Thread: How Do I Cut this Chidori Joint - Part 1

Background

The Chidori joint was traditionally used in a wooden puzzle for children. Apparaently it was a recognised craft and the Chidori makers did a 12 year apprenticeship - I found one You-Tube of a gentleman sitting cross legged and carving one with and adze! Absolutely no glue or metal fittings (screws or nails) are used.

Here are the three components, note two are identical, and their order of assembly. Rather tricky, but so simple:


Chidori Assembly Sequence JPEG.jpg

In assembly, the trick is in the alignment of the piece with the round section and that final quarter twist.

If the joints are two tight, then you cannot assemble it. If it is too loose then it does not stay locked. Precision needed.


More to Come - Part 3.

Scaling Up

These have been up scaled to furniture size, as in these modular shelving units (available in Australia) which are expandable - held together by dovetails (horizontally) and dowells (vertically).


Chidori Assembly Sequence JPEG 2.jpg
Now Part 4.

Giant Upscaling

It has also been upscaled to an architectural level as in this museum.


Chidori Assembly Sequence JPEG 3.jpg


My Challenge

I have been attempting to cut the Chidori joints into 25 mm square timber, so far with limitted success. The difficulty is in precisely cutting the piece with the round sector - the diameter of the dowel must be precise, the shoulders must be smooth and precise, and the longitudinal alignment must be precise. My turning is not accurate enough. Acuracy ideally to within 0.1 mm.

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions or references. I have searched extensively and have found very little.


Thank You

Graeme

The "dowel" doesn't need to be completely round; just rounded in spots.

It's essentially a three-piece burr. Here's a link with a large-scale picture of the cross section of the "dowel": http://members.home.nl/arie.brederode/3pieceburr.html

Cheers,
Joe

Thanks Joe

That is a similar, but not identical joint. It is also a less stable joint in that the points of the "rounded triangle" do not actually touch the adjacent surfaces when in the locked position.

The true Chidori joint uses a precise round dowel that bears against all four adjacent surfaces at all times during the final assembly - rotation and locked phases.

The critical question still remains: How do you cut that locking dowel with sufficient precision?



Fair Winds

Graeme