Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,557

    Default Glue creep - how to avoid

    I have made a solid English oak end grain cutting board for a friend, it measures 560x420x65, and yes, its very heavy, i am concerned about possible glue creep in the joints. i have done a few of these, some have ended up with creep and some haven't and i cant remember whether the ones with creep were because i put a finish (liquid paraffin) on within a few days of glue up. ie glue wednesday, sand saturday then oil saturday afternoon.

    is it possible the boards with glue creep were due to lower clamping pressure or shortness of time between glue up and finish?

    I am using titebond 2, clamped for a full 24hrs sometimes longer.

    If it is due to me not letting the glue cure fully, how long should it take to cure fully?

    Thanks

    CB 1.jpg

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    I didn't know it was possible to prevent creep with PVA...

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,557

    Default

    It had success in the past. And don’t know what I did to achieve it.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    Redlands area, Brisbane
    Posts
    1,490

    Default

    I think you got lucky. I have applied veneer to plywood panels with PVA in the past. Though this was not the generic PVA. Not Titebond either. It was a "cross linking PVA" I bought from the The Woodworks shop in Sydney 20 years ago. I assume this is the same stuff they sold then, but you would probably have to ask them: https://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop...linking-detail

    Alternatively you could use polyurethane glue, epoxy, liquid hide glue, or hot hide glue. Poly or epoxy are probably better for a chopping board but hot hide glue can be made water resistant with the addition of either potassium bichromate, formaldehyde, or formalin. This is according to Stephen Shepherd, page 89 of The Hide Glue book.

    I have not tried any of these toxic hide glue waterproofing formulae. Nor am I ever likely to!

    If I was going to use epoxy, I would probably use one of the water thin versions like West Systems. Though I'm not sure I would use West Systems product. I know too many people that are severely allergic to the stuff. I imagine it's okay when it has cured, but to be sure to be sure...

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by markharrison View Post
    I think you got lucky.
    +1

    Alternatively you could use polyurethane glue, epoxy,
    A bit late now that it's been made, but also +1

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Hunter Valley
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,342

    Default

    Forgive me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't a cutting board use a food-safe glue - i.e. Hide Glue or Titebond III only?

    I know this doesn't answer your glue-creep issue, but I couldn't help thinking this as I was reading the thread.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    6,127

    Default

    Epoxy and PU are food safe when set, PVA is basically food safe from the bottle but I wouldn't recommend drinking it

  9. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Sth Gippsland Vic
    Posts
    4,396

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight Man View Post
    Forgive me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't a cutting board use a food-safe glue - i.e. Hide Glue or Titebond III only?

    I know this doesn't answer your glue-creep issue, but I couldn't help thinking this as I was reading the thread.
    Hide glue hasn't been recommended as food safe has it ?

    With moisture and the right temperature, it forms or creates the perfect place for all sorts of nasty bacterial crap to grow.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    3,559

    Default

    Epoxy is foodsafe when cured. Creep is non existent once cured, but slip is an issue during fabrication. Lay up on a sheet of melamine board with a melamine surround as most epoxy won't stick to it.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    171

    Default

    I took a look at Titebond's website to see what they say about glue creep:

Similar Threads

  1. PVA glue creep
    By qwertyu in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 14th October 2018, 10:04 AM
  2. Requirements Creep
    By dr4g0nfly in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 27th April 2013, 06:49 AM
  3. 3600BR creep
    By Scrubtik in forum ROUTING FORUM
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 22nd December 2009, 05:32 PM
  4. Replies: 21
    Last Post: 1st April 2009, 02:14 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •