Thread: Gluing up Huon Pine question.

It should be OK.

The concern was weather the natural oils in the wood would cause the glue to let go some time in the future.

People can agree with me or not on this one.
I believe the common thought on this is if the surface is freshly cut before gluing and in extreme timbers the surface is wiped down with a solvent prior to applying the glue once bonded the oils or exudates will not displace the cured glue weakening the joint. That this weakening is limited to whatever displacement or adherence reduction present at the time the glue was drying.
In other words if you start with a strong joint time will not have much of an effect and if you have a poorly bonded joint to start with that is what you will have down the track.

Ross

I've always wiped down with metho before gluing, and used aliphatic (yellow glue). Never had a problem. Give it plenty of clamping time and don't try to glue up if it's too cold.

I generally prefer to use celery top pine to huon, equally easy and nice to work, and allegedly glues better. But I have never had problems gluing huon using either epoxy or PVA. I just wipe the surfaces with MEK epoxy thinner and let it dry before gluing.

Perhaps the alleged difficulties of gluing huon have been overstated - there are heaps of huon veneers still going strong after 150 years or so; those veneers are glued to the carcase surface using animal glues. Just look in an antiques place.

Cheers

Graeme

thanks guys, all of those thoughts have been voiced on the subject today. We'd basically decieded to glue up on freshly cuts that we'll wipe down with metho before gluing. We don't normally use much Huon, its just getting too rare these days & also prefer celery top pine or macrocapa pine but we have a few really nice boards not doing anything & the craft fair is coming up soon in November & we need to earn our $$$ for the year.
Thanks all for your inputs. i'll take some pics when the coffee tables are done.

Originally Posted by GraemeCook

I generally prefer to use celery top pine to huon, equally easy and nice to work, and allegedly glues better. But I have never had problems gluing huon using either epoxy or PVA. I just wipe the surfaces with MEK epoxy thinner and let it dry before gluing.

Perhaps the alleged difficulties of gluing huon have been overstated - there are heaps of huon veneers still going strong after 150 years or so; those veneers are glued to the carcase surface using animal glues. Just look in an antiques place.

Cheers

Graeme

Greame when you say MEK is that a brand name or an abreviation for Methyl Ethyl Ketone ?



Ross

I expect it's Methyl Ethyl Ketone. If so, please be extremely careful not to inhale or come into contact with it. See the MSDS for MEK for more info.

Originally Posted by AlexS

I expect it's Methyl Ethyl Ketone. If so, please be extremely careful not to inhale or come into contact with it. See the MSDS for MEK for more info.

No doubt you should see someone jump about when they get MEKP in their eyes. Not pretty at all !!!!

Ross

Originally Posted by Different

Greame when you say MEK is that a brand name or an abreviation for Methyl Ethyl Ketone ?



Ross

Sorry for the delay in responding, Ross. Its the latter. I just used it cause I had it; continued to use it cause it works. Heed the safety instructions - its real volatile - and put the cap back on quickly or it disappears.

Cheers

Graeme