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  1. #1
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    Default Glue creep - how to avoid

    I have made a solid English oak end grain cutting board for a friend, it measures 560x420x65, and yes, its very heavy, i am concerned about possible glue creep in the joints. i have done a few of these, some have ended up with creep and some haven't and i cant remember whether the ones with creep were because i put a finish (liquid paraffin) on within a few days of glue up. ie glue wednesday, sand saturday then oil saturday afternoon.

    is it possible the boards with glue creep were due to lower clamping pressure or shortness of time between glue up and finish?

    I am using titebond 2, clamped for a full 24hrs sometimes longer.

    If it is due to me not letting the glue cure fully, how long should it take to cure fully?

    Thanks

    CB 1.jpg

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  3. #2
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    Default

    I didn't know it was possible to prevent creep with PVA...

  4. #3
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    Default

    It had success in the past. And donít know what I did to achieve it.

  5. #4
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    Default

    I think you got lucky. I have applied veneer to plywood panels with PVA in the past. Though this was not the generic PVA. Not Titebond either. It was a "cross linking PVA" I bought from the The Woodworks shop in Sydney 20 years ago. I assume this is the same stuff they sold then, but you would probably have to ask them: https://www.thewoodworks.com.au/shop...linking-detail

    Alternatively you could use polyurethane glue, epoxy, liquid hide glue, or hot hide glue. Poly or epoxy are probably better for a chopping board but hot hide glue can be made water resistant with the addition of either potassium bichromate, formaldehyde, or formalin. This is according to Stephen Shepherd, page 89 of The Hide Glue book.

    I have not tried any of these toxic hide glue waterproofing formulae. Nor am I ever likely to!

    If I was going to use epoxy, I would probably use one of the water thin versions like West Systems. Though I'm not sure I would use West Systems product. I know too many people that are severely allergic to the stuff. I imagine it's okay when it has cured, but to be sure to be sure...

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by markharrison View Post
    I think you got lucky.
    +1

    Alternatively you could use polyurethane glue, epoxy,
    A bit late now that it's been made, but also +1

  7. #6
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    Default

    Forgive me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't a cutting board use a food-safe glue - i.e. Hide Glue or Titebond III only?

    I know this doesn't answer your glue-creep issue, but I couldn't help thinking this as I was reading the thread.

  8. #7
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    Epoxy and PU are food safe when set, PVA is basically food safe from the bottle but I wouldn't recommend drinking it

  9. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Midnight Man View Post
    Forgive me if I'm wrong, but shouldn't a cutting board use a food-safe glue - i.e. Hide Glue or Titebond III only?

    I know this doesn't answer your glue-creep issue, but I couldn't help thinking this as I was reading the thread.
    Hide glue hasn't been recommended as food safe has it ?

    With moisture and the right temperature, it forms or creates the perfect place for all sorts of nasty bacterial crap to grow.

  10. #9
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    Epoxy is foodsafe when cured. Creep is non existent once cured, but slip is an issue during fabrication. Lay up on a sheet of melamine board with a melamine surround as most epoxy won't stick to it.

  11. #10
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    Jun 2017
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    Western Australia
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    Default

    I took a look at Titebond's website to see what they say about glue creep:

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