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  1. #1
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    Jul 2014
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    Default Fixing a mirror into a frame

    I need to fix a mirror into a rebated frame. There will be plywood backing board behind the mirror. Because I'm very clever, I didn't give myself much room in the depth of the rebate or thickness in the frame of the mirror to use a mechanical fastner other than some tiny nails. There is about 10mm from the back of the mirror to the end of the rebate, which will be filled with a 6mm ply back then a 6mm cleat glued to the back.

    I was thinking some construction adhesive or one of the hybrid adhesive-sealant products would be the way to go. My main concern is the silvering on the mirror being discolored by whatever adhesive I use - any advice on products that have worked for you would be appreciated.

    frame.jpg

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    South Australia
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    Default

    I have always used Loctite PL 520 or Sellys also make a version of liquid nails that is mirror safe

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Default

    Neutral cure silicone

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    6,973

    Default

    There is mirror glue out there, I think?

    But basically you need a non acidic glue for the reason you pointed out, that it will show through the silver on the mirror.

    Double sided tape might also work.

    Cheers Matt

  6. #5
    Join Date
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    Neutral cure silicone
    This.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
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    Default

    As stated by others, neutral cure silicone is used to hang frameless glass mirrors to walls in most new homes and you need to smash them to get them off or if you are lucky can cut them off with piano wire.

    If you are still concerned have a look at the various silicones on offer at the hardware store and you will see that some are noted for mirror use.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Perth WA
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    2,035

    Default

    I would not use a backing at all nor would I use any adhesive/silicon, doing this may cause condensation between the mirror and ply and thus deteriorate the mirror. All that is needed is some 12mm brads pressed (finger pressure) against the back of the mirror and tapped in to the frame say 3 to 4 brads per side... it ain't going to go anywhere.
    Experienced in removing the tree from the furniture

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    Default

    Thanks for the confirmation gents. A neutral cure silicone it shall be.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rod1949 View Post
    I would not use a backing at all nor would I use any adhesive/silicon, doing this may cause condensation between the mirror and ply and thus deteriorate the mirror. All that is needed is some 12mm brads pressed (finger pressure) against the back of the mirror and tapped in to the frame say 3 to 4 brads per side... it ain't going to go anywhere.
    The mirror is going next to the front door so I don't think condensation will be a concern. That said, I have left gaps where there is no silicone or liquid nails. Unfortunately my black bean stock was a bit warped so my finished thickness is around 9mm for the frame. I've got another mirror that I hung using keyholes in the frame - but with this mirror I wasn't sure that the frame would be able to support the mirror just by itself as the joints in this one are mitres with (small) dominos and the keyhole frame had bridle joints at each corner. Hence my wanting a backer board and a cleat to hang the mirror, so the weight of the mirror can be spread out over the 1.2m length of the frame.

    In case it helps someone else - the mirror is 'glued' to the frame using Bostik V60, a neutral cure structural silicone. I taped off the area the backer board would fit into in the rebate so I could then have a clean surface to liquid nails the 6mm ply backer board into. The 6mm cleat and spacer were then liquid nailed to the backer and clamped and weighed down for 48 hours. The wall part of the cleat was screwed into two studs and four 20kg plasterboard anchors.

    It's been two weeks and nothing has given way, and the frame has remained square with no sag, so I'm calling this one a win (for now).

    IMG_20200427_224251.jpg

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