Thread: How to flatten curved bed slats

Jill

I have made a number of beds over the years (some I've actually lied in). They include doubles, queens and kings as well as singles and bunk beds.

Anything from a double up has always had a centre rail. For a double the minimum centre rail would be 100 x 50 HW. In pine, say, 125 x 50. Depending on the depth of your bed timbers you can taper each end down to 100mm if neccessary with no significant loss of strength.

If you want to rectify the sag as inexpensively as possible just re-use your existing slats, although you could go down Ticky's path.

Remember all this is hidden so it does not have to be really sophisticated. Simple brackets will suffice.

Just a comment of mattresses for different bed types: I believe that was a furphy. The exception would be a water bed.

Regards
Paul

Hi everyone

I work in bedding retail managing warranty claims and my advice is to whip up a basic centre rail. Nothing fancy as there is no requirement for lateral support, just a length of pine and two or three legs ( or the ends can be hung from the header and footer if preferred). This can be supported by placing under the slats and then just putting a few screws though the slats into the rail. I would be careful using a solid base like mdf as this can result in reduced ventilation to the mattress. I have seen cases where very expensive mattresses have been completely ruined by mould by putting them on solid bases. Also the manufacturer can and will void your warranty in these cases. No offense intended Steve, your build looks great and this issue does not effect all types of mattresses.



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Danny