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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    South Australia
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    22

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    Thanks rustynail I have gone off the shelf rails as I put in my last post (it might not have been up when you posted because it has to go through the Moderator) I am going to screw them and then glue in some 8mm dowels for extra strength. It is a bit of over kill but I have plenty of time I really appreciate all the responses I am a member of many forums and I have never had so much help in such a short time.

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  3. #17
    rrich Guest

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    When I built the cabinets for the shop I used the construction technique and materials that you are using except Red Oak for the face frames. All of the joints in the Melamine cabinet carcasses (boxes) were either dadoes or rabbets. The glue was an ordinary carpenters yellow glue (TiteBond original) and I used a nail gun to shoot 16 gauge (Not sure of the metric equivalent) nails to hold the boxes together until the glue cured. (Old Norm joke ) Use a lot of glue as it scrapes off the Melamine surfaces quite easily.

    I would avoid using any of the newer Polyurethane glues. These glues require moisture to cure. There is very little moisture contained within the particle board Melamine.

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Gold coast
    Posts
    319

    Default on the right track

    Hey Sandman55,

    What are doing is more than sufficient, I Spent 10 years in Kitchen making / shopfitting, When it some to Whiteboard (melamine) carcasses screwing is more than enough, You can use nails to line it up, (just be careful that you don't blow out the nail, chipboard can have hard chunks in it that will cause the nail to deflect sideways, If I am using nails to locate and line pieces up only, I use 25mm to reduce the risk of blowouts, 38mm can be ok as well) with the screws like someone mentioned At least 50mm from the front & back edge and then about 300-400mm apart from there on in, and with the fixed shelf just screws again will be fine,
    good luck
    Ben

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Thanks for your comments guys I have it all set up and clamped together but have been sidetracked with other jobs I will make another start after lunch only I am expecting a call that will further interrupt me

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    430

    Default Gluing Melamine

    Hi Sandman

    Lots of good advice on the previous posts. Can I add a little one/two. A lot of the strength and integrity of carcase joinery in melamine surfaced boards come from the incorporation of a dead square back of equal thickness board. The back is set inside the cabinet.

    Your work will be more efficient if you buy the purpose made step drill for melamine for your pilot holes. This accurately sets the pilot hole the clearance hole and the countersink when you drill the pilot hole and makes over setting of the screws just about impossible if you go carefully using just the correct torque on you drill. It's pretty easy to split chipboard and bloody difficult to correct when it happens so go carefully.


    Cheers Old Pete


    Quote Originally Posted by sandman55 View Post
    Hi guys I am building a kitchen bench cupboard about 1.2m long. It will consist of a melamine chipboard box sitting on a kickboard box it will have a fixed shelf and a 32mm thick laminex top attached with screws. The finished box will have two Tas. Oak veneered end panels that I have bought to size when I bought the Tas. Oak doors. (The Tas Oak panels will be separate from the box not part of it)

    The kickboard box is completed and I am almost finished cutting to size the melamine chipboard panels for the main box. This is the first time I have used melamine chipboard and I got good advice here re cutting it with my circular saw, not too deep with masking tape over the cut and then finishing it with my router.

    My question is should I glue as well as screw the joints or is screwing sufficient (the chipboard is 16mm thick, it is the moisture resistant type with green flecks in it). I don't mind going the extra yard for a better job. If I should glue as well as screw then what glue is best for melamine. I see at Mitre10 they have Gorilla glue (not suitable for some plastics???) and they have Sika Bond Techgrip Polyurethane glue and Accent Polyurethane glue. My screws are countersunk ribbed head square drive chipboard screws 8G x 35mm. I plan to drill a pilot hole for the screws so that they won't split the chipboard. I also plan to sit the shelf on 42mmx19mm meranti rails and attach the shelf to the rails with screws (and glue??). Thanks in advance for any advice.

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by old pete View Post
    Hi Sandman

    Lots of good advice on the previous posts. Can I add a little one/two. A lot of the strength and integrity of carcase joinery in melamine surfaced boards come from the incorporation of a dead square back of equal thickness board. The back is set inside the cabinet.

    Your work will be more efficient if you buy the purpose made step drill for melamine for your pilot holes. This accurately sets the pilot hole the clearance hole and the countersink when you drill the pilot hole and makes over setting of the screws just about impossible if you go carefully using just the correct torque on you drill. It's pretty easy to split chipboard and bloody difficult to correct when it happens so go carefully.


    Cheers Old Pete
    Hi Old Pete, I have the panels cut and half drilled and screwed then I got a phone call and had to leave it, interruptions interruptions I have the back and sides sitting on the base panel but I have the back panel outside the cabinet, I realised when I was assembling it that I should have done it the way you have suggested and it would have held it square.

    I have the back screwed to the sides and it is square and I have cut two pieces of 42mmx19mm meranti to the exact internal measurement and I will join them with screws to make this shape then I will mount it internally at the top of the back panel to give a surface to screw to the house wall and another to screw to the bench top (I don't like the idea that I have seen of drilling at an angle to screw the back timber to the bench top). When I have the mounted I will put a screw from the side of the cabinet into the ends of the that way should strengthen the corners. I expect another interruption tomorrow from Dell I have laptop problems but I hope to get the base screwed. I have been clamping the edges with a sash clamp to pull them together then drilling with a 3/32 bit then slowly screwing in my square drive screws with my battery drill and finishing off by hand with a "T" handled driver. The drill bit you suggested sounds good I will get one tomorrow.
    Thanks for your advice every little tip helps.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Hi Guys, I am just about to start my next project a built in wardrobe and I realise that I haven't posted a reply to say my cupboard build was successful and to post a pic of it also a big thanks again to all the advise I received.

    I will also add another pic of my most recent project for those of you who keep chickens. It is of a bird (sparrow) and rodent proof chicken feeder. I fill it with layers pelets and they are trained to step on the treadle and feed, when they step off the lid closes. I completed it December last year and had to make a few modifications but it has been working successfully for a good number of months. When I am in the shed I hear from behind the shed it opening and closing as they feed.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    3,260

    Default

    Love the auto chook feeder!

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Thanks Master Splinter, here is one in action https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zb4o...eature=related

    When I built mine I had to modify the rails so that they were far enough from the box to make sure if a pellet was billed out it didn't jam and hold the lid open. It happened to mine and they scratched out a heap of pellets on the floor. It works a treat now also I made up some mesh from the bars of a fridge shelf about 50mm square that they could fit their heads through and mounted it about level with the top of the pellets in the feeder and now I don't get any pellets on the ground.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Langwarrin, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    55
    Posts
    677

    Default

    Chook feeder gives me an idea.

    Make a cat feeder up in a similar fashion, but rig the rails to release the lid after a few seconds and dong the cat on the head. :eek:

    ... Sorry all you cat lovers ... .
    Glenn Visca

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    22

    Default

    how are you going to stop the mice from jumping out when it steps on the treadle

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by sandman55 View Post
    Hi Old Pete, I have the panels cut and half drilled and screwed then I got a phone call and had to leave it, interruptions interruptions I have the back and sides sitting on the base panel but I have the back panel outside the cabinet, I realised when I was assembling it that I should have done it the way you have suggested and it would have held it square.

    I have the back screwed to the sides and it is square and I have cut two pieces of 42mmx19mm meranti to the exact internal measurement and I will join them with screws to make this shape then I will mount it internally at the top of the back panel to give a surface to screw to the house wall and another to screw to the bench top (I don't like the idea that I have seen of drilling at an angle to screw the back timber to the bench top). When I have the mounted I will put a screw from the side of the cabinet into the ends of the that way should strengthen the corners. I expect another interruption tomorrow from Dell I have laptop problems but I hope to get the base screwed. I have been clamping the edges with a sash clamp to pull them together then drilling with a 3/32 bit then slowly screwing in my square drive screws with my battery drill and finishing off by hand with a "T" handled driver. The drill bit you suggested sounds good I will get one tomorrow.
    Thanks for your advice every little tip helps.

    joeneary16 has asked for some pics, here they are the one with the cupboard door shows how the front and back of the bench top is attached and the other one shows a closer view of the back where it is attached to the bench top and also to the wall Cheers
    Attached Images Attached Images

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