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30th May 2024, 04:38 PM #46SENIOR MEMBER
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Regarding the brass catch. I think you may know the fellow I bought mine off: GRAEME BROWN ANTIQUES. I fluked out and found their PDF and their operation is completely old school. Had to phone and give a CC over the phone! Fond memories LOL. For the most part this project, from the outset, was to be made to look new. I've done a lot of distressing, aging, antiquing... over the years but this wasn't going to be one of them. So I'm happy to leave it new and shiny.
Same with the table overall. I could pad on a black shellac to fill the voids and such to age it, and certainly was tempted to, but I'll stick with the plan... for now. It'll get a couple more coats of oil and after that, as I was asking you about, a nice coat of wax to finish it off.
Because I chose new over the appearance of old, I'm sticking with steel screws that are either blackened or look like brass. And something I've never done, or needed to do, because I don't normally work with organic granite (red gum), I force wax into the pilot holes before I drive the screw home. Works really well, actually!
I said: Never again. But! To be honest. You're right. The grain and colour are second to none. It's precisely why I bought the plank in the first place. I knew what I was going to make in about 30 seconds of seeing it. I'd probably stick with a more simple design though. I.e. No real detailed carving. I think the pic (below) of my first slant top would work well. It's devoid of any involved carvings that would be problematic.
Ya know what? Na, forget that! I can't imagine wanting to contend with the movement of the wood after it's been machined and trying to chop dovetails in it LOL. Once was enough.
It's something I've noticed in the birdcages - the pin often doesn't protrude through, but never thought to look into why. I don't think I would want to trust this gum wood with doing it that way. It's hard as rock, but also quite brittle and cracks easily. Not sure a gum spigot would hold up well. I used a brass threaded rod that goes all the way through and is capped off with brass slotted caps.
That was a good video. I tend to and have all my working life, worked in a vacuum for the most part. I should do more to see what everyone is doing out there. Would probably make my life a bit easier LOL.
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30th May 2024, 04:44 PM #47SENIOR MEMBER
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Thx!
Na, I demonstrated something that I've always preached about making furniture. Over the years, as you would have been asked many a time... How do you do that!!! I always say: through sheer ignorance. Im ignorant enough to I think I can do anything. By the time I've realised it's way beyond my skill set, it's too late. So then, I need to figure out how to make it work...
This just happened to take 15 years. Ya know you're getting old when you have projects laying around for decades.
Now I've got to find a place to sell it...
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30th May 2024, 04:51 PM #48SENIOR MEMBER
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I made it like your example on the right. My logic was it was easier to make the fitting more precise and tighter when most of the surfaces are flat and or at right angles. The left method leaves the joiner with a bit of guess work as to the angle he needs to undercut the tail to accommodate the radius of the pedestal. I did one years ago that was simply morticed and tenoned together. I don't recall it ever having issues. But I'd say it would without the spider. There's a lot of asymmetric force being exerted on the joint.
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