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  1. #1
    Cbig Guest

    Default Turning Floorboards into furniture timber

    Is this a bad or good idea?

    I’ve come across a fair bit of American Oak (about 50 square meters) 180mm by 20mm thick for a cheap price. I don’t intend to use this as flooring.

    Has anyone here successfully done this? I’m worried by the time you get rid of the grooves it will be too thin.


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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2007
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    Sth Gippsland Vic
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    Default

    You saw off the tongues and grooves and keep the thickness at 20mm right ? The board ends up a bit narrower. Sounds great to me .

    Or you thickness away the T&G and end up with 6mm Oak and don't lose any width. Only good for small drawer sides or Parquetry top manufacture where its used like a veneer and glued down to something else . Or other small stuff . Boxes maybe ?

    If I wanted that thin size Id be band sawing it in half to get twice as much .

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Sydney Upper North Shore
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    Default

    I used old jarrah floor boards, put through a thicknesser, to make a table top. The tongue and groove were useful in this case.

  5. #4
    Cbig Guest

    Default

    Yeah I’d be happy to loose 20mm off the sides. What I mean in these 4 grooves running under the boards.

    IMG_9212.jpg


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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2018
    Location
    Sydney
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    51
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    148

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Cbig View Post
    Is this a bad or good idea?

    I’ve come across a fair bit of American Oak (about 50 square meters) 180mm by 20mm thick for a cheap price. I don’t intend to use this as flooring.

    Has anyone here successfully done this? I’m worried by the time you get rid of the grooves it will be too thin.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    No it’s rubbish. I’ll dispose of it for you!!
    No seriously it’s great for small cabinet builds, serving trays, jewellery boxes. Only downside I’ve found is the weight for serving trays etc but you can join them together with the T&G and run them through a thicknesser


    Northern Beaches Sydney

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    Melbourne
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    6,127

    Default

    If you can't see the grooves in the piece you make then they don't matter anyway. You'll only be losing 2-3mm if you do have to plane them out, that's still plenty of material left for small to medium sized projects.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    Ferny Hills
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    94

    Default Worked for me Cbig

    I scored two trailer loads of river red gum floorboards for a couple of slabs and have used it both ripped and thicknessed into flat boards and with the tongue and groove to make wider panels. One example attached.

    Owen
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Brisbane
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    Default

    I’ve done chests of drawers using qtr sawn 16mm material as a bit of an experiment and it has, to date, 10 years, had not a problem. Go for it, be bold, break the rules.
    There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!

    Tom Waits

  10. #9
    Cbig Guest

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WoodyOwen View Post
    I scored two trailer loads of river red gum floorboards for a couple of slabs and have used it both ripped and thicknessed into flat boards and with the tongue and groove to make wider panels. One example attached.

    Owen
    Looks epic, well done


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  11. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Newcastle
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    337

    Default

    I’ve built outdoor furniture using decking boards as well. Also laminating to make legs and things is good and the grooves won’t matter unless the end grain is visible

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Newcastle
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    337

    Default

    I’ve built outdoor furniture using decking boards as well. Also laminating to make legs and things is good and the grooves won’t matter unless the end grain is visible

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
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    Westleigh, Sydney
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    9,549

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    Go for it, be bold, break the rules.
    Using timber that isn't the standard 19mm thickness can make it stand out from the crowd.
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  14. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Hobart, Tas
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    Default

    I've done the same with Tas Oak flooring. Just cut/planed off the tongue and groove. Where both sides were going to be visible, flattened the backs too. I started using the table saw (with the boards on edge), but that was a little dicey, so used a hand plane which was both simpler and much safer. I've subsequently bought a thicknesses though, which makes short work of it.

    It's great to have a ready supply of nice timber of various projects, and floor boards take up very little storage. Go for it!

    Lance

  15. #14
    rrich Guest

    Default

    You are going to lose about 6 or 7 mm in width when removing the T & G. That's easy to do with a table saw. Removing the groves from the back side you will lose 2 or 3 mm in thickness and bring the thickness down to 17 mm. The killer is the finish side. You could remove the finish using a thicknesser but that would be a killer on the knives. I would find someone with a wide belt sander and rent time on the sander. Here I can get wide belt sander time for about $40 per half hour.

    A tip would be to edge glue the strips into workable widths before the thicknesser and wide belt sander. That way you won't have to worry about glue on the face.

    BTW - The finish is probably on the best looking face because someone "graded" the boards before machining and chose the best surface for the floor.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Sydney
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    Go for it. You will soon realise this is one of the best things ever.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

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