Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Kyabram
    Age
    45
    Posts
    969

    Question Hand cutting dovetails

    Got a quick question for you "by hand"ers

    After you've cut your tails, how do you chop out the timber with the chisel if the wide end of the hole is not much wider than your thinnest chisel?

    The down chop can be done like normal, but how do you spliting chop?


    Or, put simpler when alowing for really fine pins, how do you remove the timber from beteen the tails? :confused:


    Ben.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Age
    2010
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Boyne Island, Queensland
    Age
    51
    Posts
    929

    Default

    Cut the majority of the waste out with a coping/band/scroll saw then pare down to the line. That way the smallest chisel you'll need will be one a bit thinner than the largest part of the pin. I've seen Japanese dovetail chisels from Timbecon down to 3mm and there's no doubt other manufacturers that make similar sizes.
    Dan

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Perth, WA
    Age
    76
    Posts
    2,078

    Default

    What Dan says is the right approach. With really small pins, you might find a jeweller's saw useful. The blades are finer than a normal coping saw blade - thinner and with finer teeth. You can cut closer to the line with this type of saw - which reduces the amount of paring you need. You can buy them from Carba-Tec et al. ("et al" in this context doesn't mean that Al stocks them in the Craporium - although he might! )

    Col
    Driver of the Forums
    Lord of the Manor of Upper Legover

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,562

    Default

    I made a fine chisel from an old triangular file. See Fine Woodworking about the end of 2001 for details of tempering the steel in your oven. PM me if you can't find it and I'll post the details.
    Visit my website
    Website
    Facebook

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Kyabram
    Age
    45
    Posts
    969

    Thumbs up

    Thanks guys coping saw sound good.

    Do jewlers blades fit in a normal coping saw, or do I need a special saw?
    Then I'd just use the chisel to par to the lines and chop to depth.

    Sounds like it'll work.


    AlexS, check your pm's.


    Ben.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,872

    Default

    Ben

    I use a jeweller's saw to remove the waste. The throat for this is exactly the same as a fret saw, both 5" wide, if I recall correctly. The fret saw has a 12" deep body, the jeweller's saw is about 4" deep. All these figures from memory so I may be a little out. The blades are different from a coping saws' in that they are much, much finer, and they fix to the frame with clamps rather than holes. So they are not interchangeable.

    As Col mentioned earlier, the blades are narrow enough to slip down the kerf, even one as narrow as that cut with a Japanese saw.

    The jeweller's saw is prefered when the width of the board you are dovetailing is no more than 6" wide. After this I use a fret saw.

    All this is quite fresh in my mind as I have spent today (Saturday) marking dovetails, cutting to the line, removing the waste with a saw, and paring with a chisel. One after the other, all afternoon long.

    Carba-tec sells a reproduction jeweller's saw for $25. It is nicely made. I have a vintage one that I picked up for about $10 somewhere. They also sell a fret saw for $19. I saw a similar one at Bunnings for $45. Bunnings also sell the blades.

    Attached below is a picture of my jeweller's and coping saws.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,872

    Default

    Oh, one more item on this topic. Bob built a beautiful coping saw he designed just for dovetails. See http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...ad.php?t=11894

    I plan to do a version of this using fret saw blades in the near future.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Bellingham
    Age
    47
    Posts
    798

    Default

    there is a great article in FWW a couple of issues ago about hand cut dovetail tips. it is written by the master of hand cut dovetails: Christian Becksvoort.

    there's no school like the old school.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    Tolmie - Victoria
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,010

    Default

    I don't use a coping saw but I remove all the waste using chisels. My smallest chisel is 1/8 inch so I design my dovetails so the smallest gap is 1/8 inch or greater.

    Originally I didn't have such a small chisel so I got an old 1/4 inch chisel and ground it down to around about 1/8 inch width. It worked very well, perhaps this is a solution for you.
    - Wood Borer

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,153

    Wink

    1/8" Chisel I have 2 1Mortise profile and one Bevel edge both are useful.
    Rember never walk past a chisel or a plane for sale without buying it!!! LOL
    Ross
    "All government in essence," says Emerson, "is tyranny." It matters not whether it is government by divine right or majority rule. In every instance its aim is the absolute subordination of the individual.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •