Thread: Floating Entertainment Unit - Beginner help needed

not to everyone's tastes but certainly have a look at buying a pocket hole jig (bunnings sell them now i think). youtube them as there are tons of videos on them and they're very beginner friendly and very strong

might cost a few dollars extra but most bunnings can cut your panels to size in nice straight long cuts as well if you give them the dimensions



you will definitely need to aim for getting a few screws into studs so a back panel will help with that, and you could use pocket holes from the back into the top, bottom and sides to stop the whole thing racking (racking = being able to wobble side to side like flimsy furniture does). As much as you say its only going to hole a little weight, kids and random people don't realise this and grab, climb, place extra weight on it so you don't need it ripping out of the wall.

I would just do butt joints with the long edge grain showing.

Thanks Havabeer69,

I was debating on the back panel but I think it will just make life easier regarding mounting - make the piece stupider and look good from the front as well - more timber!

I look at the pocket holes at Bunnings today - I have seen some videos online regarding pocket holes but it's odd why there is much division about it - is it a cosmetic thing regarding how they can look from the front of the piece if open or something? Why such a love hate club going on?

Cheers

Originally Posted by Sminimori

I look at the pocket holes at Bunnings today - I have seen some videos online regarding pocket holes but it's odd why there is much division about it - is it a cosmetic thing regarding how they can look from the front of the piece if open or something? Why such a love hate club going on?

Like anything, there are times when they're appropriate and times when there are better options. Mainly for structural reasons; a pocket hole jig is still just screwing two pieces together and the strength of the joint is all in the screws, rather than in the construction of the joint.

The advantage of 'em is their simplicity and speed of use, but some people take things too far and use 'em when definitely not appropriate, resulting in... dubious quality pieces. Naturally, their are 'purists' who think they're the devil's work and every joint should be painfully laboured over.

The whole love-hate thing is really just the two ends of the people spectrum loudly declaiming their opinions... I suspect that most woodworkers would use one if they had one, but there are other, more traditional methods to do the same job which don't need a jig. So it's low down in their 'to buy' priorities.

And the more professional users who do have and use 'em do so without feeling the need to tell the world their opinions of 'em.

Hi Sminimori.
Here's a possible way to build what you want.
Getting the panel ripped at Bunnings as havabeer69 said into the widths you need would be a good idea if You can. If you prepare a cutting list and get the lot ripped and docked to accurate widths and lengths then even better.
If the cuts are clean enough you may be able to just sand them good enough for the finish to be used on the front edges and for joints.
Otherwise if the cuts are to rough or if your ripping down to size with a jigsaw then you would probably need to plane the edges.
That's fine if your adding a plane or three and sharpening gear like a grinder and stones to your shopping list.

If I was doing the simplest strong method for a box to screw to a wall out of solid wood and minimal joinery then I think screwing the box together is a good idea. If it were Plywood or chipboard Id suggest nailing it. Faster and smaller holes to patch up . But solid at that thickness has some power if it does the normal thing of moving around as solid does. And screws are better at stopping that movement.
I'm not a fan of Pocket screws though. Another way is with the wood cut and prepared clean and accurate, glue your box up and clamp it together. Wipe off all glue with a damp rag and dry it off. After the glue is well set take it out of clamps and drill through the top and bottom to screw the piece together as well. Your own homemade pocket method. Three or four screws at each end join . Because the screws are going through the top and bottom and pulling it to the sides its the reverse of pocket screwing and stronger. The screw heads need to be set in for this so a hole wide enough for the heads to go under the surface needs to be drilled. I would use bugle screws from Bunnings and a spade bit for this preparation . You then have to plug the holes after the screws are driven in . Just on the top if you like. Leave the bottom unless you think it will be noticed. Id do that by sawing out some of the same timber used and make matching grain tapered plugs to fill the holes with a sharp chisel . And finish them off flush. Or of you want you could go shopping again for a plug cutter to suit your drill.
Then fit your back in the hole if your using that and glue it in and either screw it the same or just through nail it at the ends if its not holding heaps of weight like you say . The glue will hold the top and bottom well by itself if its fitted well. A good way of nailing like this is to pre drill the nail holes with a matching drill bit or one slightly under the nail size. Something like 65mm x 2mm bullet head nails would be good . And a nail punch to punch them under with the hole to be filled later with coloured filler. Once again fit and glue then do the nailing and punching after its dry if you can.

If you didn't want to fit a back and want to hang the unit from threaded rod sticking out of the studs in your wall there is a way if your game to try. If you have studs in the right area which you should, you could possibly hang it on two or four of these and then drill larger locating holes in the back of your 26mm wood and glue it onto these rods. It d take some carefull marking out and would need to be held in place while the glue dries . I wouldn't use glue but would use a fast setting more stiff filler . Or somebody may suggest something better for this .

Or another way. You could just fix a type of French cleat which fixes to the wall and fits a matching piece you would have to make and fit to the under side back of your top.

Rob

Edit . I just re read your first post. I have no idea how good these Nano blades cut things. No, I just went and had a quick look . It doesn't look to flash if your thinking of ripping all that 26mm board down with that. Id say after that first quick look that It wont work.
And your painting the unit ? Then filler and paint over the holes rather than Plug them with solid wood.

Cheerio .

Sminimori

Have you considered hanging the speakers directly on the wall? Then you can use the shadow box for other things

Originally Posted by auscab

... Or another way. You could just fix a type of French cleat which fixes to the wall and fits a matching piece you would have to make and fit to the under side back of your top. ...

A French cleat would probably be the easiest method of attaching the shadow box to the wall. One little trick for mounting them is to put a screw in one end a little loosely, put level on top, pivot until absolutely level, tighten screw, check still level and then drill the second screw hole.

... If you didn't want to fit a back and want to hang the unit from threaded rod sticking out of the studs in your wall there is a way if your game to try. ...

I am glad you qualified this, Rob. It would almost certainly look the best if very well executed. But I do not think it is a task for a newbie; the required level of precision is just too high.

Originally Posted by Sminimori

... In the last week l have bought ... a Bosch nano blade advancecut (which l think is a bit like an evolved jig saw) ...

Sorry, but that Bosch nano blade advancecut was probably not a good choice for you, Sminimori, for a couple of reasons:

• safety issues with two small children,
• it will not cut straight or accurately and
• newbies need all the help they can get.

I will do a second post on tools.

Learning: You need to learn the basics as fast as possible and there are three overlapping choices:

• friends & relatives who do woodworking and home repairs,
• men's shed; some do not really welcome women - visit several and see which appeals most to you,
• local TAFE - consider introductory course.

Tool acquistion: This is an edited transcript of what I did - all the stupid mistakes are edited out. Get the best quality stuff you can afford - cheap is expensive! Used in good workable condition is usually the best buy - you do not yet know enough to restore the others.

B&D Workmate - They are cheap and incredibly useful - the older ones are much better made than current ones, and a little better designed - buy used. Sources: Gumtree, auctions, tip-shop, op-shops, second hand dealers.

Bench top - I laid a flush panel door across my Workmates as a temporary work bench. If I wanted anny guides or jigs, I just screwed them direct to the bench top with self tapping screws. When the bench got too daggy, I turned it over, then got another. My tempoarary bench was so useful then I used them for over 20 years. Damaged doors are available from door retailers for $10-20. Sources: Retailers, architectural fittings yards, Gumtree.

Saw horses - make a pair so you can put your bench top on them and free up your Workmates for proper use. Then make another pair to use as saw horses.

Triton - the Triton Workcentre 2000 is much easier to adjust than the Mk 3. You should get a good one for $100 or less - more if they package a circular saw and/or router - check for completeness - parts are expensive. They are a great learning toool and quite versatile - view the videos. Sources: Forum sales, Gumtree.

Sharpening - "scary sharp" is the best and cheapest way to learn to sharpen tools - sharp is essential. Google it. Later you may progress to something else.

Honing guide - one is essential, IMO, until you really learn what a sharp blade looks like. Veritas is best but $$$'s. Sources: Forum sales, Gumtree.

Hand tools - hasten slowly, until you know what you will need. Quality used is much better than junk new. Sources: Forum sales, Gumtree, auctions, tip-shop, op-shops, dealers.

Electric tools - hasten very slowly. The Triton will cover a lot of roles, and if you join a mens shed then you will have access to their quality equipment and brains trust.

Forum - ask questions.....

And - Welcome to the wonderful world of wood.