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7th July 2006, 06:16 PM #16
By gluing the scrap back on the inside half of the new mitre is still part of the original stock. The only part glued on is the outside half of the new mitre so the joint should still have good strength
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7th July 2006, 06:25 PM #17
my 2.2c worth,
A scarf joint would be strong enough for a box, but the join line would be obvious no matter how careful you are. Even if you put it at the back, boxes get picked up and admired, so it would be seen.
If it were me, I would put an extra piece as a feature in the middle or at a third or two thirds the length, whatever suits the design. The cross section of the extra piece could be bigger than the sides thickness and the side pieces housed into this - making the glued up side stronger. Assuming the lid design could allow for a thicker bit???
Sorry, I don't have a way of doing a drawing to illustrate at present.
This is what makes woodworking exciting - or is it just me???
Good luck regardless.
ChrisIf you can't laugh at yourself, you could be missing out on the joke of the century - E.Everidge
the Banksiaman
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7th July 2006, 06:31 PM #18
mmm. halving and rejoining the side with a contrasting timber could look like a design highlight. The perfect solution, if you can't hide it make it stand out!!
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7th July 2006, 06:39 PM #19
What BoB38S said, I spent too long composing my reply...
ChrisIf you can't laugh at yourself, you could be missing out on the joke of the century - E.Everidge
the Banksiaman
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7th July 2006, 06:54 PM #20
Way too hard in my view and any movement of the timber creates a gap.
Do what I did. Buy a Gifkins jig and forget about mitre corners on boxes.If at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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7th July 2006, 07:04 PM #21.
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Mitered corners look heaps more classy on quality boxes. A gap only appears with miters if the sides are backsawn, and rarely if qtr sawn is used
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7th July 2006, 07:54 PM #22Originally Posted by LignumIf at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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7th July 2006, 08:03 PM #23.
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Originally Posted by Gumby
I must admit though, i seen the Gifkins at the last wood show and was mightily impressed. Makes very nice and clean joins
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7th July 2006, 08:07 PM #24Originally Posted by Lignum
Just teasing mate!
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7th July 2006, 09:11 PM #25Originally Posted by LignumIf at first you don't succeed, give something else a go. Life is far too short to waste time trying.
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7th July 2006, 09:18 PM #26
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7th July 2006, 09:25 PM #27UnPlugged
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Originally Posted by echnidna
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7th July 2006, 09:37 PM #28
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8th July 2006, 12:40 AM #29
My 2c.
I reckon if you're going to glue a piece on, then cut the mitre the right way, the best way would be to butt joint it, drill through the end of the now-longer side & glue in dowels that will span the butt joint. The mitre could then be cut the correct way, and the ends of the dowels will be hidden inside the mitred corner.
This way would be no more or less obvious that the short "scarf" joint, but wouldn't require epoxy and would be simpler to align & glue up.
Cheers...................Sean
The beatings will continue until morale improves.
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9th July 2006, 01:02 PM #30Member
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Thanks for all the help guys. I didn't have any nice wood to put a panel in the middle of it, and I was in a rush, so I expoxy'ed it, and it worked fine. I routed the sides yesterday and the joint is holding up fine, it's a bit ugly but not a big deal.
Thanks again
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