Help please! VFD SCM Braked Motor

**DomAU** · 26th April 2022, 12:50 PM

Originally Posted by hurcorh

The Aigner is great for jointer outfeed imo.

These don't have to be inherently flat and stiff so the same degree as a cast iron jointer surface as long as they aren't causing the board to lift, the main area for accuracy is your main tables being flat, these tables are just there for added support rather than reference surfaces. In saying that, with my straight edge I can't see any light under it so that works enough for me. I mounted it similar to Brian in this thread so that was the hardest bit.
Aigner Extensions - How do they adjust?
Aigner tables

When I added the bar to my bandsaw to use the same aigner table, i put two set screws in the top surface of the bar that I can adjust up/down to get it perfectly level with the cast iron bandsaw surface.

here is some DIY inspiration for you if you want to go down that route. Hammer A3-31 Custom infeed/outfeed tables

Craftsman hardware here in Australia stock the Aigner tables. Price has gone up a bit since I got mine but that is happening everywhere.

Hmm, interesting. The Aigner tables are the cheapest option and they look good -but they also look the least robust and I don't want to regret not buying the Felder and then have to buy the Felder on top of the Aigner lol. I could get two Aigners delivered for less than one felder extrusion.

I just priced a 1m length of 160x40 heavy extrusion from modular components and it runs at $250- they also have a 240 x 40 which could be a nice upgrade but that is $420- per m. By the timeI buy the few other bit I suspect i'd be looking at 300-350 (or 470-520) for the DIY option vs $400 for Aigner (or two for $650) or Felder at $800-

Better decide quickly as I need something soon and that's probably why i'm leaning away from Felder as it's at least 2 months away.

**BobL** · 26th April 2022, 01:52 PM

If they don’t need to be dead flat what about a piece of 12 or 16 mm solid Al plate? There will be a cutting charge but it should still be cheaper than extrusion. I reckon even 10 would be ok but this is usually guillotined which will bend the plate so if you do gif or this size make sure they don’t guillotine it. If you get a single piece you can cut it with a fine toothed blade in a TS. I used Al plate for a fence and it’s been just fine.

**DomAU** · 26th April 2022, 02:05 PM

Originally Posted by BobL

If they don’t need to be dead flat what about a piece of 12 or 16 mm solid Al plate? There will be a cutting charge but it should still be cheaper than extrusion. I reckon even 10 would be ok but this is usually guillotined which will bend the plate so if you do gif or this size make sure they don’t guillotine it. If you get a single piece you can cut it with a fine toothed blade in a TS. I used Al plate for a fence and it’s been just fine.

In my experience aluminium plate is rarely flat, also with prices going the way they are i'm not even sure 16mm plate would be cheaper - and it wouldn't be as stiff as extrusion either. Worth considering though, thanks.

**havabeer69** · 26th April 2022, 02:57 PM

Use the jointer to make multiple flat pieces of timber?

**Chris Parks** · 26th April 2022, 04:14 PM

I would need a lot of convincing that an extension on the infeed is even necessary.

**DomAU** · 26th April 2022, 05:24 PM

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

I would need a lot of convincing that an extension on the infeed is even necessary.

Agree, infeed is less important but still helps to minimise twist/bow etc.

I ended up ordering the bits and pieces i'll need, sans the actual mounting bar and will DIY as per the linked thread. Cost was $399-.

Cheers, Dom

**Jar944** · 12th May 2022, 12:16 AM

Originally Posted by DomAU

Pulled the motor out. Very light and small for a 5kW motor - 19.8kg only and very compact. Smaller and much lighter than the 3kW 3 phase motor used in my dust collector.

The brake air gap adjustment screw is an allen bolt at the top of the motor/fan. If I back this out the brake appears to disengage completely a couple of turns out. The torque on the bolt doesn't appear to change and still feels like it's acting against springs. I can spin the motor freely at this point.

Not sure if there is any risk leaving it and running it like this, or if I should undo things completely and see if the brake can be removed. I'm a little worried about undoing it and then not being able to get things back together!

Attachment 510186

Attachment 510187

Cheers, Dom

Attachment 510186

My casolin F90 spindle moulder has the same setup. I just increased the air gap to let it free wheel. It's been fine like that for a couple years now.
20200426_223135.jpg

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