Thread: Help with diamond wine rack

Hi,
this is one of those elegant, practical and timeless designs that is, in fact, very simple. Are you hoping to make it yourself? If not there are many on the forum who could make it for you.
I don't know where you are but it could be cut as a kit and sent to you for assembly?
fletty

Hi GraysMill and welcome.

I'd approach this the same way as when making shoji - interlocking half-lap housing joints. Simple, strong, neat, and very quick. The individual pieces could be glued for a permanent fixture, or fitted unglued if the wine rack is likely to be moved in the future. There would be limits to the depth regarding strength, but in your photo there seem to be two separate sets, front and back, so depth shouldn't be a problem.

This is the set-up:

joints.jpg

Hope this is the sort of thing you were asking about.

Des

Originally Posted by Des.K.

Hi GraysMill and welcome.

I'd approach this the same way as when making shoji - interlocking half-lap housing joints. Simple, strong, neat, and very quick. The individual pieces could be glued for a permanent fixture, or fitted unglued if the wine rack is likely to be moved in the future. There would be limits to the depth regarding strength, but in your photo there seem to be two separate sets, front and back, so depth shouldn't be a problem.

This is the set-up:

joints.jpg

Hope this is the sort of thing you were asking about.

Des

A number of years ago I did a router workshop with Richard Vaughan. He showed us pics of a very similar wine rack. The half lap joints is exactly what he did.

My guess is that this was made using half lap joints.

You might want to take a look at the grain patten and you might see that these are continuous thus strengthening the idea that half lap joins were used in construction.

Originally Posted by Des.K.

Hi GraysMill and welcome.

I'd approach this the same way as when making shoji - interlocking half-lap housing joints. Simple, strong, neat, and very quick. The individual pieces could be glued for a permanent fixture, or fitted unglued if the wine rack is likely to be moved in the future. There would be limits to the depth regarding strength, but in your photo there seem to be two separate sets, front and back, so depth shouldn't be a problem.

This is the set-up:

joints.jpg

Hope this is the sort of thing you were asking about.

Des

Thanks Des and everyone else for responding. I put my dowelling idea in the bin after you all guessed them same thing! hahaha I went back to my fathers to confirm yesterday by feeling behind the rack to see if the other peice of wood was unbroken and indeed this is the case.

Thanks for giving me the name of the joint also, I'll now do some research using the correct keywords but the concept seems logical. Just need to be accurate if I can do anything near our old carpenters job

Thanks again!

Hi Guys, just thought I would share the finished product of your help. Took me a while to get stuck into it but made it over the last 2 weeks. I dont think I coulda done it very well without creating a design on SketchUp first, it really helped me calculate where to cut out the joints. I'm sure you guys have a tool to make an exact cut, but I had to do with a cheap drop saw, one eye shut and my tongue poking out! hahaha still some aesthetics to do for the room but this thing feels real solid.

2014-11-05 19.49.47.jpg

ps. it holds exactly 181 bottles I think Ill have to do another on the opposite wall.......
pps. again thanks everyone.

It is good to see the results and have the feedback from your original question. Many do not bother.

Nice job there GM!!! One to be proud of!!

I think you have done an excellent job.

cool

good work

Well done!

I am sure that once you worked out angles and where to cut it was easy.
Thank you for showing us the results.