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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
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    Melbourne
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    Default Some friendly advice needed for restoring beautiful old Victorian door

    Hello forum,

    I spent a fair bit of time looking for an original cricket bat door and finally found one. As you can see from the pics it's in quite a state. However, I like the dings and patches over its life - gives it real character.

    Anyhow, I'm planning to restore this door for my old house. Now, I'm a novice in regards to doors (my previous experience in this area has been pulling apart sash windows).

    I'm planning to
    1. Pull off all the mouldings and remove all the terrible 'bog' someone had used on the sides of the mouldings,
    2. Strip the varnish and sand back to bare wood,
    3. Smooth any dings,
    4. Several coats of danish oil with a couple of final satin poly.


    So far, Ive pulled apart one 'panel' as you can see by the pics. The nail eating tool has been pretty helpful in carefully pulling this apart. I noted that the wood panel behind the moulding is fairly loose and looks to be only held in by nails from the moulding on the other side (I guess these panels are just sandwiched by the mouldings and nailed in?)

    My questions are;

    Should I remove all mouldings and 'pull' out the panels and then go far as pull apart the door sections (all the tenon joined sections). It looks like the sections could be pulled apart though not sure - wish there was an old door manual or something!

    If I do pull apart all the sections, when putting back together should I use a liberal amount of glue and perhaps screws to secure it all back in place (knowing I will never really be able to pull it apart again).

    I note that the 'panel' behind the mouldings I just pulled apart is fairly bowed (seemed to suffered from 100 yrs worth of weather). Is there any way to 'straighten' this panel or should I replace with some recycled wood of the same type?

    Is the wood baltic pine? I'm a beginner in identifying woods

    Any other advice you would recommend in making this restoration project go as good as can be?


    If you have any advice/pearls of wisdom - much appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Aaron.












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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    St Georges Basin
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    Default

    I have worked on a few doors like this. If this one was mine I would knock it down, repair all the pieces individually and then rebuild. And then probably paint it to hide all the repairs.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Jarrahdale WA
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    Default

    Done something similar but not as thorough and dramatic. The only thing I can add is the use of clamps in "push" or cramp mode to gently dissasmble after you have the panels out. And remember to label which panel is where. You could spend a while trying to figure that out...

  5. #4
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    Sep 2010
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    Sydney
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  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Thanks for the replies peoples.

    Have done some more searching on tenons, wedges, plugs and restoration stuff and forth. Looks like I can carefully remove the wedges and as you say cramp the frame open. That will allow me to work on each piece and re-assemble for a tight long lasting fitment. Oh yes, have been numbering each panel I've pulled

    Any ideas on how to remove the 'bow' from the flat panel? Its 260mm wide and I reckon I will have trouble sourcing a replacement. I was thinking soaking the item in water overnight then clamp it flat with battens and wait for it to dry out?

  7. #6
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    Jan 2012
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pac man View Post
    Thanks. I also learnt a new word - Bolection...!

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
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    Westleigh, Sydney
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    Default

    Any ideas on how to remove the 'bow' from the flat panel? Its 260mm wide and I reckon I will have trouble sourcing a replacement. I was thinking soaking the item in water overnight then clamp it flat with battens and wait for it to dry out?
    You may need to do that, but first, try spraying water on the concave side of the panel, then clamping it flat between 3 or 4 sheets of newspaper each side. Leave for a day or two. Once it's OK, never leave it flat on the bench, always lay it on stickers so there is air either side.
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  9. #8
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    Jan 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexS View Post
    You may need to do that, but first, try spraying water on the concave side of the panel, then clamping it flat between 3 or 4 sheets of newspaper each side. Leave for a day or two. Once it's OK, never leave it flat on the bench, always lay it on stickers so there is air either side.

    Thanks Alex. Will give that a crack. Spent 6 hours taking off all the top half mouldings front & back and bats. Damn big nails they used back in the day when the wood was green

    Anyhow, found something that is making this project all the worthwhile, back of one of the bats has scribbles and is dated 5th October 1883 - i thought the door was old, but wow.....Seems the writing is greek or olde English?


  10. #9
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    Default

    looks like that deck could do with a bit of attention too....

  11. #10
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    Jan 2012
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by burraboy View Post
    looks like that deck could do with a bit of attention too....
    Nah decks going to the tip in a year or two


    Can anyone confirm for me that the wood is baltic pine....?

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    289

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mookschank View Post
    ...Anyhow, found something that is making this project all the worthwhile, back of one of the bats has scribbles and is dated 5th October 1883 - i thought the door was old, but wow.....Seems the writing is greek or olde English?
    Well, I couldn't let the puzzle go by.
    Definitely greek letters (except maybe the first 2).

    IO Ις ογ Τηε σπρεε Τηε λασΤ ψι?ε δαις

    Θομας
    Πεαρκε

    Got the letters off Wiki and tried the sentence in google translate but it didn't make sense. Then I wondered if the writer was using the letters as a simple substitution code. And they were, but even simpler than I thought. They have simply used the greek letters closest to english sounds:
    (greek upper case/greek lower case/greek name/closest english letter)
    Α α alpha a
    Β β beta b
    Γ γ gamma g
    Δ δ delta d
    Ε ε epsilon e
    Ζ ζ zêta z
    Η η êta ê
    Θ θ thêta th
    Ι ι iota i
    Κ κ kappa k
    Λ λ lambda l
    Μ μ mu m
    Ν ν nu n
    Ξ ξ xi ks
    Ο ο omikron o
    Π π pi p
    Ρ ρ rho r
    Σ σ, ς sigma s
    Τ τ tau t
    Υ υ upsilon u
    Φ φ phi f
    Χ χ chi ch
    Ψ ψ psi ps
    Ω ω omega ô

    Note there is no greek for "c", "v" or "y". The writer chose "i" to replace "y"

    So the message reads...

    IO "Ις ογ Τηε σπρεε Τηε λασΤ ψι?ε δαις"
    IO* "is on the spree the last five days"

    (*whoever IO was, maybe the boss? or it could be the number 10 or some other reference. But it would have to be a person for sure.)

    And the writer signed themselves as "Thomas Pearce" (replacing "c" with "k" I assume, as per "Oct 1883" otherwise Thomas Pearke)

    Not ancient words of wisdom, but mildly amusing anyway. At least that's what I think.

    Regards
    SWK

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mookschank View Post
    Can anyone confirm for me that the wood is baltic pine....?
    It certainly has the appearance of Baltic.

  14. #13
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    Thumbs up

    A worthy challenge in more ways than one!!!

    You are doing a fine job on the resto. I agree that the timber looks like Baltic Pine.

    Cricket bat door. Never heard of them referred to like that before but it is an apt description.

    Not sure what they are referred to in other cultures but in Rio de Janeiro there is a very old church
    known as the Church of St. Bento. It was originally all timber but in order to preserve the entire
    building a stone building was built all around it sometime in the 1800s. The original doors are
    "cricket bat" and are enormous - probably 15 feet tall.

    Keep it coming!!

  15. #14
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    Iam going against the grain but why strip it down? In your first comment...."I like the dings etc" so why not leave it in situ, sand it down so a good varish/sealer can be applied and leave the dings etc. Sorry but my 2 bobs worth I think your mad restoring it.
    I would love to grow my own food, but I can not find bacon seeds

  16. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tonto View Post
    Iam going against the grain but why strip it down? In your first comment...."I like the dings etc" so why not leave it in situ, sand it down so a good varish/sealer can be applied and leave the dings etc. Sorry but my 2 bobs worth I think your mad restoring it.
    Hi Tonto, yes im wrestling with this myself, (actually i was as mouldings have come off now!). I thought that the mouldings were in poor shape in being physically attached to the door and hence thought to take them off, remove the bog and relay flat to the door. I will leave the imperfections of which there are many! I will also pull apart and refit the door frame pieces with lots of glue. Not sure ive made the right choice, but hey ive started it now

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