Thread: Which Mitre box?

I've got a pine one that has had years of use and is still not overly chewed up. It is my second one, the first one got chewed up because I didn't understand how to use it.

I only use the pine box with a back saw that fits undersize in the slots and I use a sacrificial piece of wood on the base. The sacrificial piece is most important. That's why the original slots don't go all the way down to the box floor. Just use a scrap of 19mm pine that fits loosely.

If you want a box that fully controls the cut rather than being in manual control there are metal framed ones that use replaceable blades similar to hack saws (Noblex?)

G'day Fuzzie

Thanks - done all that . Used a thin bladed back saw and piece of sacrificial timber- but have still managed to chew it out after about 40 cuts!!

Barry

Barry

You could go the whole hog and find a Stanley mitre guide and Disston saw, but 40 cuts makes me think there is a technique issue here. The mitre box is just a guide, you shouldn'tbe cutting into it much , if at all. and if you protect the base then you should get 40 years of service from a pine box.

Are you using the hook correctly to keep the box still on the edge of the bench? Are you trying to use too long a stroke and jumping the saw out? Are you keeping the stock still properly?

Thanks Jeremy

Yes - probably lousy technique.

I just cut another piece of wood - only this time I tried to not hold the saw TOO firmly. I suspect that I am sawing too strongly, holding the saw handle too firmly and driving the saw teeth into the sides of the slot. I held it more lightly and tried to just apply sawing back and forth motion and let the saw follow the slot. Seemed to be OK.

The work I am doing right now doesn't need anything too flash - but some work soon (when using Pocket hole screws) will require a real straight cuts, so will get a new box and see if I can improve my technique

Barry

A couple of ideas for you to think over:

* Nobex. I have the Proman and Champion saws and they are both fast and accurate.

* AngleMag, Lee Valley. Both of these companies have saw guide devices for clamping to the stock, which use magnets to hold your saw at the right angle. Sure there are others as well.

If you are doing more than just square cuts (ie, angles such as 45degrees) then I strongly recommend the Nobex saws. They have presets which make doing 4-, 6-, and 8-sided boxes and stuff really easy.

Hi Barry, Sounds like you do need to work on your technique. The slots in the mitre box really don't do anything, they should just be giving you a bit of visual reference for keeping your blade vertical.

I mostly just use a bench hook rather than a mitre box. The mitre box gets used more for 45 degree cuts rather than cross cuts.

Do you layout the cut line then saw 'to split the line' ? The teeth shouldn't be touching the sides of the slot.

Have you got a simple bench hook? When using a bench hook it's easier to keep the saw away from the jig. http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworki....aspx?id=24112

The mitre box itself has a "bench hook" - as I said, I think I need to relax a bit when sawing!!

Barry