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Thread: Floating Tennons
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9th July 2005, 01:05 AM #16Originally Posted by Richardwoodhead
I have used a lot of all the above methods and would never consider using either Biscuits or dowles where strength is an issue or where the joint is racked or stressed.
I will also say that in my pedantic opinion that the apeal of "an easier way" leads only to disaster. If you have put in the effort to learn how to do something properly keep doing it that way!
RossRoss"All government in essence," says Emerson, "is tyranny." It matters not whether it is government by divine right or majority rule. In every instance its aim is the absolute subordination of the individual.
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9th July 2005 01:05 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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9th July 2005, 05:18 AM #17Originally Posted by Different
Therefore you should use full M&T
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9th July 2005, 07:02 AM #18
Bob,
You are implying that floating tenons are inferior to traditional tenons. I don't believe that that is the case. If floating tenons are properly made, i.e if they are about 1/3 the thickness of the rail in which they are used, they are just as strong as traditional tenons.
Rocker
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9th July 2005, 11:16 AM #19
It would be interesting to see a proper test to destruction.
Rocker, I don't have a position on loose tenons.
The statement was
......... the apeal of "an easier way" leads only to disaster. If you have put in the effort to learn how to do something properly keep doing it that way!
I merely pointed out the extension of that philosophy , anything that may be easier is not traditional and ought to be avoided.
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9th July 2005, 11:41 AM #20Senior Member
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Thanks for the feedback. There's probably a "time & place" for all the various joinery options. For myself, with post & rail tables and other structural joints, it feels safer to make an old fashion M&T. But I can see that a large floating tenon is probably just as strong. I've been making cabinet panel doors using M&T on the style & rails and am thinking biscuits would probably be adequate.
I route the mortice then rough out the tenon using a combination of radial arm saw (RAS) & panel saw. After reading these posts I'm definitely looking into a horizontal router table set-up. That sounds a lot easier and more accurate. It can be frustrating & time consuming to get the RAS set just right to cut the tenons. (Although, once set up, I can whiz through LOTS of tenons if I'm doing a big job / lots of tenons).
Anybody have any links to a good horizontal router table set-up? Are there any commercial options? Can a spindle moulder be adapted to do the same thing?
Richard
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9th July 2005, 01:18 PM #21
The Fine Woodworking joint test article is the April 2001 issue (No. 148), p. 74 ff). The results go something like the attached.
If joint strength is the dominant factor, traditional M&Ts would be the way to go.Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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9th July 2005, 04:21 PM #22
Richard
a spindle moulder can cut a tenon (to thickness anyway) either using a dedicated tenoning head or a pair of blades with appropriate spacer between. You'd need a sliding table set up and a hood type guard in order to do it safely.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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9th July 2005, 04:58 PM #23
Richard,
I find the quickest and easiest way of cutting regular tenons is using a dado set with a spacer, and a table-saw tenoning jig running in the mitre slot. Once you have fine-tuned the thickness of the spacer, you can cut accurate tenons in a single pass.
Rocker
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9th July 2005, 09:22 PM #24
What timber is the best for the tenon?
Do you use a timber that will swell (as a biscuit)?
How about some dense hardwood for strength?
Maybe just use the same stock that the mortice is in.Specializing in O positive timber stains
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9th July 2005, 11:28 PM #25Originally Posted by echnidna
Also I have not "answered my own question" I am a complete convert to M&T but Sometimes a floating tennon can be more practical to cut than an integral one. For example try cutting a tennon on the end of a 2.4 m long 2 x 4 or some such big hunk of timber.
RossRoss"All government in essence," says Emerson, "is tyranny." It matters not whether it is government by divine right or majority rule. In every instance its aim is the absolute subordination of the individual.
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12th July 2005, 11:38 PM #26Intermediate Member
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If you want to see some high end use of floating tenons look at
www.djmarks.com
David has a show called wood works on pay TV or you can go to
www.diynet.com and look up wood works you get plans and details with work sheets putting projects together nearly always using floating tenons for loaded joints.It is better to have tried and failed than never tried at all.
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