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  1. #1
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    Default How would you glue this?

    I'm making some stringing stock for some boxes and I have all these little 2nd stage pieces ready to glue up side to side. How would you do it? At this stage I'm thinking of just rubbing successive pieces together with hide glue so I don't have to think of an ingenious clamping mechanism. The stringing will end up looking like that on this box, however I think I missed the mark on the component proportions so this may end up being just a tester.

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  3. #2
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    I have seen this done on You Tube by one person that goes under the name of Apprentice and The Journeyman.

    I am not able to link it on this thread but when you take a look at the process that he employs (like a sandwitch) you might want to substitute the outside pieces with same wood to that you will be using in the box.

  4. #3
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    Thanks Christos, I've seen the A&J videos, they were a great help in getting started and on designs for a couple of BS sleds. Unfortunately, this stringing doesn't have any outside layers to sandwich it between.

  5. #4
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    Cool I was not sure if I explained myself clearly. At least you have seen this and get some ideas. I will be watching this thread to see what others think.

  6. #5
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    I haven't done this myself but the rubbing method applied to small sections at first - 10 strips?- and perhaps held together with elastic bands should work.

    Any reason for hide glue rather than titebond? The rubbing method works well with titebond too.
    Graeme

  7. #6
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    Not sure if I can explain this but can they be loaded into a magazine/frame from the top after having glue applied. Wax paper lined with an angled piece on the base. Maybe use opposed wedges at the top to provide clamping pressure. Something like the attached sketch.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bookend View Post
    I haven't done this myself but the rubbing method applied to small sections at first - 10 strips?- and perhaps held together with elastic bands should work.

    Any reason for hide glue rather than titebond? The rubbing method works well with titebond too.
    I think rubbing together smaller groups of them is a good idea. I have Titebond and have rubbed PVA before, but I just prefer the initial tack of hide glue.
    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    Not sure if I can explain this but can they be loaded into a magazine/frame from the top after having glue applied. Wax paper lined with an angled piece on the base. Maybe use opposed wedges at the top to provide clamping pressure. Something like the attached sketch.
    Thanks for your schematic. I'd thought of a magazine setup, but not quite in the way you've done it, which is better. I'll do something like that if the rubbed joints don't work out.

    Thanks all.

  9. #8
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    This is how the stringing is looking after clean up. In the end I did use hide glue and it worked very well.

    Still not sure I am happy with the pattern though.

  10. #9
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    Just an update. One problem I had with the first glue up was bowing of the small pieces to be glued in the second stage. I don't know whether it was a moisture problem or the cut of veneers or that the pieces were a bit too wide. The next batch I made I glued the veneers with hide glue and after cutting the small pieces out, I used epoxy for the second-stage glue-up and a kind of magazine to clamp them in. It worked very well, though I had great troubles moulding it to the curved sections. I used it for the straight sections only. With wastage, I came up a bit short on binding so had to make some more. This time the veneer strips were a bit narrower and when came time to do the second stage glue up I used hide glue, but in a quite syrupy consistency to keep the moisture problems away. Firstly I rubbed pairs together, then pairs of pairs, then pairs of pairs of... you get the idea. Seems to have worked OK and now I will not have any trouble conforming to the curved sections. Hide glue seems to be the answer to most questions!

  11. #10
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    Used to do this quite often and found it hard to improve on horse sauce. Found it easier to slip the new section in between rather than tacked on the end, seemed to keep the line much straighter. Should be a nice piece when finished.

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    Getting there and it seems to me that you are getting faster the more you do.

  13. #12
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    Excellent result!

    When I've made stringing of this sort, I avoid making it up as individual layers of stringing, rather I make it up in large blocks and then cut it into precisely dimensioned layers and then into the final stringing. I find it easier to achieve consistent results without a lot of the fiddling and I'm also not concerned about running out of stringing. Confidence doesn't suffer either when you know there's plenty more stringing if a particular section doesn't glue up as desired.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustynail View Post
    Used to do this quite often and found it hard to improve on horse sauce. Found it easier to slip the new section in between rather than tacked on the end, seemed to keep the line much straighter. Should be a nice piece when finished.
    Thanks. The horse sauce provides a bonus there too if section is not straight and flat, you can warm the section with an iron and correct it against a fence.

    Quote Originally Posted by Christos View Post
    Getting there and it seems to me that you are getting faster the more you do.
    hmmm perhaps. Day one sand veneers and glue. Day 2, cut the pieces out and reglue. Day 3, cut into strips and use. You could probably do the veneer glue up, cut and reglue on the first day, but the humidity up here is retarding the drying so it's just more convenient to do it over three days.

    Cheers
    Michael

  15. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Woodwould View Post
    Excellent result!

    When I've made stringing of this sort, I avoid making it up as individual layers of stringing, rather I make it up in large blocks and then cut it into precisely dimensioned layers and then into the final stringing. I find it easier to achieve consistent results without a lot of the fiddling and I'm also not concerned about running out of stringing. Confidence doesn't suffer either when you know there's plenty more stringing if a particular section doesn't glue up as desired.
    Thanks Woodwould. I can see one way to do this one as a big block. Glue multiple repeat units together at stage one, then cut strips off at 45º and rip those strips into the finished binding, no need to do fiddly glue up of small pieces. So the block for this one would start out looking something like this? Is that what you mean?
    Cheers
    Michael

  16. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by mic-d View Post
    Thanks Woodwould. I can see one way to do this one as a big block. Glue multiple repeat units together at stage one, then cut strips off at 45º and rip those strips into the finished binding, no need to do fiddly glue up of small pieces. So the block for this one would start out looking something like this? Is that what you mean?
    Cheers
    Michael
    More or less. I wouldn't even bother staggering it; it requires a degree of accuracy at a level where it's not required. If you saw one of my stringing blocks, you might be surprised what an ugly clump it is.
    .
    I know you believe you understand what you think I wrote, but I'm not sure you realize that what you just read is not what I meant.


    Regards, Woodwould.

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