Thread: Gutter grabbing angle posts

A few questions first?

Is the job intended to be temporary or installed long term?
As you show it in your drawing, you will have timber both sides of the face of the gutter. The timber inside the gutter will have to be at least 25mm thick to safely hold screws etc. The roofing will overhang the gutter by roughly 40-50% of the gutter width. For a typical domestic gutter only about 25% of the gutter width would be available to collect roof runoff. This is quite likely to become clogged with debris if there are any trees etc nearby. The flywire would make it impossible to access the gutters to regularly clean them, so regular overflow would likely.

Gutters are not structural elements and are lightweight sheetmetal supported by flimsy clips, they would sag or pull away if expected to support additional weight for even a short term.

The timbers inside the gutter will absorb moisture from the gutter, significantly increasing their weight, and most likely establishing rot in the timbers, and possibly transfering it to to any other timbers that it comes in contact with, including the building structure.

Regarding tools and equipment, you would need to establish your timber sizes, and then be certain that the saw you are considering has the capacity to cut it at the mitre angles required. If it is a 210 dia blade, it would probably be a close run thing to square cut 140x35 or 45 timber, let alone cut it at mitre angles as shown.

Yes, if everything else works out, you will want a router to cut the groove for the gutter lip you show in the drawing, choice is up you you. You may also find that you might need to profile the lower edge of the timber inside the gutter to accomodate sheetmetal radius there, and or groove the same piece to accomodate the rolled lip in the top of the gutter, depending on actual profile.