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  1. #1
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    Default Help for internal door construction

    I am contemplating putting in a rather small internal door for a Pantry. The door width is only 620.

    However, I am pretty sure that it might be a load bearing wall (the ceiling joists are perpendicular to this wall)

    Do I have to put in a Header to support studs above the proposed door?..King and Jack studs? Or is this width (620...probably 665 including frame) ok without a supporting Header?

    Or should I get an expert to do this job?

    Many thanks for any advice

    Bill

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  3. #2
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    Default

    Questions:
    1 Is it a 2 storey house, will require advice from a builder after an inspection

    2 If not, have a look in the roof and see if there are any load bearing roof timbers immediately above where the door is going, if no load bearing timbers or beams, ok go ahead

    3 If it is a struss roof and there is an approximate 20mm to 25mm gape between the truss and the top of the wall plate, no problem, go ahead
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by rwbuild View Post
    Questions:
    1 Is it a 2 storey house, will require advice from a builder after an inspection

    2 If not, have a look in the roof and see if there are any load bearing roof timbers immediately above where the door is going, if no load bearing timbers or beams, ok go ahead

    3 If it is a struss roof and there is an approximate 20mm to 25mm gape between the truss and the top of the wall plate, no problem, go ahead
    Thank you for your reply.

    1. No, it is an old 96 year old single story house.

    2. The ceiling joists are running perpendicular to the wall and appear to be resting on this wall...so I presumed it was load bearing

    3. It is a truss roof but I am not sure about the gap.

    Since it is only a 620 wide door I was hopeing I might get away with a simpler frame than one for a load bearing wall. If the latter should I get a builder in?

    Many thanks for your help

    Bill

  5. #4
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    Default

    Loadbearing or not I would think the framing required to replace a cut stud would be almost identical over that width. The only difference to the process might be the temporary supports required while you take out the original stud in a seriously load bearing wall.

    It might be better to ask for advice about header sizes etc over in the Renovate forums. I wouldn't just remove a stud in any wall.

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by bil1 View Post
    Thank you for your reply.

    1. No, it is an old 96 year old single story house.

    2. The ceiling joists are running perpendicular to the wall and appear to be resting on this wall...so I presumed it was load bearing

    3. It is a truss roof but I am not sure about the gap.

    Since it is only a 620 wide door I was hopeing I might get away with a simpler frame than one for a load bearing wall. If the latter should I get a builder in?

    Many thanks for your help

    Bill
    No its not a truss roof, but if the house is 96 yrs old, the chances are the top plate could be 4" x 3" (102 x 76) and even if it is only 100 x 50 it will either be #1 clear oregon or hardwood, so you will be able to put a door in between the studs without any problems
    The person who never made a mistake never made anything

    Cheers
    Ray

  7. #6
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    Thanks very much for this advice.

    I hope I am not pushing my luck here, but I'd like to ask (what is probably a very basic) question:

    I have noted in diagrams the terms King and Jack or Trimmer studs. If I put these in (which I think allows me to put a header on top?)....can the King stud simply nail/attach to the wooden floor? OR should I put in a plate that sits on this floor and attach them to it? OR do I need to go down under the floor and find a joist and hopefully find that it is directly under where the stud goes?

    Thank you for your help ....and your patience!

    Bill

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bil1 View Post
    Thanks very much for this advice.

    I hope I am not pushing my luck here, but I'd like to ask (what is probably a very basic) question:

    I have noted in diagrams the terms King and Jack or Trimmer studs. If I put these in (which I think allows me to put a header on top?)....can the King stud simply nail/attach to the wooden floor? OR should I put in a plate that sits on this floor and attach them to it? OR do I need to go down under the floor and find a joist and hopefully find that it is directly under where the stud goes?

    Thank you for your help ....and your patience!

    Bill
    Any suggestions please?

  9. #8
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    There would be no need for a structural header if the roof is not supported directly above the door opening.
    The doorframe would not be required to carry load and would only be serving as fixing for door and architraves so it wouldn't matter if studs ran to the floor. Ceiling joists running over a standard door opening do not require a structural header.
    If there is a roof support beam or strut footed on the top plate above the proposed door opening, you will need a structural head above the door.
    There are other options, but they get a bit complicated. If you do find a roof load bearing member above your proposed door, let me know and we can look at options.

  10. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by rustynail View Post
    There would be no need for a structural header if the roof is not supported directly above the door opening.
    The doorframe would not be required to carry load and would only be serving as fixing for door and architraves so it wouldn't matter if studs ran to the floor. Ceiling joists running over a standard door opening do not require a structural header.
    If there is a roof support beam or strut footed on the top plate above the proposed door opening, you will need a structural head above the door.
    There are other options, but they get a bit complicated. If you do find a roof load bearing member above your proposed door, let me know and we can look at options.
    Many thanks for this advice Rustynail! I think I have enough confidence now to begin the work...thanks very much to you guys at the Woodwork Forum. I really appreciate your help.

    I'll probably be back with more questions late on into the project!

    Many thanks

    Bil

  11. #10
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    Default

    I'm trying to figure out what all that was about...a question? An opinion piece? Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead of reviving one that's 9 years old?

  12. #11
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    Default

    Also, this is primarily an Australian forum, we build houses differently here. Especially roofing. No ply, no shingles.
    Im sure we'd love to help but i think a us based Reno forum will be far more valuable...

  13. #12
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    Regarding OSB versus CDX prices you could check the Home Depot or Lowes websites. All material has gone up like crazy, and prices bear little resemblance to 2019. You may wish to revisit your desire to replace all the wood. If there are structurally sound sections you might be actually getting a poorer roof using new materials.

    Since we don’t use shingles down here I can’t comment. When I was a boy the rule of thumb was the heavier the better.

    You might get a lot of better replies from U.S. builders who know your products by asking on a forum such as Fine Homebuilding
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

  14. #13
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    I copied a couple of sentences from that post and did a search. Word for word copy of a post on an American RV forum from 2015 (which was deleted as spam), so I'm sure you'll forgive me for not having a bar of it.

  15. #14
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    What an odd thing to post then. What would be the point? I took it as someone who needed a gentle nudge in the right direction.
    It's all part of the service here at The House of Pain™

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