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30th May 2006, 08:26 PM #1
Hanging stuff inside a steel shed?
Hi All.
There was a thread on lining material for steel sheds a while back, but I'm looking for ideas on how you'd go about fixing small cupboards and hanging racks on the walls of a steel shed. Haven't owned anything other than stud-framed sheds in the past, and these thin-gauge steel-channel studs have me worried. If I drive a few screws to hold battens I fear they'll either pull out or twist the metal if I put any weight on them. I note that 75 X 35 softwood stud material fits very neatly into the channel - would you reckon it's a good idea to put some in, then screw through steel into wood, or am I being unnecessarily paranoid??
One suggestion in the previous thread was to screw sheets of 5/8th ply to the studs, and fix your hangars to that. I want to cover the walls to keep things cleaner, and cooler, but had much thinner (and more economical!) material in mind.
Any suggestions??
Ta,IW
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30th May 2006 08:26 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th May 2006, 09:30 PM #2
I put up particle board secured to some 42mmx19mm battens - fine for tools, and containers (and containers and containers) of screws, bolts etc etc. The vertical battens are secured to the top of the walls (where there is a thicker ridge between the walls & roof, and also to the supporting rail that runs around at mid-level using tec screws. They don't pierce the shed walls.
For wood storage, I have two 4x2s secured floor to ceiling, then the Triton woodrack secured to those. It allows the walls to support a huge load, without problems for the walls (and when part of my shed got ripped apart by a storm one day, the loaded woodrack held that part of the shed together!)
If I had time, I would stuff some batts insulation behind the lining and the steel walls. For a simple lining, why not use the thin (4mm?) ply?"Clear, Ease Springs"
www.Stu's Shed.com
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30th May 2006, 09:32 PM #3
Hi IanW
I too have a steel framed colorbond shed and have found a couple of tricks. My shed has a top hat section open stud running around the walls just under window height. I screwed a timber face to it with self tapping screws, ran the electric cable through it and fixed power points onto the face. Four lengths of the same section ran the length of the roof, 2 near each other along the ridge line and one half way down each roof half. I covered these latter 2 with a timber face, ran cabling behind the face and fixed my fluoro light fittings to it. On one of the 2 sections running near the ridge, I nested my 100mm PVC dusty pipe and tied it back with cable ties that run right around the pipe and section. Wall cupboards sit on top of the channel that runs around the wall and are fixed in place with self tapping screws and brackets that simply have not budged.
I'm sure that once you hace confidence in those self tapping screws you'll have stuff having everywhere!
enjoy, Fletty
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30th May 2006, 09:43 PM #4
Ian,
What was the thinner more economical material you had in mind? Don't laugh, gyprock is about as cheap and economical as you can get, (unless you have access to MDF cover sheets that is) just don't hose the place out too often!
If you can arrange sufficient support for it, then you've probably fixed your problem, depending on what you want to hang on the walls anyway.
Once sheeted the steel studs won't twist, and provided you spread the load as much as possible it's amazing how much load they take.
If you are hanging cupboards, give them a solid back of 16mm whiteboard or ply and span a few studs.
For anything else, just run a batten on the surface, or use a few of them to make it look pretty!
Cheers
P
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31st May 2006, 09:41 AM #5Registered
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Midge,
Im suprised Mum lets you hang your tools in the kitchen.:eek:
Al
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31st May 2006, 09:48 AM #6
Thanks Fletty and Midge.
You have reassured me a bit, Midge - as you say, if you distribute the load over a sufficient area, the studs should be ok - that's why I was contemplating some heavyweight ply for the load-bearing sections. But it seems the concensus is that screwing battens to the studs is ok?
And I was considering either Gyprock or downgraded ply - a friend has just told me where to go for some good bargains in that dept. Bit hesitant about Gyprock in a shed - the damn stuff holes so easily, and when you're waving long lengths of timber around in a confined space, Murphy's law ensures you always make contact in an unsupported area!
I have no trouble accepting that those self-tapping screws hang on, alright, Fletty - stripped a couple during shed assembly and they are still damned hard to pull out! Just wasn't sure how many would be needed to cope with some pretty heavy static loads.
Did a search on old threads before I posted, as I remembered seeing a few postings on shed fitouts - just a few! I was interested in insulation methods, and it seems like there are quite a few ways to skin the cat. Since my shed is nested in between several large trees and well-shaded, it's not too bad, but I only spent a few hours in it at the end of the Summer. I note Midge advises in one thread to pay attention to ventilation, and that seems to be vital in mine. I have reasonably good airflow with windows open and roller door up, but need to slow down heat gain from the roof a bit.
We seem to be suffering an unusually early Winter - there was a good frost in our yard this morning. In May! In Brisbane!
However, I think it will suddenly become a priority to get some less conductive material between me and the sky come November.....
Cheers,IW
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31st May 2006, 09:50 AM #7Originally Posted by ozwinner
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