Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 36
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Perth W.A
    Posts
    720

    Default

    Just had a thought on this,
    You could use regular twist drills to remove most of the material,drilling random holes to the depth you need.
    Provided you leave sufficient timber around the point the spur of the forsner bit cut into.Then using the fostner bit should be easy as you now have far less material to drill out.

  2. # ADS
    Google Adsense Advertisement
    Join Date
    Always
    Location
    Advertising world
    Posts
    Many





     
  3. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    Monty
    perhaps using a router and template is the way to go about it
    That would be a very slow way of doing it but it would work

    Here is a big version done that way.



    And an ever bigger one
    Back to milling at last-dish4-jpg

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mark david View Post
    Just had a thought on this,
    You could use regular twist drills to remove most of the material,drilling random holes to the depth you need.
    Provided you leave sufficient timber around the point the spur of the forsner bit cut into.Then using the fostner bit should be easy as you now have far less material to drill out.
    There would be a risk of the bit grabbing here and there and it could even break up the workpiece.

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    How are you sharpening the carbide?
    Used a triangle file for the teeth and a flat bastard file for the face of the chippers.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    . . . . that explains it all. You've taken the edge off by chipping away at the wood at high speed. The carbide doesn't have that good an edge to start with and even though its harder than HSS it will still eventually dull. Combine that with the wood drying out.
    This is very possible.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    You do need a powerful drill (1HP) and it has to be dome at low speed. When I drill the 52 mm size I use 160 RPM.
    Holding the bankia pods without destroying the exterior is tricky. I use those sticky woven look rubber mats that are also good for taking lids off. I warp the pods in the mat and put them into the drill vice - it works most of the time.
    Yes a better drill press would no doubt make life easier, but that is a purchase for another day when i have more room. Holding the blanks has been relatively easy actually. Took a picture as it will make more sense. Two pieces of wood angled so the gap narrows and i wedge the blank in there and then hold it from the other side with a third piece of wood.

    WP_20150224_006.jpg

  6. #20
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,648

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Monty85 View Post
    Used a triangle file for the teeth and a flat bastard file for the face of the chippers.
    You mean a steel file on Tungsten Carbide? If so then apart from any speed or press problems, that's like trying to sharpen a chisel with a piece of hardwood. Just ain't gonna happen. What will happen is that the file will be buggered, and the TC, if anything, will be blunter than it was.

    You need a diamond file for TC (or CBN when they get around to using it for things other than wheels).
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Perth W.A
    Posts
    720

    Default

    Hi Bob, might possibly happen althought think it should work.
    I have occasionally cut overlapping forstner holes with no noticable problem provided the bit remains firmly centred.

    I certainly agree on some of the low powered bench top drill presses just dont have the power for using the larger forstner bits, I had this problem myself and eventually picked up a radial arm drill press with 3/4HP motor which copes with most things wood and metal cutting.

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    There would be a risk of the bit grabbing here and there and it could even break up the workpiece.

  8. #22
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,648

    Default

    Just an addition to my previous comment: (and based upon using a steel file on TC). Because the carbide is so hard, to make any impression at all upon it with a steel file you would have to be using a lot of force, and this will affect your filing action. That will more than likely mean that you have changed the geometry of the teeth, and they won't cut properly - ever again. I wouldn't even try to sharpen HSS with a steel file.

    There are two things to note about files: they are usually around 65 Rc hardness (about 940 Vickers hardness), and there isn't a single decent steel file available in Australia (or most of the rest of the world for that matter). Vallorbe (now Glardon) precision files may be the exception but they are reasonably hard to obtain here as far as I know (although their needle files are easy enough to get here). The garden variety files available in general hardware stores are without exception premium rubbish.

    By comparison TC is ~2300-2400 Vickers hardness, but i guess that can vary (but not down to <940 Vickers).
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    68
    Posts
    12,006

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    How are you sharpening the carbide?
    Quote Originally Posted by Monty85 View Post
    Used a triangle file for the teeth and a flat bastard file for the face of the chippers.
    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    You mean a steel file on Tungsten Carbide? If so then apart from any speed or press problems, that's like trying to sharpen a chisel with a piece of hardwood. Just ain't gonna happen. What will happen is that the file will be buggered, and the TC, if anything, will be blunter than it was.

    You need a diamond file for TC (or CBN when they get around to using it for things other than wheels).


    you could use a set of diamond paddle sharpeners
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  10. #24
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,648

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    you could have used a set of diamond paddle sharpeners
    Yebbut it's too late now. The bits are buggered beyond repair.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  11. #25
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,648

    Default

    This is what I would use for drilling end grain:
    Colt MaxiCut Plus forstners (note the "Plus") and I believe you can get them on Amazon too. I placed an order for some saw files from Dieter Schmidt Fine tools and the postage was very reasonable indeed. Pity the files were crap (as anticipated).

    Pics can be found here (the first five)

    They are German design, now produced in France (presumably from European steel), High Speed Steel at the business end, and most importantly have a retractable pilot drill (a brad point drill). The pilot will go from zero to about 40-50mm extension (zero being that you can remove the pilot drill after the hole has been sufficiently started).

    I only have one of these, a 20mm, and it's excellent, but I haven't tried to do what you want to do. They were designed for drilling at higher angles than a regular Maxicut can (the pilot drill allows that).
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    27,756

    Default

    As others have said, if you have been making an impression on them with a file they aint either HSS or Carbite.
    If you have been making an impression on the Forstner bit then it may just be plain moderately hard carbon tool steel and that would also explain why they have gone blunt so rapidly.

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    You mean a steel file on Tungsten Carbide? If so then apart from any speed or press problems, that's like trying to sharpen a chisel with a piece of hardwood. Just ain't gonna happen. What will happen is that the file will be buggered, and the TC, if anything, will be blunter than it was. You need a diamond file for TC (or CBN when they get around to using it for things other than wheels).
    CBN shouldn't be used to sharpen TC anyway as it will damage the CBN.

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Sydney, Australia
    Posts
    35

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FenceFurniture View Post
    You mean a steel file on Tungsten Carbide? If so then apart from any speed or press problems, that's like trying to sharpen a chisel with a piece of hardwood. Just ain't gonna happen. What will happen is that the file will be buggered, and the TC, if anything, will be blunter than it was.

    You need a diamond file for TC (or CBN when they get around to using it for things other than wheels).
    Actually the bits are just carbon steel (ones you get from Carbatec) - I misread the carbide as carbon in the earlier post and thought that's what was meant.

    Not sure if that changes anything of not...

  14. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    3,543

    Default

    In my experience as a wood carver, I get to do a fair bit of end-grain carving.
    All I have learned is that:
    a) many, many woods go from cheese to bone as they dry out. A few don't, but they become
    quite brittle/splintery instead.
    b) the anatomy of the woody cell walls in branches is not the same as in a vertical
    main stem/tree trunk. In short, branch wood is THE WORST of a bad lot.

    Can you assign any ages or tree sources to the good and the bad?

  15. #29
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,648

    Default

    Ok, carbon, not carbide. So going back to your OP:
    Quote Originally Posted by Monty85 View Post
    But now no matter how much I sharpen the bits I just can't seem to make it past much more than 1mm and i just burn the wood.
    If the wood is burning then there is every chance that the bits are now blue, which means in the case of carbon steel that their temper is buggered. This will also mean that the bits are buggered beyond repair (depending upon how extensive the blue is). Bluing of HSS is nowhere near the same problem because it tempers at a much higher temperature.

    I think you need to source some new and different bits. I'll try to do an experiment today with my Maxicut Plus in end grain. I may have some scrap She Oak which will give it a pretty tough test.
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

  16. #30
    FenceFurniture's Avatar
    FenceFurniture is offline The prize lies beneath - hidden in full view
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    1017m up in Katoomba, NSW
    Posts
    10,648

    Default

    Ok, I've just this minute finished drilling a hole into the end grain of some Spotted Gum with the 20mm MaxiCut Plus forstner bit. Not sure how that compares to your pods, but it's pretty hard (Janka rating 11).

    Not using a drill press, just a battery drill. Had the pilot bit out to about 30mm, and drilled in 30mm depth with the forstner. As expected, the flutes in the pilot bit kept on jamming up so I had to withdraw and flick out the compressed chip every now and then (have to do this with fluted bits in most Aussie hardwoods anyway).

    The hole was clean and very little, if any, evidence of wandering (remembering it was freehand), no burning of the timber. The HSS forstner was still bright and shiny.

    There was a tiny bit of smoke when the pilot bit needed cleaning (the best indication that cleaning is required).

    I didn't time how long it took to drill in 30mm, but it was fine - maybe 90-120 seconds?
    Regards, FenceFurniture

    COLT DRILLS GROUP BUY
    Jan-Feb 2019 Click to send me an email

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. 8mm Forstner bits
    By Ronalene in forum FORUMS INFO, HELP, DISCUSSION & FEEDBACK
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 25th September 2014, 05:10 PM
  2. forstner versus saw tooth and end grain
    By hughie in forum WOODTURNING - GENERAL
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 15th September 2014, 10:29 AM
  3. Forstner Bits
    By DSEL74 in forum WOODWORK - GENERAL
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 17th July 2013, 08:07 PM
  4. Forstner bits
    By Roger Peine in forum HAND TOOLS - POWERED
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 26th September 2001, 09:55 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •