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  1. #1
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    Default How to do the frame for glass cabinets?

    I am thinking of making some wall cabinets for the kitchen which would have glass doors that open upwards on lifters.
    My wife will want a modern minimalist look to it. But as long as it is a fairly plain design and all white, then I think she will be happy.
    My question is about the door frames.
    I think I will make them glass in a wooden frame because they are high up. The problem with things high up is you never remember what is up there so glass will be helpful.

    The easiest way would be for me to make a slot to hold the glass pane inside the frame. However it occurs to me that if the glass gets broken there would be no easy way to replace the glass.
    Therefore is it better to make a rabbet and then hold the glass in with some mitered trim?
    Do I use picture clips?
    Is there an easier way?

    I saw a video where someone used a special clip in seal strip but I have no idea where that comes from.
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

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  3. #2
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    A few years ago, I made two glass doors for a cabinet for my daughter. I rebated the back of the frame with the router and the glass people siliconed the glass in - still holding OK.
    My other daughter was given a china cabinet and the glass in those doors slide down from the top into a channel in the sides and base of the frame. You would need to be sure that the top edge of the glass is at least partly polished to avoid cuts. The glass in the sides of the cabinet is in a rebate and held in with clips.
    You will need 3mm glass.

    Hope that helps
    Tom

    "It's good enough" is low aim

  4. #3
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    The way I used to do them at work was a double rebate; one about 10mm wide x 8mm deep for 3mm glass and another one 10-15mm wider and 5mm deep for trim to be screwed on top

  5. #4
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    An alternative glass frame is one that has the glass in a groove all the way around. The fourth side, the non hinge side, is held in place with dominos which are not glued into the fourth side but are held by a screw from the inside of the cabinet into the domino. This enables you to dismantle the door if the glass ever needs replacing.

  6. #5
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    Thanks everyone for the responses so far.
    It sounds like silicone glue is better than I imagined. The reason I didn't go for that is because the doors will lift up. If the glass did fall out, it would fall on top of someone. Literally.

    I did think about using those picture clips as a backup.

    Or perhaps I go with Elan's double rebate and trim idea. I'm not at all confident in my mitre abilities but I guess I have to learn somewhere.

    Or I just had another idea. Perhaps I screw aluminum angle inside as a inner trim. What do you think?
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  7. #6
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    I've been working on a display cabinet for a while, and I just finished installed the glass panels last weekend. Mine are done with rebate & mitered trims. I won't say it is easy but it is very classy. Will take some close-up photos for you later.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  8. #7
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    Hi DaveVman

    I use a variation of Elan's method and it works well - single rebate, plus a second rebate in the retaining trim.

    Glazing Trim.png

    Suggest that you do all surface finishing - painting, polishing, ? before glazing.

    I also used glass shelves - works brilliantly - allows much more light into cupboard and you can see contents of high shelves by looking through shelves.

    Talk to you glazier about type of glass. Mine said:
    • 8 mm toughened glass with polished edges for shelves, and
    • 3 mm toughened glass for doors. Standards do not yet require toughened glass for doors, but it does minimise risks from accidents.


    IMG_1439.jpg

    I am very pleased with the results.


    Cheers

    Graeme

    EDIT: Add picture of shelves. Sorry, I do not know why they rotated.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    I've been working on a display cabinet for a while, and I just finished installed the glass panels last weekend. Mine are done with rebate & mitered trims. I won't say it is easy but it is very classy. Will take some close-up photos for you later.
    Ooo yesss please! Photos would be awesome.
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  10. #9
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    Graeme's method will work nicely for you and it is a lot easier than mine.

    I chose this method is because 1) it is a display cabinet so you can see the other side of the glass. I want it to look simple. 2) it uses less timber to make the trims.

    glass.png
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by GraemeCook View Post
    Hi DaveVman

    I use a variation of Elan's method and it works well - single rebate, plus a second rebate in the retaining trim.

    Glazing Trim.png

    Suggest that you do all surface finishing - painting, polishing, ? before glazing.

    I also used glass shelves - works brilliantly - allows much more light into cupboard and you can see contents of high shelves by looking through shelves.

    Talk to you glazier about type of glass. Mine said:
    • 8 mm toughened glass with polished edges for shelves, and
    • 3 mm toughened glass for doors. Standards do not yet require toughened glass for doors, but it does minimise risks from accidents.


    I am very pleased with the results.


    Cheers

    Graeme
    Thank you so much for the diagram!
    Yes that would be easier. I like your idea.

    These cabinets are up very high. There would be pros and cons to having glass shelves. Being so high it is not easy to clean them and there is also the cost factor. We don't want to spend too much on this old kitchen. The cabinets will be for storing those seldom used things. My wife has appliances and crockery which she only uses sometimes when we entertain. I just thought that installing lights and glass doors would help her to see what is up there without needing to climb up to each cupboard. I think glass shelves is taking it too far in this case.

    In fact when I think it through, the cupboards will have lifters. All she needs to do is open the doors to see what is up there.
    I will talk it over with her before I order materials but I need to design it all and think through exactly how I would do it first because my glacial work rate is not a good match to her instantaneous expectations. So it's best I'm all ready to order everything and then get her opinion. Let's call it customer expectation management!
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  12. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    Graeme's method will work nicely for you and it is a lot easier than mine.

    I chose this method is because 1) it is a display cabinet so you can see the other side of the glass. I want it to look simple. 2) it uses less timber to make the trims.

    glass.png
    Thanks very much for the diagram. That is certainly a cleaner and more minimalist look. I can see that getting those screws in there is more of a challenge. One good thing about your method is that I don't need to do mitres on the trim. If I made all the trim square the only one who would notice would be another woodworker and myself.
    What size screws did you use?
    How wide is your trim?
    How fiddly is it to do?

    Graeme's method would actually more closely resemble the existing cabinet doors, provided I mitre the the trim.
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wongo View Post
    Graeme's method will work nicely for you and it is a lot easier than mine.

    I chose this method is because 1) it is a display cabinet so you can see the other side of the glass. I want it to look simple. 2) it uses less timber to make the trims.

    glass.png


    Hi All

    I used Wongo's method on my first pair of doors and it certainly does look better when all goes well. So minimalist!

    But I had problems:
    • You want the trim to gently squeeze on the glass, but you are driving the screws in the wrong direction. Some glazing rattled, other was too tight.
    • The trim is tiny; I split some trim.
    • The screws go very close to the edge of the door fram; I split a section of it.



    Cheers

    Graeme

  14. #13
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    You are both right about the challenges. I will post some pictures and show you how I overcome them.
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  15. #14
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    I am making the cabinet out of T&G floorboards. I cut the grooves out and cut the upper side to 8mm X 6mm.

    IMG_7077.JPG IMG_7078.JPG

    Here is the frame

    IMG_7018.JPG

    I cut the mitre on a disc sander. It is much easier using a sander than a tablesaw, and it gives a cleaner cut.

    IMG_7080.JPG

    I drill the hole and countersink on a drill press

    IMG_7083.JPG

    I am using 20mm phillips head screws. I could use smaller ones but I have a lot of these ones.

    IMG_7092.JPG IMG_7085.JPG

    I mark every side, T = top, B = bottom, L = left, R = right, and each window has it own code. This way they will not get mixed up.

    IMG_7084.JPG

    The glass panels all come from some old windows I took down from my house last year and I cut the glass myself. I cut a little strip and place it in the frame. This way I am able to cut the pilot hole with a cordless drill accurately and at a right angle

    IMG_7086.JPG IMG_7087.JPG IMG_7088.JPG

    Using phillips head makes it easy to drive the screw at a small angle

    IMG_7081.JPG IMG_7082.JPG


    And here is the result

    IMG_7091.JPGIMG_7090.JPG
    Visit my website at www.myFineWoodWork.com

  16. #15
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    NEW TOOL ALERT

    After doing the cope and stick and Graeme's suggestion I would use a 23 gauge pinner nail gun. Oh but you may need a compressor too.


    Remember, he who dies with the most tools wins.

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