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Thread: Handcutting mortices
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26th May 2004, 06:45 PM #1
Handcutting mortices
A question for all those chisel wielding galoots out there.
I'm having a few practice goes and hand chiseling mortices. The ones that pass all the way through the piece.
I dont have a drill press so I'm cutting the entire things with a chisel.
It's all going OK until I get to the bottom and need to punch through to the other side of the wood. When I do so it's tearout galore.
Firstly my marking out is not accurate enough to approach the mortice from each side, I havent tried it yet.
It's one of those thigns that makes me think, hasn't everyone who has hand cut thru mortises come across this before?!? Yet no books or forum posts deal with that specific problem.
I just know that theres something obvious that I'm missing here.Cheers,
Adam
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26th May 2004 06:45 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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26th May 2004, 07:10 PM #2
Adam
Two ideas come to mind (well it is a small mind). Both on the assumption that you cannot draw straight lines around to the other side!!!! Ideally you should be chiselling half-way from each side, meeting in the middle.
(1) Draw the lines anyway and mark off the exit side of the mortice. Then begin chiseling from the exit side but keep it to the centre section of the mortice. Work you way outwards towards the mortice walls.
(2) Clamp a block of wood securely at the exit end to prevent tear out (cut into the block instead).
The problem with going straight through the timber is that you are likely to end up off-centre. Try and chisel half way from both sides. Even if you are slightly off in the middle, no one will notice (and I won't tell).
Regards from Perth
Derek
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26th May 2004, 07:31 PM #3
Linelefty,
Exactly what Derek said plus I use a marking gauge to mark the mortises and I do this from both sides of the joint. If your timber is square these marks will be so close on both sides the difference will not matter.
Keep at it, I made a flywire door for the back of our house using 3/4" X 90mm tassie oak with the 1/4" mortises going right through. these were done by hand with no problems but the marking out was done as described above.
The door cops the weather and even after more than 10 years of being slammed it is still 100%.
- Wood Borer
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27th May 2004, 11:40 AM #4
I dont havea marking guage, I'm just using a few steel rulers and a good square. But I take the point, that they should be approached from both sides of the piece.
ThanksCheers,
Adam
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I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia
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27th May 2004, 12:12 PM #5Novice
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linelefty,
you dont need a drill press to drill through can do by hand close to both ends and makes it much easier It good fun to know you can do the whole job by hand
still mark out both sides though
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27th May 2004, 12:36 PM #6
LineLefty,
You need to get yourself a marking gauge, they are not that expensive even new but you might be able pick one up for next to nothing at a flea market.
I use my marking gauges probably more times than I use my squares and I would be lost without them. You will not regret purchasing one of these important marking tools and your through mortise and tenon joints will be far easier to make.
- Wood Borer
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27th May 2004, 12:45 PM #7Originally Posted by peardo
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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27th May 2004, 01:16 PM #8
I know that I should get one, it's just that being a beginner my tool purchasers are things that I can't substitue. I've been able to get by without a MG but I think I'll have to go get one.
btw, all my $$ seems to be spent on bloody Silicon Carbide paper for Scary Sharp!Cheers,
Adam
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I can cure you of your Sinistrophobia
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27th May 2004, 03:25 PM #9
I drill out as much waste as possible, the chisel out the corners. This should give your chisels a bit of a rest, and save you money on the silicon carbide (I don't have a drill press either, if your not confident, use a smaller bit).
I agree with the others, working from both sides is best, if you don't you must put a board under your work to stop the breakout.
My life was made considarably easier with the purchase of a corner chisel (about $90) I simply drill as close to the mortise diamater as possible, then square up the edges with the chisel.
Ben.