?

I dislike using scotia, quad or beadings as skirting, not only because of it's 'look' but because it is physically difficult to install and, because of the small "gluing surface," prone to separation afterwards... as you've found.

But sometimes you don't have a real choice, eh?

I've never tried contact cement (and would never have thought of it!) but in the past I have used jointing plaster to apply them in exactly the same way I'd apply plaster cornices.

To hold 'em in position while the plaster dries, I first pre-determine where all the wall studs are - typically between 450-700mm apart (I'm not saying this is legal spec; just that this is what they turn out to be in practice! ) - then use 45-60mm wire brads to pin the scotia/whatever to each stud.

With 20mm scotia, I heartily recommend pre-drilling all the holes to ameliorate any potential splitting.

It is not necessary to punch the brad heads in just yet... they can be left a tad proud while your adhesive dries and punched in/puttied over a few days later.

PS: It is a really, really good idea to wipe down the plaster with a damp, clean cloth before applying any adhesive. If using glue you'll need to wait for this to dry as you don't want to trap moisture in there! However, if using jointing plaster it's a non-issue and the dampness (damp, not wet!) can actually improve the binding properties.

Proviso: this method works for me, but it is still a bit of a kluge so your mileage may vary. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread, just so I can see any alternatives that may be offered and see if they can make my life easier the next time I'm faced with a similar problem.

Hi

CLARIFICATION.

thanks for your reply. Sorry, I am not all that familiar with the correct terminology. it may vary around the country. The walls are rendered or plastered. All internal walls are brick - there are no stud walls in the house at all - so no boards of any description.

They used a grey cement type plaster first and then finished it with a white fine finish. So good you could almost leave it 'As is' until the rest of the tradies come in and knock the crap out of it, but that's another story.
The house was completed in August 2012 so the plaster is well and truly dry.

Rendered brick.
Paint glue area with dilute bondcrete to seal the plaster then reglue.

Originally Posted by DavidG

Rendered brick.
Paint glue area with dilute bondcrete to seal the plaster then reglue.

Hi We used a Dulux sealer on the walls because we were told that if we didn't and then painted the paint would peel. Would you use the dilute Bondcrete as well?

Ta
Bill

Sound like the plaster is powdery.
The sealer did its job for painting but you need a deeper bond.
Given that it is already sealed the you may need to use some sort of mechanical fastener.

Originally Posted by DavidG

Sound like the plaster is powdery.
The sealer did its job for painting but you need a deeper bond.
Given that it is already sealed the you may need to use some sort of mechanical fastener.

Cheers David. I'm going to hang around and maybe other options will surface. There's no shortage of knowledge on here. I am hopeful that a non-mechanical solution can be found because we still hope to fit a better quality skirting later. I will still keep your suggestion on the counter.

Ta
bill

GREATLY APPRECIATE YOUR COMMENTS B.S.

Apart from running a knife along the top edge of the SB and removing the underlying plaster and replacing it with a better plaster, then I have run out of ideas.

If you are going to put a beter quality SB on later why bother doing a temporary job now?

You have seen the problems with the present set up. Putting Scotia on now and having to
remove it later will, IMHO, cause more trouble than it is worth.

It's only an aesthetic thing, not structural, so just wear it for a while.

As the plaster is soft, it may be better to drill and plug the wall, then use nails as you would with a timber frame. By starting the nails through the SB while in position, it will mark the wall for drill point. Do all nails then remove the SB, drill and plug the holes, replace the SB and drive off the already started nails.

Good Morning Bill

My house has 130 year old plaster over brick walls and I have glued 65 mm wooden picture rails in place using cornice cement. Some are up to 20 years old and carry quite heavy picture frames without letting go.

Also, with picture rails, and presumably scottia, it is much easier to pre-paint it than to paint it later in situ. I have always used water-based paints inside - commonly TasPaints or Solarguard - and have had no problems with adhesion.



Fair Winds

Graeme

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

Good Morning Bill

My house has 130 year old plaster over brick walls and I have glued 65 mm wooden picture rails in place using cornice cement. Some are up to 20 years old and carry quite heavy picture frames without letting go.

Also, with picture rails, and presumably scottia, it is much easier to pre-paint it than to paint it later in situ. I have always used water-based paints inside - commonly TasPaints or Solarguard - and have had no problems with adhesion.



Fair Winds

Graeme

THANKS GRAEME - I'm going to give that a go... I will do a test strip in the morning. I'll let you know how I go. Thanks again Bill

Originally Posted by artme

If you are going to put a beter quality SB on later why bother doin a temporary job now?

You have sse the problems with the present set up. Putting Scotia on now and having to
remove it later will, IMHO, cause more trouble than it is worth.

It's only an aesthetic thing, not structural, so just wear it for a while.

And while I'm at it......... I might tell the wife to forget the make-up and wait until she can afford a full make-over........ and then I'll book my own funeral...BS