Thread: Gloves for woodworking

as per pic

I like these: https://www.hardyakka.com.au/ninja-hpt-gloves.html

I use these gloves from bunnings. https://www.bunnings.com.au/hortex-h...small_p3350164

they are nothing special, and cheap enough. they last me about 3 weeks. I use them 8.5-10hrs a day at work handling 90x35 pine along with a bunch of gang nail plates. You would think the nail plates tear them to shreds, but in fact they just wear away from handling the timber especially around the area of the webbing between thumb and forefinger. They are good because the offer the same level of grip with less effort on my part, or more grip using the same effort.

I personally don't care what other people do with their own hands. Though it's good to know that using gloves around rotary equipment with pinch points elevates your risk level to extremely high. However, if you get "pulled in" around a table saw because you were wearing gloves, I wouldn't stress too much about the gloves because you were doomed with or without. The drill press however is a easy machine to be unwittingly "pulled in" and have your wrist snapped in half, or the bench grinder is a great one to be pulled in and have your hand ground away while you try in vain to free yourself after hitting the emergency stop only to find your cant free yourself and those grinder wheels take a looooong time to come to a complete stop.

I use ninja hot gripx gloves they arent baggy but are still strong

Ninja HPT GripX Gloves EN388 Rating 4131 Size: SMALL BLACK (1 Pair) https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F263784350098


Wood working is one third planning, one third execution and one third figuring out how to cover up the mistake you just made during the execution

I used regular leather gloves. More for the cold than anything else. I cut the thumb tip from both gloves middle and pointy finger tips from my dominant hand and pointy from the other hand.

I find for marking and some fine work I need bare skin. This is at work in a commercial setting using tools typical to many woodworkers


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I used these, or something very similar, from Mitre 10

http://www.bannerhardware.com.au/glo...ther-gripwell/

A size down so they were fairly snug so I still had some feel. I found garden style gloves a bit clumsy.

The gloves that I use I purchased from Bunnings and Miter 10 and both are similar in style where they were dripped in some sort of rubber solution to aid in grip. I have used these for everything not just for handling wood so after a while they need replacing. I have washed them by hand(pun) which I think gives them a little more life on the grip. I have several pairs of these and at least one in the draw brand new ready to be used when one of the other pairs becomes rubbish.

I will point out that when I wood turn I don't use gloves as I believe that there is a possibility that they might catch. If I have wood that is very dry and not producing shavings I have used a disposable glove on my left hand. This is a type of glove that you would use if you were handling food , not the chemical resistance type of glove.

My preference is for the thicker, heavy duty rigger style like Prosafe Mech Cheetah. I tried to post a link to the Blackwoods page but I'm doing this via an I-thingy and can't seem to figure out how to "paste" a URL.

My reasons for choosing these types is simply due to the size of timber I'll be shoving around. Any sheet goods 900 square or larger or big rough sawn planks are awkward and have many devious ways to inflict minor boo-boos, none of which are serious but are seriously annoying. Once the goods have been cut smaller and/or dressed then I go back to handling them by hand.

I've never really got on with the thin rubberised gloves like the Ninjas, they make my hands sweat and their level of puncture/cut protection is pretty poor, however for the OP's sensitivity issues they may be the best all round product.

I'm pretty soft and don't have a lot of calluses so when I'm using hand tools I used to get a lot of blisters and splinters. A while ago (years) I bought a pair of Trojan Fingerless Carpenters gloves at the green shed. They were some sort of knitted nylon with leather wear patches on the palms. Surprise, surprise, a brand they no longer stock. These have lasted a long time and I've worn them regularly for all hand work like planing, sawing and chiseling and also moving large pieces of wood around. When they eventually give up I think I'll either cut the finger ends off a pair of dress leather gloves or try some cycling bike gloves. The fingerless mechanics gloves Bunnies now stock look a bit heavy.

The mention of fingerless gloves made me think of my sailing gloves. I reckon they would be a perfect fit.

For heavy work, a pair of plain ol' leather riggers gloves.

Anything heavy enough to protect me from serious splinter's, etc. is generally too heavy for me to have any sense of feeling for grip... I'd rather cop a splinter than wedge my hand in a stack 'cos a board was slipperier than I thought. DAMHIKT.

For more refined work in the shed I have a second pair of fingerless gloves... much like DaveTTCs and for the same reasons.

I use good fitting Rigger's gloves

I'm currently looking for the materials I need for this new hobby of mine so those suggestions are really helpful to me too. Thank you for the idea, will definitely look for something similar in the store near our place.

The Yakka gloves that Elan put up are pretty much what I use - they last quite a while and don't pressure cook your hands like other gloves with the impermeable material all the way around. I also find that you can get some that are quite fine even on the grip side, which makes them useful for deterring splinters, but not thick enough to lose a sense of what you're holding or working on.